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New-to-me YM1500D with some issues and questions

Y

yzrmbsg-HT

Member
Hello all, been lurking here and there a d everywhere for quite some time, I own a 5 acre property in Central Arizona. I recently purchased what I believe to be one of the earliest "green" Yanmar YM1500D's.

I did a lot of research prior to purchasing any type of tractor (for the last year) and finally came across the right deal and had been saving for a while and pulled the trigger on this machine.

Bought it from a guy on Craigslist...previous owner said he owned the machine for "about 2 years", maintained it himself and stated "no leaks" and "low hours", both of which I knew couldn't be true with it being 40+ years old. I went and looked at it, went through all the basic functions, started it, loader up, down, curl, dump, 3 point up, down, etc... gave a once over, saw some leakage in the front knuckles, you could easily tell it had just been pressure washed, as whoever did it, missed ALL of the "under spots" that still had years of crud and goo. I negotiated a bit and loaded it up on the trailer.

I don't trust anyone that I ever buy anything used from... a habit of being burned in the past....so upon bringing the tractor home, I purchased all new fluids and filters, changed all fluids, oil, fuel, and air filters, and cleaned the suction screen (Supertech hydraulic/transmission and Delo 15/40). Flushed the radiator (too much antifreeze, and lots of rust, I know this because it overheated in about 10 minutes of driving around and playing after getting it off the trailer, which is why I think the guy I bought it from just "flipped" it and did not have it for the 2 years that he stated). He also was not familiar with most of the lever functions, PTO, diff lock, 4wd. Refilled with water only for now since I don't have to worry about it freezing.

Bonus-maybe, it came with the US version of 3 of the Hoye manuals with the 155D circled in permanent marker on the manuals...is the 1500D equivalent to the US model 155D?

Also came with a few parts on the tractor and stickers from Hoye...so at least I know somebody in it's history cared about it a little bit!

After all of that, it is running excellently, but, here are a few concerns/issues/questions.

1. Confirm that I have a "green", don't care green or red, just need to know for ordering parts.

2. Front knuckles appear to be leaking from the large seal that connects the upper/lower half, I've read this is common, any other common leaking spots in the front axles I need to worry about?

3. Out of all of the YM1500D pictures on the internet, I have seen 2, that do not have the twist knob between the legs, mine makes this 3 (which is why I think it is one of the earliest models made)?

4. Prior to doing some research AFTER I made a mistake that I didn't know that I had made.... the 3 point lever has a nut and bolt that friction holds it in place, I did not realize that lever needed to be moved forward just a bit to put it in "neutral" once it was raised, I then operated the loader with the 3 point lever "locked" in the up position. I don't know how long or how many times I did this, but I was moving dirt around for about 45 minutes before the 3ph and loader quit working altogether. I shut the machine down and began inspecting, I had no idea what happened or that I caused it to happen at the time. I noticed some smoke coming from under the hood and saw it was coming from the hydraulic pump, it was HOT. I let it sit there for about 30 minutes to cool down, started doing some research, went back out and all was well again, for about 10 minutes before it happened again (I still didn't know, I was the cause of this yet). I parked it and shut it down and began digging through forum threads from late 90's all the way up until present.... that's when I realized that I was the problem and I caused the pump to overheat. I should note that the controls allowed the loader and 3ph to lower, but no raise, curl or dump.
This was Saturday and I haven't had a chance to do anything with it as of yet. I did check engine oil to see if it was overfull from a blown seal. between pumpkin pop and motor, but it was not, hydraulic fluid was right on full as well.
So now my question....should I continue to run it and hope that I didn't screw anything up internally? Or should I pull the pump out and replace the oringsand check they key just in case?

5. Prior to making my mistake when I was only operating the loader with the 3ph down, there was some screaching noises coming from the hydraulics somewhere, but only at the limits, end of curl, end of dump, and top height of loader, are my lines sucking air? High pressure or suction line? I don't know. this happened before and after changing hydraulic fluid and cleaning suction screen. I plan on taking ALL the the horses off and blowing them out as a precaution. Anything else I should do? (I do not have a pressure gauge to test system). There is no noise in the hydraulic system when operating the 3ph.

6. The suction screen appears to be the one Hoye sells from the pic on the website, it wasn't completely caked with crud, but it definitely needed cleaned... what I didn't do, was pay attention to what direction the screen came out. One end of the screen has the metal mesh covering the end, the other end does not, and doesn't appear to have any marks on the housing that it ever did.... are they directional? I put the screen in with the covered mesh end in facing the suction hose.

