MF32 Loader (Can't Source Reservoir O-Ring) Gasket Maker Ok to Use?

[lkell93]

Hi All,

I'm changing the fluid on my "new to me" MF32 Loader. Whoever changed the fluid last appears to have used silicone in place of O-ring (Part # 359111X1) which seals the filter can to the resivoir.

I saw another post here on YT that said it's a 4-7/8" ID X 1/8" O-Ring.

Would it be ok to utilize some Permatex Ultra black (sparingly) to get this seal made, so that I don't have to go out hunting for an O-Ring that will fit this particular application?

Or would these O-Rings work (see link below) (I don't know much about O-Rings, so though I'd ask some more knowledgeable folks here). https://www.grainger.com/product/O-Ring-249-1KLH7

 

[brooktre]

The permatex or the Grainger o-ring may work. I've found Wix catalogs online that have listings for gaskets. For my 102 Loader, I found that a 15039 gasket will fit my canister. It is a flat gasket - not an o-ring.

 

[lkell93]

Well, come to find out, the O-Ring I thought I needed was still up in the canister mount recess.

So now I'm faced with a decision, reassemble using this existing o ring (looks to be in good shape) or use the existing O-Ring in conjunction with a small bead of Permatex black gasket maker? The gasket maker would have to be applied in a way that would have it right up against the current O-Ring, but some of the "push out" would bond with the metal lip of the internal portion of the canister flange (see purple arrow).

I believe that the reason whomever last changed this oil used silicone in conjunction with the O-Ring is due to a small crack that was repaired/welded in the canister, where there is also a small chip out of the metal mating surface on the top of the canister.

 

[hymie2lt]

359111x1 part number subs up to 70923822. Still available from Massey

 

[stevieb49829]

Well, come to find out, the O-Ring I thought I needed was still up in the canister mount recess.

So now I'm faced with a decision, reassemble using this existing o ring (looks to be in good shape) or use the existing O-Ring in conjunction with a small bead of Permatex black gasket maker? The gasket maker would have to be applied in a way that would have it right up against the current O-Ring, but some of the "push out" would bond with the metal lip of the internal portion of the canister flange (see purple arrow).

I believe that the reason whomever last changed this oil used silicone in conjunction with the O-Ring is due to a small crack that was repaired/welded in the canister, where there is also a small chip out of the metal mating surface on the top of the canister.

Take a small pick and work the gasket out of the groove. Inspect it closely, and if it is smooth and soft yet, reinstall it. Watch carefully for anything up in the groove under the seal. Any obstruction there will show as an imprint on the seal and could be causing a leak. Then make sure the canister mating surface is smooth also. Sealant is not necessary on that gasket. Some people are prone to overkill when sealing things up. Did it leak? I don't see the small chip you mentioned. Steve

 

[lkell93]

Take a small pick and work the gasket out of the groove. Inspect it closely, and if it is smooth and soft yet, reinstall it. Watch carefully for anything up in the groove under the seal. Any obstruction there will show as an imprint on the seal and could be causing a leak. Then make sure the canister mating surface is smooth also. I don't see the small chip you mentioned. Steve

Thanks for the advice, the chip(s) are actually on the canister's mating surface, not the canister housing that was in my picture.

 

[stevieb49829]

Well, come to find out, the O-Ring I thought I needed was still up in the canister mount recess.

So now I'm faced with a decision, reassemble using this existing o ring (looks to be in good shape) or use the existing O-Ring in conjunction with a small bead of Permatex black gasket maker? The gasket maker would have to be applied in a way that would have it right up against the current O-Ring, but some of the "push out" would bond with the metal lip of the internal portion of the canister flange (see purple arrow).

I believe that the reason whomever last changed this oil used silicone in conjunction with the O-Ring is due to a small crack that was repaired/welded in the canister, where there is also a small chip out of the metal mating surface on the top of the canister.

