Radiator replacement

howdy1960

Well-known Member
Has anyone encountered any problems using the 'restoration quality' radiator from this site? Or the less expensive unit as my shroud isn't there any ways.

I've noticed antifreeze on fins 1/2 way down during prestart check over that wasn't showing up a few months ago so guess it's time for replacement. I called local rad shop and quote is over $500 to recore, $400 for good replacement and $300 for cheap replacement.
Gonna do the black pepper trick to hope make it thru till replacement.

Thanks for your input,
Norm
 
The very first thing I would do is take it to the radiator shop & just tell them to give you a quote for fixing it.

A local shop here fixed this one for $90.

They also fixed my A Model radiator in much worse condition for $160.
waterpump002.jpg

75 Tips
 
I"ve been nursing a radiator leak all winter on my 860.....good radiator repair shops are hard to find....I just got a quote to repair mine from a guy that has had his shop for 35 years.

$80 to $120 max for a recore....usually one day turn around...

Tim
 
Check the core.

A decent flat-fin copper/brass core for a vintage Ford radiator costs over $200 wholesale.

You will not be happy with an aluminum serpentine automotive core unless your tractor is a trailer queen.

Dean
 
Called another repair shop and could be little as $80 to fix if not rotted out to as much as $550 for complete recore. Whats the chance it's not rotted out ~grrrr~ lol
This is my snow plow tractor and snow blower is down. Come on warmer weather!!!
 
water pump head space problem ;)

I have an 850 that it ate up twice that bad.

that rad would be bannded in california as it has so much solder on it to fix it. :)
 
Dean--I value your opinions, the tractor is a working 860, and will never be a trailer queen...may trade it for a newer tractor.....so, can you expand on your post as far as the aluminum cores go....

Thanks, Tim
 
Forget the pepper, get a bottle of mustard and put the whole thing in there, it will cure your leak and probably for good.
 
The flat-finned industrial core is designed to allow most debris to pass through rather than clogging the core. Such core is absolutely essential for a working tractor, especially if you do ANY mowing.

The automotive type (serpentine) core is much too fine to allow debris to pass and will clog VERY quickly. If you try to use one of these cores in a mowing tractor you will find yourself cleaning the core with compressed air every round.

Dean
 
Never heard the mustard trick.
Called a differant shop and he wants to see if mine is fixable vs a recore. Big differance in cost.
Ended up ordering a new radiator and pads from this site as this is plow tractor. Will take old unit to shop later and if fixable will do. If fixable will put in storage since I hope to have more than 1 these ole tractors ~grinz~
 

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