Salting the roads only eight times per winter would be a mild winter in SE MN.

Salt gets onto cars in the winter, but most of the rusting happens when the weather warms up. Heat and moisture speeds up the chemical reaction metal rusting.

Rinsing the underside of vehicles every Spring with clean water goes a long way to delay rusting on vehicles driven on salted roads. Wait until after Spring rains have rinsed all the salt of the roads then rinse off the underside of the chassis. The water in commercial car washes is recycled, by the month of May much of the salt is out of the recycled rinse water.
 
These Snake Oil type of questions draw as many OPINIONS as EV or Climate, Gas Prices or Solar lol

FWIW No more no less than anyone else

I've had good experience (50 years of RV plus farming and tractor dealer) and results with Sea Foam and would use it again

To each their own experiences and opinions. Hey if it actually works for someone, other OPINIONS really don't matter lol

John T
 
When it starts making a lot of noise one of the plastic timing chain tensioners have probably broke. It's a piece of plastic that's 16 years old that has been heated, cooled and heated again thousands of times.

I have avoided owning a 2004 to 2011 Ford with the 3 valve engines and haven't been too impressed with the 1997-2003 2 valve Triton engines. I currently own a V10 with (supposedly) 40K miles. The cost of repairs on those engines makes them hugely expensive to own when they get old. If you can't fix them labor costs are murder. Anything that requires a head get pulled means the whole front of the engine has to be opened up too because of the chain driven overhead cam.

I would go with solid/locked phasers if I was looking at that repair.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1154145-cam-phaser-lockout-installed-and-running-very-quite-2.html
 
The hydraulic lifter on a 20 hp Kohler
command was sticking. Easy to tell it was the left cylinder.

I put sea foam and ATF in gas and new oil.
Ran the engine hard for 30 minutes.

Something did the trick. Liquid overhaul.

Easier than overhauling engine.
Engine only has 2000 hours.
Still a good motor.
 
Hey if a product actually works Im happy because sometime it doesn't grrrrrrrrrrr

Take care good neighbor

John T
 
Lots of people have had bad luck with the 5 4 and 6.8 engines but that hasn't been the case with me. I had a 99 F250 5.4 that was never touched other than plugs and oil n filters and had 318,000 miles when I sold it and running well. Next was a 05 F250 5.4 that had 290,000 on it when it was hit and totalled. Current truck is a 2010 with a 6.8 that's over 225,000 now and never been touched other than routine maintanance and 3 sets of plugs. The only issue Ive had with all three was the twist off plugs that were in the 05 which is as you said a darn expensive repair at a dealer but I bought the tools and did it myself. and also the cam phasers on that one too. 800000 miles on 3 different modular engines and two repairs, I'm not going to complain.
 
I picked up the idea on a boating forum from some serious 2 cycle marine engine mechanics/racers/users. Use it all the time now in most all my engines as an upper cylinder lube and injector cleaner. For kicks I had nothing to do one day and had an old 3 hp 4 cycle lawn mower, a 2 cycle weed eater and something else in gas. Rejuvenated them and they came back to life.

The MSDS says that it.s light mineral oil, naptha and alcohol. The marine grade doesn't use alcohol; says so on the can but I didn't puill the MSDS on that. The naptha is the solvent that cleans up caked on fuel, alcohol helps to accumulate water in the fuel to reduce corrosion and the mineral oil is upper cylinder lube and in the aerosol is a starting fluid for 2 cycle engines since it has enough oil to lubricate those engines whereby starting fluid didn't and some manufacturer's may still be lacking.
 
seafoam been around long time.it will clean nasty carbs out. its not snake oil like def.
my little case tractors are shut down in fall .i make sure they run out of gas then i mix a 5 gallon can of gas n sea foam.put some in each tractor park em in the shed. come spring i never have trouble. another oil time product that works MARVEL MYSTERY OIL. i use it lots too. quiets ticking gummed up hydraulic lifters in engines that were ran too far between oil changes.
i also add i part kerosene to 3 parts marvel mystery oil use for penetrating oil.
on rusty metals add some stp to my mix wipe on heavy n week later most rust is gone. my gunsmith showed me that on a rusty neglected fire arm
 
It does desolve carbon like carb cleaner. I used it in the 560 to soak out precombustion cups in the head . Did free them totally ,no but it helped.
I did fog the truck with it on recommendation of a GM mechanic said they did it to cleanup Catalytic Converter s customer said they liked the improvements in gas mileage . Get one of those kits following can instructions . Dont do it when the neighbors are having a bbq cause it will fog heavy smoke , wind from favor able direction at all cost .
All I know today
 
Randy, I bought a '99 Saturn SL1 in 2013 as a second car, and it would barely pull itself along. Dumped a can of Seafoam in the gas tank and after about a 10 mile drive it suddenly started pulling like a champ! Kept it till last year when the underside rusted out and sold it to a junkyard...
 
I've been buying the Rural King store brand version of Sea Foam.

Label reads the same. No chemical analysis, but it smells like and lubricity feels the same as Sea Foam....how's that for scientific?

Did I mention it's $3.49/ bottle vs $8.49?

It did free up a sticky lifter in a 98 Ranger. Ran it with a bottle of the Providence stuff, ticking went away after 50 miles or so. Changed the oil, all is well.
mvphoto105262.jpg
 
I'm happy to hear it worked for you. I've used it without success on various gummed-up carburetors.

I wonder if your results would have been any different if you'd used a pint of kerosene, for example. I don't think there are any magic ingredients in SeaFoam, it's mostly solvent.
 
I don't know if kerosene would have worked or not. Back in the early 70s when I hauled milk, the guy who owned the trucks used to drain the oil, refill it with fuel oil, then start it up for a few minutes. He'd drain it, change the filter and oil. He never toasted it.
 
I know you can, but never needed to try in the oil. Between it and rec. fuel I have eliminated nearly all carb. problems in my old tractors and small engines (with tractors, generators, weed whips, chainsaws, snowmobiles, wave runners,boats, motorcycles, mopeds and minibike, were talking at least 40 engines). And yes, I have way too many toys.
 
You guys just talked me in to trying it in the gas on my Yamaha Moto 4. That thing about drives me to distraction until it warms up. It's hard to even get it out of the barn in the morning. I just put some in it and let it run for a minute. I'll let it sit until I have to go out and check cows later this afternoon. We'll see if it helps.
 

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