Replacement auto darkening welding helmet lens

[Eman85]

I have an older Hobart Hood and the auto darkening lens stopped working. I purchased a replacement lens from Amazon, but it doesn't seem to work correctly. Tried to buy a better one but I can't seem to get it to work. It has a disc type battery in it and has a grind feature and is adjustable from 6-13. Out of the package as soon as you turn from grind to weld the lens goes dark. It has a battery check button which when pressed does nothing. When turning it on battery light comes on and then goes off. Pulled battery and it checks good, changed battery same results. I left it out in the sun for 2 days and it would work if you turned the delay knob but even after welding a little it would go back to dark all of the time. No problem returning it if I want unless someone has a suggestion that's what I'll do.
Anyone buy a replacement lens that they are very satisfied with? I bought a Harbor Freight helmet to use but I'd really like my old Hobart working again. If not I guess I'm going to buy a new helmet. I just hobby weld but do want to protect my eyes and the older I get the harder it is to see anything! Open for suggestions. Really didn't want to spend $300+ for a helmet.

 

[Janicholson]

Return it to Amazon. The issue is not yours to try to fix. I use a Hobart and the battery works for 6 months of intermittent use. Jim

 

[stevieb49829]

Do you have a sensitivity adjustment? You can usually adjust it to what level of light sets it off to go dark. Mine stays dark right now even with the glow of the cooling weld. Needs just a little tweaking. The 6-13 setting, I think is the level of dark that the lens gets when it is triggered. IE, it doesn't go as dark if you are only grinding. My Miller has 3 settings: Darkness, Delay, and Sensitivity. It uses two 3V button batteries, and I've replaced them both, once, in over 7 years of hobby welding (2-3 times/week). steve

 

[zuhnc]

I have a Miller as well, and have replaced the battery once in 10 years. Hobby welding, also. Very good mid-price helmet. If your Hobart is *really* old, might be time to replace it. Electronics do wear out/fail over time. zuhnc

 

[caterpillar guy]

I'll keep my old shaded lens glass with no auto junk on it. No flashes either.

 

[DanielW]

I had an old auto-darkening helmet fail in exactly the same way. I doubt it's a battery issue, as a dead battery usually means it fails to darken, whereas yours darkens all the time.

I gave up using the auto darkening helmet and went back to a standard helmet for years. Then (this year) I was given a brand new ESAB auto darkening helmet for my birthday: What a difference! The new helmet is about a million times better than the old auto helmet ever was. If yours is an older helmet, I don't think it's worth repairing unfortunafely. The new ones are so much better: The wide viewing lense is nice and (most significantly) the colour is crystal clear. The old helmets all had a bluey/greeny tinge that made it tougher to see.

I suggest biting the bullet and getting a new helmet: you won't realize what you've been missing until you try one.

 

[redtom]

My issue is how to add a cheater Ken's to an auto dark helmet. I taped a cheater to the inside of the lens of mine, for now. Idk how else to do it

 

[stevieb49829]

My issue is how to add a cheater Ken's to an auto dark helmet. I taped a cheater to the inside of the lens of mine, for now. Idk how else to do it

Tom, I heard a rumor they now make an autodark with built-in magnification. So I googled this: welding helmet with magnifying lens. A lot of options popped up, including add-on cheaters. steve

 

[kurt:in]

I use a 3M Speedglas,it has a built in holder for a cheater lens.

 

[gears]

My Miller elite has provisions for snap in cheaters too.

 

[zuhnc]

I had cheaters in my Miller, but took them out, once I got my eyes "upgraded"! I can see clearly, now. zuhnc

 

[caterpillar guy]

You don't really want to go less than a 10 to protect your eyes without damage to then welding and darker would be better if you can see with it.

 

[Eman85]

So I guess everyone throws their old helmets away and doesn't replace the auto darkening lens.
So what new helmet do you suggest? I've seen Yeswelders and Weldcote, anyone have these?

 

[stevieb49829]

So I guess everyone throws their old helmets away and doesn't replace the auto darkening lens.
So what new helmet do you suggest? I've seen Yeswelders and Weldcote, anyone have these?

I'd say you probably get what you pay for. A $2-300 helmet will probably outlive you, with a battery change or two. Just buy the helmet that has the features you want. If it were me, I'd stick with the name brands like Miller, Hobart, and several others. The brand names will have replacement lens modules available. steve

 

[Pitalplace]

Don't throw out your old helmet. Take the auto dark module out and use it for a grinding helmet. Works great and the clear lens for my helmet are cheap.

 

[504]

weldcote True - Color/ You can get change back from $200.00. Everybody we have sold them to loves them.

 

[farmersamm]

AD hoods are the bee's knees if they're good. If they're not................You need to rethink your budget. A Jackson True Sight runs to some serious money. But it's not one bit better than a FiberMetal passive hood. You just need to see the puddle. A passive hood gives as good a view as any AD hood. If not better.

I can weld the same with either a passive, or an AD. It doesn't matter. It's all about the puddle. Gear up, go crazy, get the latest greatest..............and if you can't read the puddle.........it's money down the crapper.

I got old.............wasn't my fault. I woulda done something about it, if I had the chance. I have a good eye(cataract removed), and a bad eye(dunctionally blind)..............................................I can still read a puddle.

The latest bit of welding. Lower right, getting used to the machine. Lower left, almost got it. Top two, in the groove. HALF BLIND. I look at the puddle from behind to see the profile. I've lost most of my depth perception. I can only judge by the slag line.

It does not matter what you use. It's about seeing the puddle............being the puddle. You do not need an AD hood. Matter of fact, ditch it, and get a good quality passive hood.

Caveat............I use a Jackson True Sight.............just because I can............... I'd be just as happy with a passive hood. I do keep a few to fill in when the fancy pants hood goes South.

You will get more bang for your buck, if you're in the low budget range, when you use a decent passive hood.

I think I have a feel for what you're going through. This stuff is expensive, and it's painful to shell out the moola. Try a passive, and see how youlike it.

 

[Eman85]

I have passive hoods and lenses, now they're used for solar eclipses.
Just a follow up I bought a Weldcote Ultraview Plus with true Color. One of the deciding factors was my local guy that does some machine work and tig work for me uses them He's had them for years and really suggested them. I checked pricing and it's hard to believe but Walmart.com had the best price, better than Amazon. The difference in the newer AD lenses is amazing with the true color and a 12 sq in view. Controls are all inside which I like, I would have problems with the control getting bumped and turned on my other helmet when welding inside a car. It uses standard outer protective lenses and has a provision for a magnifier lens also.