7. Can anyone identify my loader control valve? PN# 156B2303 Only thing I can find regarding part number is on a QCC website, but nothing else. The valve has a Power Beyond port and I would like to find the "sleeve" so I don't have to worry about me or anyone else that may operate the tractor making the same mistake I did by accidentally using both the loader and 3ph at that same time with it plumbed in series.

8. The loader appears to be homemade? Can anyone confirm that by the pics or is it a repainted and beefed up Koyker? SSB? VN? etc...there are definitely some welds that do not appear to have been done by a manufacturer.

I already have a few items in my cart on Hoye's website, but if I can confirm some things and hopefully get everything ordered in one shot, I would prefer to do it that way.

Any help is appreciated and sorry for the long post!

Pics attached through Photobucket, let me know if it works or not!

<LINK_TEXT text="http://s1194.photo.../Yanmar YM1500D?sort=3&amp;page=1</LINK_TEXT>
 
Welcome to the forum from a fellow AZ resident!
<I><s></s>
"I recently purchased what I believe to be one of the earliest "green" Yanmar YM1500D's." <e></e></I>

I'm puzzled - the images you posted clearly show a red YM. Was it re-painted?
 
1. Confirm that I have a "green", don't care green or red, just need to know for ordering parts.
<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>It is the green style<e></e></COLOR>

2. Front knuckles appear to be leaking from the large seal that connects the upper/lower half, I've read this is common, any other common leaking spots in the front axles I need to worry about?

3. Out of all of the YM1500D pictures on the internet, I have seen 2, that do not have the twist knob between the legs, mine makes this 3 (which is why I think it is one of the earliest models made)?
<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>I dont think any of the green styles had the knob.<e></e></COLOR>

4. Prior to doing some research AFTER I made a mistake that I didn't know that I had made.... the 3 point lever has a nut and bolt that friction holds it in place, I did not realize that lever needed to be moved forward just a bit to put it in "neutral" once it was raised, I then operated the loader with the 3 point lever "locked" in the up position. I don't know how long or how many times I did this, but I was moving dirt around for about 45 minutes before the 3ph and loader quit working altogether. I shut the machine down and began inspecting, I had no idea what happened or that I caused it to happen at the time. I noticed some smoke coming from under the hood and saw it was coming from the hydraulic pump, it was HOT. I let it sit there for about 30 minutes to cool down, started doing some research, went back out and all was well again, for about 10 minutes before it happened again (I still didn't know, I was the cause of this yet). I parked it and shut it down and began digging through forum threads from late 90's all the way up until present.... that's when I realized that I was the problem and I caused the pump to overheat. I should note that the controls allowed the loader and 3ph to lower, but no raise, curl or dump.
This was Saturday and I haven't had a chance to do anything with it as of yet. I did check engine oil to see if it was overfull from a blown seal. between pumpkin pop and motor, but it was not, hydraulic fluid was right on full as well.
So now my question....should I continue to run it and hope that I didn't screw anything up internally? Or should I pull the pump out and replace the oringsand check they key just in case?

<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>If it is not broke I would not try to fix it. If everything is still working then it will be fine. I dont know how hot it got but "too hot to touch" is a lot lower than "hot enough to cause damage".<e></e></COLOR>

5. Prior to making my mistake when I was only operating the loader with the 3ph down, there was some screaching noises coming from the hydraulics somewhere, but only at the limits, end of curl, end of dump, and top height of loader, are my lines sucking air? High pressure or suction line? I don't know. this happened before and after changing hydraulic fluid and cleaning suction screen. I plan on taking ALL the the horses off and blowing them out as a precaution. Anything else I should do? (I do not have a pressure gauge to test system). There is no noise in the hydraulic system when operating the 3ph.
<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>
That is probably your relief valve<I><s></s> relieving<e></e></I> and is normal. <e></e></COLOR>

6. The suction screen appears to be the one Hoye sells from the pic on the website, it wasn't completely caked with crud, but it definitely needed cleaned... what I didn't do, was pay attention to what direction the screen came out. One end of the screen has the metal mesh covering the end, the other end does not, and doesn't appear to have any marks on the housing that it ever did.... are they directional? I put the screen in with the covered mesh end in facing the suction hose.

