Shopping for an older ~65-85hp tractor...

[Siorus]

Hi guys,

I'm looking to buy a tractor around 65-85hp (pto, not crank) to handle stuff that my BX2200 doesn't have the power/ground clearance/traction to take care of.

90% of my use will consist of running a 6ft+ (ideally 8ft+) brush hog and/or flail mower on about 18 acres of lawn and pasture. Other than that, it'll see some use running a PTO chipper, and possibly a splitter. Down the road I may use it for tilling/plowing/etc, but not in the immediate future.

Looking at what's available for sale locally-ish to me right now, my options are:
[list:ffc0222d10]
[*:ffc0222d10]Allis Chalmers 185
[*:ffc0222d10]Allis Chalmers 6080
[*:ffc0222d10]Case 1490
[*:ffc0222d10]Ford 5600
[*:ffc0222d10]Ford 5610
[*:ffc0222d10]Ford 6610
[*:ffc0222d10]Ford 7710
[*:ffc0222d10]IH 684
[*:ffc0222d10]John Deere 2440
[*:ffc0222d10]John Deere 2640
[*:ffc0222d10]White 2-75
[/list:u:ffc0222d10]
What's your opinion of those specific tractors?

I grew up in the city; I hadn't been within probably 300ft of a tractor of any type until I bought the BX. So, I don't really have a good feel for who made good equipment, or if there are any specific models, eras or features that are particularly good or particularly bad.

I'm aware these are all older machines that are going to need some work; I'm ok with getting my hands dirty, but I'm not sure what parts availability is going to be like on a 30-50 year old tractor.

Given that these[i:ffc0222d10] are[/i:ffc0222d10] all older machines, how many hours can I expect these things to do between engine rebuilds, transmission rebuilds, etc.? Obviously it's highly variable based on use/abuse, maintenance, etc., but as a very general guideline? Is it safe to assume that a tractor with 5,000hrs on it is probably worn out? 10k? 20k?

Also, how useful do you find having a bucket loader on a tractor to be? As I understand it, they don't really have the weight or the structural integrity to do any serious digging, and I can only think of a handful of use cases (light duty forklift, handling hay bales if I get cows/horses, hauling gravel for my driveway, that's about it) for one. I'm trying to decide how important having one is to me (if it is at all), and I want to make sure I'm not overlooking some uses for it.

And lastly, what is the availability of aftermarket ROPS like, in general? My property is fairly hilly, and several of the tractors I have in mind are open stations with no rollover protection, which kinda gives me the heebie jeebies.

Thanks.

 

[caterpillar guy]

A loader is an irreplaceable piece of equipment. You will find uses for it daily if you have a good loader. The Ih you mentioned can have spindle problems if you have a big bucket on it and fill it up every time. We have had an older model of the same tractor the 574.
A mfwd (mechanical front wheel drive) would be a good start for a loader tractor. It just makes things easier to do with a loader.
I have heard about some issues with the deere models you have listed. Not sure just what they were now. The fords are lighter tractors weight wise if you need a heavy tractor. You can put weight on them also.
What do you have for dealers around you. That might make the most difference in what you buy. As far as parts go all of them listed have a pretty ample parts supply available currently.
We are still farming with some of the vintage you list there and older. Newest tractor is the 2940. Oldest is 50's models.

 

[Siorus]

I think I have all the dealers covered; there are AGCO, New Holland and Deere dealers within 50 miles or so of me. I don't know that any of them will service anything this old; I'll have to make some phone calls. But they should be able to get parts, if they're available.

Any kind of 4wd would be nice to have, but it doesn't appear to be common on this size of tractor around here. There's a 7710 with mfwd locally that's an option, but the thing looks a little rough and I'm concerned about the size/weight, because I'm going to use this thing to mow my lawn. Not immediately around the house (not eager to drive a 3 ton+ tractor over my septic/well plumbing) but on my lawn, and I figure the 7710 can weigh up to about 11000#, which is plenty to make a mess of my lawn.

 

[WayneLee]

My choice would be the Ford 6610 or the 7710

 

[495man]

Ford or IH, what ever is best condition for the $$$

 

[Ken Macfarlane]

Agreed, those Ford and IH models are generally great
investments for utility tractors.

 

[Bruce from Can.]

the Fords and IH are good enough tractors, but Fiat now owns their parent company, so going forward parts
will be more of a problem. If you step up to the nest series in the Ford line ,5640 6640 and 7740 , they
won't really cost much more . and were common in 4wd. The 84 series IH tractors can really drive you nuts
with hydraulic woes. I won't comment on the other brands much , because I have not owned one personally.
These were all good solid tractors when new. The mechanics that worked on these tractors when new have for
the most part retired , and have taken their knowledge with them. As in the IH company Case bought up the IH
brand way back in 1986 , 32 years now since a new IH tractor was made, just a thought.

