jon f mn

Well-known Member
Finally got time to install the turbo on the little Kubota I put in my skidloader. Was a big job and harder than it looked. To start I couldn't just bolt the turbo to the manifold because there wasn't room, so I had to make this elbow setup.


cvphoto144176.jpg


The turbo to engine side was hard too as I couldn't find any light pipe that would turn sharp enough. And I didn't want to use plastic or rubber because it might get hot. So that was also pipe. To get things to fit right I had to start the. Threaded then welded those together.


cvphoto144177.jpg

St

The turbo came with a kit of plates that could be drilled and tapped fo fittings, but for a but 2 there wasn't room for that, so we had to cut the threaded part off the fittings and weld them on.


cvphoto144178.jpg


The only one we had issues with was the oil return, that one had pin holes in the weld. We had a terrible time getting those closed up. Must have ground and welded the one side 6 or 8 times.

Also did some changes to the water inlet on the motor. The angle the pipe came out of the motor made it hard to keep the hoses off the belts. So I made up the copper pipe setup that wil hopefully resolve that issue.


cvphoto144179.jpg


I also added a gage set that monitors egt, boost pressure and oil temp. When it's all together it fits pretty well.



cvphoto144180.jpg


cvphoto144181.jpg


cvphoto144182.jpg


Has a lot more power now and make everything work better. Does smoke a lot, I'm thinking I might have to advance the timing a little. So far i havent found much info on how to do that. It does say something about shims, but not where thet are or if you add or take out.

Shows 7 psi of boost and exhaust temperatures have been as high as 1000 deg so far. I'm surprised at how much extra power it has with only that low boost pressure. I'll keep tweaking it a bit to get things set right.
 
The 'CAT' diesel promoted as the big power in the Ferris zero turn mower was actually a Shibaura. I worked on one which had been badly abused. It appeared to be built much like a Kubota. This engine was built unlike anything I had ever seen. The gasket set came with multiple different thickness gaskets to go under the in line injection pump. Fortunately there was no issue there, and I put it back together just the way it was. Wouldn't that change fuel amount, as much as timing? As I recall, the pump pistons operated off from lobes on the camshaft.
 
I can't find much info on it, but it say fuel feed is cha get but is controlled by a screw in front. So it may change that, but then you would readjust it with the screw. But I can't find anything on where that is yet.
 
That engine has a PFR style injection pump which uses a separate camshaft inside engine to operate the pump tappets/plungers. There are shims under the pump to change the timing, but the stock shims USUALLY work best. Removing shims will ADVANCE the timing, and adding will RETARD the timing. Shims will NOT change fuel rate at all, thats done on engine governor that controls the pump fuel RACK position. A good engine/turbo match will have the EXHAUST pressure about 1-2 PSI BELOW what the intake pressure is at full rated load. If anything I'd try ADDING a thin shim to RETARD the timing a bit which will make EXHAUST temp slightly hotter to spin the turbo faster to increase the intake pressure. When timing is advanced it can COOL the exhaust which will slow the turbo, making less boost. A good match should have a very light exhaust haze to no smoke at all. The injectors may need cleaned, or tips replaced too if they don't seat correctly. Dripping injectors can cause excessive smoke too.
 
Thank you, I don't suppose you have a book with pics of where that is on the engine?
 
No sir, I don't. Most small diesels will have throttle lever stop screws for hi and lo speed, and the fuel screw if it has one in the front timing cover, usually and adjustment nut and a cap nut. Remove the cap nut and loosen the lock nut and give it a turn, some go out for more fuel, some go in so make a note of which way you tried first and see how it responds. If there are two SMALL nuts under the cap nut DO NOT tamper with them.
 
I have the fuel screw figured out. Thanks for that info tho. On case tractors those with turbo have the timing advanced a bit, so I thought I would try that with this one too. But it's OK as is.
 
Most late model diesels have timing set back, never advanced anymore. Some Cummins now run fine with 11-14 degrees BTDC and will lug like crazy instead of the 28-32 degrees years ago. Depends on the pump plunger size too, larger plungers will get the fuel into the chamber much faster than smaller plungers will.
 
I think it was last winter, the muffler and aluminum exhaust mounting boss on the transmission broke off on my dads RTV. We decided to put a turbo KIT on it. Wasnt too bad. I did most of the turbo stuff, had my dad do the injector pump adjustments since I didnt want it to be my fault it never ran again (has to be torn apart and shimmed).

The one day install turned into a couple days after my dad dropped a tiny spring in the injector pump (which the pump housing and engine block are one in the same). We had the oil pan off once or twice before we found that damn spring!

It ended up being a pretty neat project and does have a little more get up and go. Sounds pretty cool too!
 
Could you email those pics to me? I can't really read them like that. But that is what I need. Thank you
 
What's up with the shop, looks like you're working in a Laboratory? Nice work on the turbo.
 
That's my friend Doug's shop, heated to 65 degrees and everything as clean and nice as the floor. He had the mop out washing the floor as I was loading the loader afterwards.
 
Thought I would save money. Then I was in too deep, and more importantly, too stubborn to quit til I had it.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top