<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>The opening should face the suction tube (you want the junk to collect on the outside of the screen - not inside)<e></e></COLOR>

7. Can anyone identify my loader control valve? PN# 156B2303 Only thing I can find regarding part number is on a QCC website, but nothing else. The valve has a Power Beyond port and I would like to find the "sleeve" so I don't have to worry about me or anyone else that may operate the tractor making the same mistake I did by accidentally using both the loader and 3ph at that same time with it plumbed in series.

8. The loader appears to be homemade? Can anyone confirm that by the pics or is it a repainted and beefed up Koyker? SSB? VN? etc...there are definitely some welds that do not appear to have been done by a manufacturer.
<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>

I would not really call it 'homemade' (very nicely done if it was) but it is not a koyker. It looks a lot like the coldwater loaders only with dual dump cylinders. <e></e></COLOR>
 
Welcome to the forum from a fellow AZ resident!
<I><s></s>
"I recently purchased what I believe to be one of the earliest "green" Yanmar YM1500D's." <e></e></I>

I'm puzzled - the images you posted clearly show a red YM. Was it re-painted?
Click to expand...
br/>


Thank you! Aaron answered already, but I am just confirming! The early models were green from the factory and the newer models were red, somewhere along the import/refurb line, "most" have all been repainted and some point to red (mine appears to have been repainted at least 4 times, maybe 3, I can't find any green underneath the red, but there is definitely 3 layers of red paint on my tractor, so if it ever was green, then it would be 4) Could just of had the tins changed out with an original model, who knows.... the only way to distinguish between a "green" and "red" is a handful of components on the tractor (front knuckles, rear axle housings, etc...)
 
<QUOTE author="Aaron"><s>
</s>1. Confirm that I have a "green", don't care green or red, just need to know for ordering parts.
<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>It is the green style<e></e></COLOR> Thank you! Almost ready to place my order now!

2. Front knuckles appear to be leaking from the large seal that connects the upper/lower half, I've read this is common, any other common leaking spots in the front axles I need to worry about?

3. Out of all of the YM1500D pictures on the internet, I have seen 2, that do not have the twist knob between the legs, mine makes this 3 (which is why I think it is one of the earliest models made)?
<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>I dont think any of the green styles had the knob.<e></e></COLOR> Interesting, I don't need it, just thought it was odd there wasn't one.

4. Prior to doing some research AFTER I made a mistake that I didn't know that I had made.... the 3 point lever has a nut and bolt that friction holds it in place, I did not realize that lever needed to be moved forward just a bit to put it in "neutral" once it was raised, I then operated the loader with the 3 point lever "locked" in the up position. I don't know how long or how many times I did this, but I was moving dirt around for about 45 minutes before the 3ph and loader quit working altogether. I shut the machine down and began inspecting, I had no idea what happened or that I caused it to happen at the time. I noticed some smoke coming from under the hood and saw it was coming from the hydraulic pump, it was HOT. I let it sit there for about 30 minutes to cool down, started doing some research, went back out and all was well again, for about 10 minutes before it happened again (I still didn't know, I was the cause of this yet). I parked it and shut it down and began digging through forum threads from late 90's all the way up until present.... that's when I realized that I was the problem and I caused the pump to overheat. I should note that the controls allowed the loader and 3ph to lower, but no raise, curl or dump.
This was Saturday and I haven't had a chance to do anything with it as of yet. I did check engine oil to see if it was overfull from a blown seal. between pumpkin pop and motor, but it was not, hydraulic fluid was right on full as well.
So now my question....should I continue to run it and hope that I didn't screw anything up internally? Or should I pull the pump out and replace the oringsand check they key just in case?

<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>If it is not broke I would not try to fix it. If everything is still working then it will be fine. I dont know how hot it got but "too hot to touch" is a lot lower than "hot enough to cause damage".<e></e></COLOR> I was hoping you would say that! It burned the SH** out of my thumb and smoked like a mofo for about 5 minutes!

5. Prior to making my mistake when I was only operating the loader with the 3ph down, there was some screaching noises coming from the hydraulics somewhere, but only at the limits, end of curl, end of dump, and top height of loader, are my lines sucking air? High pressure or suction line? I don't know. this happened before and after changing hydraulic fluid and cleaning suction screen. I plan on taking ALL the the horses off and blowing them out as a precaution. Anything else I should do? (I do not have a pressure gauge to test system). There is no noise in the hydraulic system when operating the 3ph.
<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>
That is probably your relief valve<I><s></s> relieving<e></e></I> and is normal. <e></e></COLOR> Good to know!

