SAWSALL BLADES

lenray

Well-known Member
Next spring my 2 son in laws and grandsons are going to take down a Mobile Home. Thinking of using the SAWSALL and cut into 5 ft. sections. What are the VERY BEST BLADES to use for this type of work????? Cost is not a factor. Probably run into nails and other bad s tuff. Will be removing the metal first.
 
These.

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I agree with Lenox Gold. they are tough. Purchase these and a few pure metal cutting blades for frame and pipes. The Demo blades are a marvel for wood and tin, but too course in pitch for thicker metal. Jim
 
Beside of all the other good suggestions Milwaukee sells one they call the torch. Which blades work best will depend somewhat in how they are used. Bimetal blades are tough but not forgiving of excess heat. Carbide tipped will take the heat and is extremely hard but it is also brittle thus you do not really wear one out in that application, the teeth get chipped and broken. Since money is not an object and maybe time is? I'd go rent a 14 cut off saw with a metal blade.
 
Tried a Torch the other day on some 1 inch pipes I needed to cut out of an old rim. Cut 36 of them and no noticeable wear on the teeth with it.
 
Most folks I see just smash / rip it apart with a backhoe, excavator, skid steer, etc. whatever is on hand. If it has a thumb or grapple even better for loading the remains into a dumpster or three. Less chance of personal injury than up close cutting too.
 
Have recently used Diablo thick metal and medium metal carbide blades with great results -- could not wear them out. In the past, I tried everyone's metal blades (Milwaukee, Hilti, DeWalt, Lenox, etc.) and could not get them to cut very much. Also, very good results recently with the Diablo carbide demo blade cutting up an old shed, roofing and all.
 
If price is not an option, why dont you go buy a pack of each and then report back to us which one works best for you that way I can save my money on the junk blades. And thanks in advance.
 
I bought 2 packs of Lexon demolition blades for a project, I twisted one ten minutes before I was done. Total blades used was 2. I have slalvaged one trailer and I saved or scraped 90% of it. The next one we walked through it with a track hoe, dug a hole and burned it as we went. #2 is the way to go if you can get away with it.
 
I watched a father, son and uncle demolish a trailer. They didn't use a sawsalls.
They removed the panelling from the inside walls. Pulled it off the studs. Removed the windows.
Kicked the aluminum siding off. Removed all interior walls, doors, cabinets, toilet, sink.

Then pull the roof sideways and the walls collapsed like a deck of cards. Don't remember if the removed the walls on the ends.

Then they pulled the remainder of the trailer to their place to finish the job.

They were done in one day.

They claimed they had demolished over 1000 trailers.

They didn't use a saw, just big hammers.
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They charged me $850 bucks and they hauled away the mess.

This was about 10 years ago.

I had to demolish the trailer because area planning wouldn't allow me to give it away and have it go down the road.
 
Lenox , Lenox the only brand I will buy. 40 years as an electrician and many jobs, Lenox lasted the longest with the most results. Last I bought was on Ebay free shipping.joe
 
Revisiting this thread...
All good replies.
The idea of a circular saw is interesting...
A couple cheap carbide blades in the circular saw might cut one up pretty quick too.
It won't go deep enough to cut all the way through an exterior wall but that may not be needed if the inside is drywall.
I would certainly bring that package along - skillsaw + a couple of new blades.
I get more life out of a fine tooth blade for that kind of stuff but they cost more.
You can do that math.
And take some photos for us.

504.
Your second recommendation would be my preferred way.


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