Model A rear axle

[Tstoner]

I started a restoration project on my 44 A A couple months ago. After I got the rear wheels off I noticed a lot of play in the right axle. Figured the bearings where shot or possibly the nut came loose on the bull gear. After taking the rear cover off I tried to tighten the nut down to the manual recommended .001 - .004 end play. By the time I did that the hole for the cotter pin was past the castle nut. I then decided to just replace the bearings, seal, and felts. After reinstalling everything today about half of the hole is out past the castle nut. I triple checked everything I am not missing any parts. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm pretty sure the nut won't move but it just doesn't seem right.

 

[Watthour]

A "band-aid" might be installing a hardened washer for spacing. It's probably better than trying to drill another hole for the cotter.

One question is whether the new bearing cup is the same depth as the original.

 

[Tstoner]

(quoted from post at 15:29:20 01/22/23)
A "band-aid" might be installing a hardened washer for spacing. It's probably better than trying to drill another hole for the cotter.

One question is whether the new bearing cup is the same depth as the original.

I agree I considered making a washer to go behind the castle nut. The problem is I shouldn't have to and was wondering if anyone has experienced this. I should mention I didn't change the bearing race due to them looking in perfect condition.

 

[David from Kansas]

Not an expert on anything but I have replaced many bearings in my life time. My uneducated guess would be that even though
the bearings looked shiny and all, they had enough wear that they cause the castle nut to be drawn down further than it should
be due to the bearing wear.

 

[used red MN]

I am with David, ever his first sentence is what I would say. I am guessing that a shoulder on the axle has worn more than you thought, so it does what it is doing. I understand wanting something repaired nearly close to stock and in the correct manner. The truth is the tractor will not go anywhere close to the miles that were put on the bearings you took out, maybe if you are a very avid tractor rider. But even then the strain on it will be far less along the way. Get a washer in there an go on. Might check into what is available for washers in heavy duty truck hubs.

 

[Watthour]

As a variation of this, I've been in wheel drive planetaries (RR gear reducers) several dozens of times for rebuild. They use vary large tapered rollers due to the vehicle weight being borne by the output shaft. They use a shaft lock nut and lock washer to set hold the bearings in place. The outer bearing has a spacer in the bore outboard of the outer race (cup) to set preload, surface ground to fit for every rebuild.

The short version of the story is that I wouldn't be too concerned about using a hardened washer to take up the slack, since even on a bad day an older Deere A is not likely to see anything like the load of a Cat 994 or even a 950.

 

[Tstoner]

(quoted from post at 21:51:21 01/22/23)
As a variation of this, I've been in wheel drive planetaries (RR gear reducers) several dozens of times for rebuild. They use vary large tapered rollers due to the vehicle weight being borne by the output shaft. They use a shaft lock nut and lock washer to set hold the bearings in place. The outer bearing has a spacer in the bore outboard of the outer race (cup) to set preload, surface ground to fit for every rebuild.

The short version of the story is that I wouldn't be too concerned about using a hardened washer to take up the slack, since even on a bad day an older Deere A is not likely to see anything like the load of a Cat 994 or even a 950.

I appreciate the quick responses guys. I guess I was just overthinking all of this . This is my first tractor restoration and I have to keep reminding myself that I'm working on an 80 year old tractor not a high performance race car

 

[Mark-Ia]

The correct way to make a castellated nut to fit the holes correctly is to grind off the backside of the nut.

 

[J.Wondergem]

(quoted from post at 17:30:09 01/23/23) The correct way to make a castellated nut to fit the holes correctly is to grind off the backside of the nut.

Maybe I took this wrong. I thought the nut was too short a half of the hole.

 

[Watthour]

That's also the way I interpreted the original post, thus the suggestion of a hardened washer.