Take a small pick and work the gasket out of the groove. Inspect it closely, and if it is smooth and soft yet, reinstall it. Watch carefully for anything up in the groove under the seal. Any obstruction there will show as an imprint on the seal and could be causing a leak. Then make sure the canister mating surface is smooth also. I don't see the small chip you mentioned. Steve

Take a small pick and work the gasket out of the groove. Inspect it closely, and if it is smooth and soft yet, reinstall it. Watch carefully for anything up in the groove under the seal. Any obstruction there will show as an imprint on the seal and could be causing a leak. Then make sure the canister mating surface is smooth also. Sealant is not necessary on that gasket. Some people are prone to overkill when sealing things up. Did it leak? I don't see the small chip you mentioned. Steve

You can also sand down the lip of the canister on a really flat surface, like a cast iron table saw. A few thousands of material removed will not interfere with the way the canister fits. The Previous Owner may have noticed, like you did that the gasket was "missing" and applied the silicone.

 

[lkell93]

The chip happens to be right about where the canister had a crack repaired...if I had to guess, I'd say they are probably about 1/32" deep.

Before I booger up the o-ring that is currently in there with RTV...I ordered a #249 o-ring that should be here tomorrow, as I believe it should be the same size as what is on there currently, I'm going to check fitment though before reinstalling the canister. That way if I need to ever pull it off again to address a leak, I'll have a backup o-ring to install and can pitch the current one if the Permatex ends up bonding to it.

 

[stevieb49829]

The chip happens to be right about where the canister had a crack repaired...if I had to guess, I'd say they are probably about 1/32" deep.

Before I booger up the o-ring that is currently in there with RTV...I ordered a #249 o-ring that should be here tomorrow, as I believe it should be the same size as what is on there currently, I'm going to check fitment though before reinstalling the canister. That way if I need to ever pull it off again to address a leak, I'll have a backup o-ring to install and can pitch the current one if the Permatex ends up bonding to it.

If the chips look like they will leak, clean that edge of the canister really well with a solvent like lacquer thinner or carb cleaner and fill them with 2 part JB Weld epoxy. Then sand down the JB with a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface until you have a smooth mating surface. That area is not subjected to a lot of pressure usually, so the JB will work well as a chip filler, IF you get all the oils off it before you glue. That's a much better fix than filling them up with a sealer.

 

[lkell93]

If the chips look like they will leak, clean that edge of the canister really well with a solvent like lacquer thinner or carb cleaner and fill them with 2 part JB Weld epoxy. Then sand down the JB with a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface until you have a smooth mating surface. That area is not subjected to a lot of pressure usually, so the JB will work well as a chip filler, IF you get all the oils off it before you glue. That's a much better fix than filling them up with a sealer.

Certainly worth a shot...come to think of it, I have a partial stick of the 2 part epoxy JB tank weld putty. I wonder if that would work if I just took a small amount and filled in the chips?

I sealed some welch plugs on an old Quadrajet carburetor a few years back, and the stuff cured really well, and was sandable.

Otherwise I can run into town to get the standard 2 part liquid epoxy if that would fit better in this application.

 

[stevieb49829]

Certainly worth a shot...come to think of it, I have a partial stick of the 2 part epoxy JB tank weld putty. I wonder if that would work if I just took a small amount and filled in the chips?

I sealed some welch plugs on an old Quadrajet carburetor a few years back, and the stuff cured really well, and was sandable.

Otherwise I can run into town to get the standard 2 part liquid epoxy if that would fit better in this application.

The putty might work if it isn't really old and hard. Nothing lost if the repairs fall out. Assuming this is a cast iron canister? Cast iron can hold a lot of oils in its porosity. Scrub it with an old tooth brush and a good solvent, several times. Then let the solvents dry off, or heat with a heat gun or propane torch. After cool, work the putty in good, and check it when it's hardened to see if you can pry it out of the chips. Then sand it down. steve