6. The suction screen appears to be the one Hoye sells from the pic on the website, it wasn't completely caked with crud, but it definitely needed cleaned... what I didn't do, was pay attention to what direction the screen came out. One end of the screen has the metal mesh covering the end, the other end does not, and doesn't appear to have any marks on the housing that it ever did.... are they directional? I put the screen in with the covered mesh end in facing the suction hose.

<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>The opening should face the suction tube (you want the junk to collect on the outside of the screen - not inside)<e></e></COLOR> Well damn....guess I need to drain and flip that screen, ugh

7. Can anyone identify my loader control valve? PN# 156B2303 Only thing I can find regarding part number is on a QCC website, but nothing else. The valve has a Power Beyond port and I would like to find the "sleeve" so I don't have to worry about me or anyone else that may operate the tractor making the same mistake I did by accidentally using both the loader and 3ph at that same time with it plumbed in series.

8. The loader appears to be homemade? Can anyone confirm that by the pics or is it a repainted and beefed up Koyker? SSB? VN? etc...there are definitely some welds that do not appear to have been done by a manufacturer.
<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>

I would not really call it 'homemade' (very nicely done if it was) but it is not a koyker. It looks a lot like the coldwater loaders only with dual dump cylinders. <e></e></COLOR><e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
I have been looking at all the different styles of loaders for these, just haven't been able to match one to mine, I was thinking SSB or Coldwater with some modifications.


Can anyone answer these for me? Sorry, I know it was a lot of questions!

2. Front knuckles appear to be leaking from the large seal that connects the upper/lower half, I've read this is common, any other common leaking spots in the front axles I need to worry about before ordering to make everything right?

7. Can anyone identify my loader control valve? PN# 156B2303 (possibly a duke's?) Only thing I can find regarding part number is on a QCC website that says it was on a Ford 1700, but nothing else. The valve has a Power Beyond port and I would like to find the "sleeve" so I don't have to worry about me or anyone else that may operate the tractor making the same mistake I did by accidentally using both the loader and 3ph at that same time with it plumbed in series.
 
<QUOTE><s>
</s>There are two ways you could do it. There is really not a right or wrong answer but I usually go with #2 since I'm already there and have my tools out.
1)- replace only what is leaking right now
2)- replace the axle seals while you are there. <e>[/color]</e></COLOR>

7. Can anyone identify my loader control valve? PN# 156B2303 (possibly a duke's?) Only thing I can find regarding part number is on a QCC website that says it was on a Ford 1700, but nothing else. The valve has a Power Beyond port and I would like to find the "sleeve" so I don't have to worry about me or anyone else that may operate the tractor making the same mistake I did by accidentally using both the loader and 3ph at that same time with it plumbed in series.

<COLOR color="#BF0000"><s></s>Sorry I dont know what that would be. <e></e></COLOR>
<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
 
<QUOTE author="Aaron"><s>
</s><QUOTE><s>
</s>There are two ways you could do it. There is really not a right or wrong answer but I usually go with #2 since I'm already there and have my tools out.
1)- replace only what is leaking right now
2)- replace the axle seals while you are there. <e>[/color]</e></COLOR> I will do #2 as well, thank you!
<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
Click to expand...
 
Looks like you may have your hands full with pump, so for leaking front axle seals I would just top off with LUCAS Power Steering Stop Leak and put that job off for 10-20 years. It is about same viscosity as 90wt.
 
<QUOTE author="yzrmbsg"><s>
</s><QUOTE author="Aaron"><s>
</s><QUOTE><s>
</s>There are two ways you could do it. There is really not a right or wrong answer but I usually go with #2 since I'm already there and have my tools out.
1)- replace only what is leaking right now
2)- replace the axle seals while you are there. <e>[/color]</e></COLOR> I will do #2 as well, thank you!
<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE><e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>


Aaron, axle seal is #55? Correct?
https://www.hoyetractor.com/PROD/38x62x9TC.htm
Click to expand...
 
