NNA questions

[Mad Farmer]

Bringing back this dead thread. My cousin's brother got sick and we lost him 2023. The NAA took a back seat to family, but we just picked up working on it this spring. Hope to have it ready for pulling the rake/tedder for haying 2024.

To recap NAA ran like crap, we R + Red distributor but still ran bad. Learned it had been overheated and head gasket blown between #2 and #3.

We have the reconditioned head and decided to also do the water pump while the tractor is apart.

The initial overheat was from a radiator leak and we decided to have the radiator shop take care of that. It is the original one and not in too bad of condition. While taking the head off the muffler fell apart so we also got a new exhaust system, and discovered the intake/exhaust manifold was also rotted so have an aftermarket manifold.

I've taken the carb apart and everything seems in order and clean, float level set. Anything else I'm missing while we have the hood off and apart to check/recondition now?

I'm a little concerned with the quality and fit of the new manifold. The runners for the int/ex are much larger diameter than the original, as is the carb inlet and ex outlet. Is this because of a 1 fits all manifold that is shared with the larger engines like the 800 series? How will this effect flow when running? They also missed machining the surface around two of the stud holes.

The quality of the casting is terrible inside, with lots of flash inside both intake and exhaust runners. There is NOTHING smooth inside the runners. I'm sort of afraid this flash may break loose and get inside the reconditioned engine. This manifold is brand new and not carbon inside the runners, it's rough cast iron.

I've got some pictures. Would you send this manifold back?

One other question. I have the IT manual, and the Ford NAA owner's manual and shop manual. Is there a place to download the parts/IPL books?

I take more pictures as things come together............

 

[Btzj02]

That is the same manifold I installed this winter. I did need to sacrifice a socket by grinding the walls thinner so it would fit over one of the manifold nuts. I also used an angle grinder to touch up the area around the carburetor flange so that one of the nuts would fit. The forward gas tank support needed a little grinding so it would not bind with the upper front corner of the manifold flange. I have zero experience on the casting quality but the tractor seems to run just fine. Over time I have just become accustom to these minor adjustments needed for most after market "new" parts.

 

[Mad Farmer]

That is the same manifold I installed this winter. I did need to sacrifice a socket by grinding the walls thinner so it would fit over one of the manifold nuts. I also used an angle grinder to touch up the area around the carburetor flange so that one of the nuts would fit. The forward gas tank support needed a little grinding so it would not bind with the upper front corner of the manifold flange. I have zero experience on the casting quality but the tractor seems to run just fine. Over time I have just become accustom to these minor adjustments needed for most after market "new" parts.

Was this on a NAA/600/134 ci engine?

Did the casting have loose flash inside all the runners? Have a close look.

 

[Mad Farmer]

We checked the manifold shipping package. It is full of loose cast iron particles (picture). Manifold is getting shipped back.

Just a warning to others, this would have ruined a rebuilt engine.

Cast iron slag from new manifold.

 

[Angus Farmer]

that is a piece of sh t find a good used one

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

Great write-up Mad Farmer. I can't speak for the Tisco ignition parts but I do have part numbers for NAPA.

The first numbers are for Standard or Blue Streak and the other number is Echlin.

Points: FD-6769X or ECH CS-35
Condenser: FD-71 or ECH FA200
Rotor: FD-71 or ECH FA300
Cap: FD-126 or ECH FA350.

For what it's worth, I've seen posts on here that say Echlin is not what it used to be.

ECHLIN CS-35 now made in Cheena and last batch of half dozen I had were junk- - - could not align point contacts NOR get them to GAP correctly. STD IGN is best, TISCO ATK6FF or CNH 87744524 next best good brans. CNH is twice as much be forewarned. Average cost of points should be abut $16; anyone charging more is a ripoff. NAPA stocks all the parts and a many, ECHLIN/STD IGN, are Made In the USA. CNH made in Canada. The TISCO kit includes the condenser and a reusable .015" Feeler Gage to GAP points with. Save it.

Your Mileage May Vary,
Tim Daley (MI)