Oil Change question

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I'm in the middle of my first oil change. The crank case has stopped dripping. I've removed the oil filter but the canister is about half full of oil with no sign of it draining out. Is this normal? I hate to put a new filter in there in old dirty oil but I don't see any way of draining the oil out of the canister other than removing the oil line from the bottom.
Help please?
BTW, I did check my owner's manual and it does not address this.
 
Strange ... there should be a brass fitting that can be
removed from the bottom of the oil canister. You don't
have this?

You pulled the oil filter out? That's also strange that the oil
didn't drain back into the crankcase. Make sure the inside
of the oil canister, where the oil tube exits, is clean of
gunk. It should drain back down just from gravity, and not
sit there.

Colin, MN
 
The only fitting I see at the bottom of the filter canister is the oil line connection, but I wouldn't have thought it would be necessary to remove the oil line to drain the canister. I stuck my hand in the canister. There is no gunk. The oil wasn't really bad. The oil plug screen had no blockage at all.
Yes, I did remove the filter.
If the oil is not draining out of the filter canister, it makes me wonder if this has something to do with my consistant high oil pressure -- Nearly always close to 50 psi, sometimes around 60 for a while when I first start up.
 
The earlier 8N's had a small drain plug at bottom of filter housing. The later ones do not have this, so you really need a suction gun to pull the most of the oil out, then use rags or paper towels to mop up the rest of oil. I have never had it drain out on it's own.
 
Ah, Ford... that would explain it. Very strange, but that would explain it. So, I'll have to suck up the cup or so of oil that remains. Do I need to pour fresh oil into the canister when I replace the filter, or just add all of it to the oil fill?
 
The oil CAN'T drain out of the filter housing by gravity.

The inlet is up off the bottom, and the outlet is WAY up high, into the center post, and then down.
 
Kenster

That is the way my 50 8N is.

And yes our family 2N had the canister drain, however not the 50 N. They probably saved enough for ole henry to go on vacation by deleting it.
 
NO need to add oil to the filter hosuing, as it is a BYPASS filter. The oil passing through the filter only gets dumped back into the crankcase, through the governor housing, so the main bearings, rod bearings, and cam bearings do NOT have to wait for the filter housing to fill at startup before they get lubed.
 
Bob, The oil will drain from mine after about 15 minutes of
operation, leaving only about a half inch of oil below the
spacer.

Colin
 
I have 2 8N "non-drainers". I wonder if some filters (such as your's) might have been made with an extra (lower) hole in the center tube? AFAIK they ALWAYS have one up high to allow air to get out of the housing, or the filter housing would never fill with oil.
 
Next time you plan an oil change get yourself a Plug with correct
NPT tap. Take off the housing and drill/tap it for the plug
 
That high oil pressure may be due to a stuck relief valve. Since the lube system on this engine has a bypass filter, you'd hardly notice if it plugged up.
 
kenster- what i have found that works for me with the least amount of hassle is to use a turkey baster and suck up all you can with that and wipe the rest out with a rag. you might need to get your wife a new baster, they tend to get a little ticked when they find motor oil in thier baster.
 

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