Another issue I have come across, but forgot about until now. When turning left, the steering arm (#63) hits the front axle fill bolt (#32)...it appears to have been doing this for quite some time as the axle fill bolt has one side that is pretty worn down... if you look at the steering linkage in my pics, there is a curve to it, is that supposed to be there? Or is it supposed to be straight?

https://www.hoyetractor.com/CTGY/YM1500G4WDEX.htm

<s>[url=http://s1194.photobucket.co...00D/20190114_171550.jpg<e>[/img]</e></IMG><e></e>[/URL]
 
<QUOTE author="yzrmbsg"><s>
</s>

6. The suction screen appears to be the one Hoye sells from the pic on the website, it wasn't completely caked with crud, but it definitely needed cleaned... what I didn't do, was pay attention to what direction the screen came out. One end of the screen has the metal mesh covering the end, the other end does not, and doesn't appear to have any marks on the housing that it ever did.... are they directional? I put the screen in with the covered mesh end in facing the suction hose.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

Turns out...You were right Aaron (I knew you were), just confirmed it today. The OPEN end of the suction screen NEEDS to be on the suction hose side! I ran the tractor for about 10 minutes today, making sure I was not depressing the plunger on the 3ph and using the loader at the same time.... box blade was down fully and loader was just high enough to clear the ground in front me.... ALL hydraulics quit after that 10 minutes and the pump was HOT again.

So I parked, swapped the screen, and low and behold, ran the tractor for an hour and a half with 0 hydraulic issues. Did some loader testing, box blading, drove around while operating both (not at the same time) and it worked like it should.

Lesson of the story.... PAY ATTENTION to what direction you pull the screen out and place it back in after cleaning.
 
During my hour and a half of tractoring today....another issue came about. when in 4 wheel drive, every few turns of the front wheels, it seemed to "skip", make a clanking noise, then catch and continue forward. it didn't do it continuously, but happened a hand full of times while I was box blading in both high and low range, low gear.

Any ideas what this could be?

Of course this would happen AFTER I already placed my Hoye order. Ugh.
 
I would try to course the noise. Might try jacking it up, rotate by hand. Could be in driveshaft, differential, or wheel units. I wouldn't want to run it much until repairs are made.
 
Your bent steering rod must be a pretty common problem... my red 1500D has the same bend to it! Hoye has replacements for $185.

I wonder if it is possible to sleeve them, like tie rods on a pickup, to strengthen the whole assembly.
 
<QUOTE author="winston"><s>
</s>I would try to course the noise. Might try jacking it up, rotate by hand. Could be in driveshaft, differential, or wheel units. I wouldn't want to run it much until repairs are made.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

I did jack up the front end yesterday to try and see what was going on, no binding, clanking, clicking, etc... I ordered some new deals from Hoye, so I will be breaking into the knuckles at some point (BIL is coming to visit this weekend, so probably won't be able to get to it until next weekend).
 
<QUOTE author="Threeweight"><s>
</s>Your bent steering rod must be a pretty common problem... my red 1500D has the same bend to it! Hoye has replacements for $185.

I wonder if it is possible to sleeve them, like tie rods on a pickup, to strengthen the whole assembly.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

I saw the replacement on Hoye's, I think I'll pull it off when I replace the seals on the knuckles and see if I can straighten it out...we'll see!
 
Bent steering arms should not be causing your steering play. I would check the end knuckles for play before bothering to straighten. Would try that Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak. It can save you a lot of work. It has stopped my bush hog output seal leak for over ten years.
 
"when in 4 wheel drive, every few turns of the front wheels, it seemed to "skip", make a clanking noise, then catch and continue forward. "

I'd pull the front driveshaft cover and inspect the splines for wear from "jumping." If there isn't enough spring tension or the splines are worn, you will get a clank noise when the shaft skips. There are 6-8 BB's interfacing between the shaft and the pinion input. I suspect worn spline.

When I toasted my driveshaft (2210D), It made that nasty clanking sound. One new driveshaft (and some mods) restored 4x4. I hope this helps!
 
"when in 4 wheel drive, every few turns of the front wheels, it seemed to "skip", make a clanking noise, then catch and continue forward. "

I'd pull the front driveshaft cover and inspect the splines for wear from "jumping." If there isn't enough spring tension or the splines are worn, you will get a clank noise when the shaft skips. There are 6-8 BB's interfacing between the shaft and the pinion input. I suspect worn spline.

When I toasted my driveshaft (2210D), It made that nasty clanking sound. One new driveshaft (and some mods) restored 4x4. I hope this helps!
Click to expand...
br/>


I read a couple of posts last night with similar issues about inspecting the driveshaft and BB's, I will definitely look there first.

