Rewiring grandpas 39 Ford 9N

[Shane Allen69]

First, thank you for taking the time to read my post. I'm trying to rewire a 39 Ford 9N with original 6V positive ground. Where does the wire go to on top of generator ? Wire that was there wasn't hooked up to anything. How do you check cutout to make sure it's good ? Also this 6V positive ground system is new to me. Does current constantly run thru the frame 24/7 ? Wouldn't this continually drain the battery ? Thanks again for looking at my newbie and probably stupid questions. [/img:c5a11ba009]

 

[warbaby]

I dont want to steal anyone's thunder, but
this will get you started

 

[Jim L WA]

Hi Shane, welcome to the forum. Warbaby got you started well, but to answer your question about current flow, you are correct, current does flow through the fame just like it does on the vehicles you drive regardless of polarity. Some flashlights or pen lights are made of aluminum. The current flows through the body of those as well.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:28:07 07/20/21) First, thank you for taking the time to read my post. I'm trying to rewire a 39 Ford 9N with original 6V positive ground. Where does the wire go to on top of generator ? Wire that was there wasn't hooked up to anything. How do you check cutout to make sure it's good ? Also this 6V positive ground system is new to me. Does current constantly run thru the frame 24/7 ? Wouldn't this continually drain the battery ? Thanks again for looking at my newbie and probably stupid questions. [/img]

939 9N & terminal on barrel of generator! You may have a very rare generator of the first 12,500 9Ns built! Measure the barrel circumference, if 11.5" (3 3/4" dia) vs later 14.25" circ , (4 1/2" dia)with 2 barrel terminals, then it is likely a rare 9N10000A which requires an even more rare voltage regulator (not the later simple cut out). Purest collectors want those!

Wired like this: and where is your starter push button located?

This post was edited by JMOR on 07/20/2021 at 04:32 pm.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

The first '39 FORD 9N used a 2-Wire/2-Brush, 7A, 'B' Circuit Design GEN with a Voltage regulator. The Cutout came with next 9N-10000-B GEN that now had 1-Wire/3-Brushes, A Circuit Design and still 7A. This design was used all thru the rest of 9N and 2N production. The changes to the GEN next were a larger 11A unit with the 9N-10000-C GEN. The first two small barrel units are rare items to locate. The VR can use the FAG-10505 for the NAA as it is the same- B Circuit design but the mounting is different. SEE my document on early Ford 9N GENS & VR -email me for the LINK. See JMOR's Pictograms. If you have swapped out the OEM small GEN & VR for the later 1-Wire and cutout if you get your ESSENTIAL MANUALS out you can find the correct wiring schematic. You'd have to get a new wiring harness as well because the IGN LAMP and key switch are different as well. Contact Agri-Services in New York for quality harness. Just to be clear, the first early 1939 9N had several parts unique to that year. Some remained, some disappeared, and some others would be revamped over the 9N/2N production years,'39-'47. Early 9N parts had: 4-Spoke Steering Wheel; Small GEN w/VR; Chromed STANT cap and non-pressurized RAD; Snap-In battery door; gas tank port central; aluminum hood (first 800 units only); aluminum horizontal bar grille; 20/20 AMMETER (first 4000 units only); brass Sediment Bulb; double ribbed fenders; 9 x 32 rear closed bar tires; 7 x 32 loop rims (800 units only); smooth rear axle hubs; chromed throttle plate and shifter lever (4 only); 5/8 dia screw-on shifter lever ball; key switch on RH dash; IGN 'ON' lamp below AMMETER; HYD oil dipstick on shifter top cover; both brake pedals on LH side; to name a few and no 9N/2N tractor never had running boards or lights. Most of these items are hard to come by but repop alum grilles and 4-spoke steering wheels are available and are of decent quality. also, be aware the all 9N and 2N models had their serial numbers with a 9N prefix. Verify your s/n to see what year you have and study the MPC's to see what parts it would have had if'N ya wanna do a true restoration. Hold off on buying parts, especially anything made 'new' today. Get the manuals.

9N PICTOGRAMS:

ORIGINAL 9N-10000-A GEN AND 9N-10505 VR:

WIRING AFTER S/N 12500:

FORD TRACTOR 9N-10505-B CUTOUT:

2N-10181 BELT TENSIONER:

*NOTE: In 1943 FORD released the 2N-10000 GEN, virtually identical to the 9N-10000-B GEN except with an attached belt tensioner device. Also released was a kit to attach to a 9N-B GEN as shown.


FORD TRACTOR 9N/2N ESSENTIAL MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Shane Allen69]

Thanks so much for the excellent information !!! Will help me out tremendously. Measured generator and is 14.25 so the original must of went bad at some time and was replaced with the 9N-10000-B. So must of switched to a cut out also. How do you check the cutout to make sure it is working properly and also the generator to make sure it is good. Serial number on the engine is 9N8786*, so am pretty sure it is an early 1939, also has 4 spoke steering wheel. Thank you everyone for your help, trying to figure out 80 plus years of, well we'll just bypass this and add this is confusing.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 11:59:00 07/22/21)
Thanks so much for the excellent information !!! Will help me out tremendously. Measured generator and is 14.25 so the original must of went bad at some time and was replaced with the 9N-10000-B. So must of switched to a cut out also. How do you check the cutout to make sure it is working properly and also the generator to make sure it is good. Serial number on the engine is 9N8786*, so am pretty sure it is an early 1939, also has 4 spoke steering wheel. Thank you everyone for your help, trying to figure out 80 plus years of, well we'll just bypass this and add this is confusing.

N8786 puts it about 1941. Even the 9N10000B was small diameter, but did not have a barrel terminal. It would not be until the 8N tractors before generators once again had barrel terminals. If you have a variable DC power supply, you attach it to the cut out ARM/Gen terminal and slowly increase voltage until cut out contacts close and upon closing, voltage appears on BATT terminal. Closure should occur about 7 to 8.5 volts. Apply battery voltage to generator ARM (may have to apply ground to Field terminal) and then generator will act like electric motor and spin.

 

[Louis A]

9N8786 puts it about 1941.

Serial number 9N8786 makes it a 1939, not a 1941!

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:52:10 07/22/21)

9N8786 puts it about 1941.

Serial number 9N8786 makes it a 1939, not a 1941!

K, my mistake....I thought that he was indicating a missing number with the *
I mistakenly "assumed" that if his * was meant to be a star that there would have been one at beginning and another at end of serial number?? I know about a$$ u me

This post was edited by JMOR on 07/22/2021 at 03:54 pm.

 

[Shane Allen69]

No worries !!! Thought it was a 39 but was questioning myself. Still a long road to go. I deeply appreciate everyone's help and input !!! I'm sure I'll be posting more amateur questions.