The splines were worn on your driveshaft? Not on the front diff shaft? What "mods" did you do?
 
Good day yz,
Also a 1500d owner and now that it has warmed a bit I thought I would share pics of the steering that you had question about. The one on the left side looks to be bent as yours is and shows not sign of not being normal. The one under the front looks like it is straight. Felt it was all normal until you posted and now I had to look. Thanks a lot! LOL<ATTACHMENT filename="left 3.jpg" index="1"><s>[attachment=1]</s>left 3.jpg<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT><ATTACHMENT filename="front.jpg" index="0"><s>[attachment=0]</s>front.jpg<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT>

39123_b8831d0271c6326b064498922068152c.jpg


39123_20a6e4c917014e22932c7d6b33519a30.jpg
 
<QUOTE author="ratman1978"><s>
</s>Good day yz,
Also a 1500d owner and now that it has warmed a bit I thought I would share pics of the steering that you had question about. The one on the left side looks to be bent as yours is and shows not sign of not being normal. The one under the front looks like it is straight. Felt it was all normal until you posted and now I had to look. Thanks a lot! LOL<ATTACHMENT filename="left 3.jpg" index="1"><s>[attachment=1]</s>left 3.jpg<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT><ATTACHMENT filename="front.jpg" index="0"><s>[attachment=0]</s>front.jpg<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT><e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

I'm almost wondering if it has to do with steering stops non existent or working properly as the "bend" appears to be where the tire would make contact with it on a hard left turn. Who really knows being 40+ years old what these things have been subjected to.
 
Well, finally got around to working on the front end of my tractor..... I have a GREEN 1500D with RED front wheel drive knuckles.....SON OF B****! The large seals I just tore out.... are about 10mm larger than the ones I ordered. Ugh.

Not sure if the axle seal and bottom knuckle gasket will fit yet, haven't got that far.

Aaron! help please!
 
On a positive note, the knuckles were filthy and full of sludge, got them all cleaned up, bearings appear to be in good shape. Just need the right (red) seals and gaskets, then can put her back together!

Got the water temp gauge mounted, haven't been able to test it yet since I still have it up on the Jack stands.

Replaced the 12 balls in the drive shaft (only had 3 of 12), the front diff input shaft is damn near rounded off, so I will likely need to source that from somewhere...biggest problem now is, is there a difference between RED and GREEN diffs? or is it just the knuckles?

Replaced the nasty air filter seals, tighted alot of loose bolts all over the tractor.

Still need to replace the suction hose coupler and one of my hydraulic high pressure connections needs a good cleaning/sealing.

Just a few more things to button up and I can get it doing some work instead of me doing all the work to to it!
 
<QUOTE author="yzrmbsg"><s>
</s>

Replaced the 12 balls in the drive shaft (only had 3 of 12), the front diff input shaft is damn near rounded off, so I will likely need to source that from somewhere...biggest problem now is, is there a difference between RED and GREEN diffs? or is it just the knuckles?
<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

As I feared, got the knuckles back together this morning, all seems to be sealed up and no leaks.....but about 30 minutes into box blading my driveway.... I lost my driveshaft!!! All 12 new balls....GONE.
Found some of the other pieces, driveshaft, spring, 1 of 2 washers, cotter pin still in place, not sure if I had a coupler seal, but if I did, it's gone, coupler came off the splines and, and all the fresh grease is now full of gravel/sand.

The pinion shaft is toast.

I see that "red" and "green" pinion shafts have different part numbers, neither of which are available to purchase. Says "contact for used"?

With my tractor being a "green" with "red" knuckles....how do I know if I have a "red" or "green" differential so I can get the right pinion shaft?
 
Can anyone confirm my suspicion? Or is the 6-14 within the 2-10% ratio range and nothing to be concerned about?

I have seen a few other 1500D's online also running 6-14's on the front....just in pictures, not sure if they had similar issues as I have.
 
The 6-14 would absolutely put a lot of stress on the 4wd. For every one rotation of the tires your front tires are trying to go an extra 5" more than the rear tires (assuming the rear tires are correct).
 
<QUOTE author="Aaron"><s>
</s>The 6-14 would absolutely put a lot of stress on the 4wd. For every one rotation of the tires your front tires are trying to go an extra 5" more than the rear tires (assuming the rear tires are correct).<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

yes, the rears are correct, this lil tractor sure has been neglected in it's previous life! ugh
 
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