 

[centash]

Out of that list my choice would be the Ford 6600 series or the larger Deere model to
get you over the 65 hp range. Both are good durable easy to operate, user friendly,
good dealer support and parts availability. Both will last 10000 hours plus with
some care. Deere may have a bit better front wheel drive, and easier to find a
compatible loader for. Condition and maintenance history should be your main
considerations on any of those in your list. Happy shopping!
Ben

 

[Butch(OH)]

Only one I have experience with is the 185, they were among the best A-C ever built. The biggest complaint from non-Allis folks is the lack of an independent PTO. It is live with the hand clutch but not truly independent. Its a nonissue with Allis people who are used to using the hand clutch. The other issue is parts, everything you need is available from AGCO, aftermarket or used but its a bit tedious compared to just running over the the green and yellow store. If you look at the 185 be sure to operate it in all gears long enough to be sure it stays in gear both under load and coasting. Also load the engine with the power director in both high and low range, easiest done in high gear. A 185 in good shape is a dandy tractor but you dont want a gear jumper or one with a slipping power director unless it is REAL cheap.

 

[blue_tractor_man]

I have a 64 Ford 4000 gas, 2wd, (45 hp) and
a John Deere 2755 diesel, 2wd, (75 hp). I
started out with 8 acres of horse pasture.
The 4000 plus a boom pole did 99% of what I
needed to do. It will easily pull a 6 foot
bushhog or a 7 foot finih mower. I then
bought 75 acres of woods and trails. The
4000 was not quite enough any more. I then
bought the 2755 and a 15 foot bat wing
bushhog. The 2755 will handle it easily. I
do not have a front end loader. I don't
really care to have the thing hanging iff
the front of my tractor all of the time.
I'd rather have a friend with a FEL than
have one myself. I think you will find
parts pretty easy to obtain on any name
brand tractor in the 50-75 hp class. I have
a Kawasaki Mule with a dump bed that I find
to be super handy. If I had 18 acres and a
couple of horses I would have the Mule and
then some sort of tractor to mow grass. I
think you will find with the Mule (or other
UTV), you will seldom use the tractor. If
you have a gravel driveway you will need a
box blade or something similar. I will grab
the Ford for most small jobs because it us
so handy, but I really like the JD with cab
and AC for hours of bushhogging. Oh yeah,
another advantage of a smaller tractor is
you can haul it on a standard 16 foot
trailer. Welcome to the forum!

 

[Ultradog MN]

I agree with your comments on the loader being a pia about half the time and there being work arounds if you don't have one.
If at least half of your tasks require a loader then get one. If not, skip the loader. Having more than one tractor, one of which is dedicated to loader work is best of course. But for a guy with One tractor you will hate the loader.

 

[allisfan]

Own a AC 185 and I agree with the other comments, almost bullet proof tractor, and I love the hi/low with the neutral in between. Great mid size tractor, I know a guy who raves about his White and I have run a 5000 ford which was a good tractor, don't know much about the other models you have listed.

 

[WNYBill]

My situation is very similar to yours. I have a 50 hp FWD compact with a loader and
wouldn't part with it. Loader is used for everything, wouldn't be without one. But,
you do need FWD for a loader to work.

We also have a AC 6060 for the heavy lifting. 20 hp less then the 6080 and a very
comfortable tractor.... best engine Allis ever built but the tractor is a Fiat so
parts and repair can be a problem. The Fords are pricey in our area, but are a good
tractor. Make sure the rubber is good on anything you buy and that everything works.
In our area the Allis or the White would be the best bang for the buck......if it is
in good shape.

Bill

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 23:50:59 04/03/18) Hi guys,

I'm looking to buy a tractor around 65-85hp (pto, not crank) to handle stuff that my BX2200 doesn't have the power/ground clearance/traction to take care of.

90% of my use will consist of running a 6ft+ (ideally 8ft+) brush hog and/or flail mower on about 18 acres of lawn and pasture. Other than that, it'll see some use running a PTO chipper, and possibly a splitter. Down the road I may use it for tilling/plowing/etc, but not in the immediate future.

Looking at what's available for sale locally-ish to me right now, my options are:
[list:5d680430ab]
[*:5d680430ab]Allis Chalmers 185
[*:5d680430ab]Allis Chalmers 6080
[*:5d680430ab]Case 1490
[*:5d680430ab]Ford 5600
[*:5d680430ab]Ford 5610
[*:5d680430ab]Ford 6610
[*:5d680430ab]Ford 7710
[*:5d680430ab]IH 684
[*:5d680430ab]John Deere 2440
[*:5d680430ab]John Deere 2640
[*:5d680430ab]White 2-75
[/list:u:5d680430ab]
What's your opinion of those specific tractors?

I grew up in the city; I hadn't been within probably 300ft of a tractor of any type until I bought the BX. So, I don't really have a good feel for who made good equipment, or if there are any specific models, eras or features that are particularly good or particularly bad.

I'm aware these are all older machines that are going to need some work; I'm ok with getting my hands dirty, but I'm not sure what parts availability is going to be like on a 30-50 year old tractor.

Given that these[i:5d680430ab] are[/i:5d680430ab] all older machines, how many hours can I expect these things to do between engine rebuilds, transmission rebuilds, etc.? Obviously it's highly variable based on use/abuse, maintenance, etc., but as a very general guideline? Is it safe to assume that a tractor with 5,000hrs on it is probably worn out? 10k? 20k?

Also, how useful do you find having a bucket loader on a tractor to be? As I understand it, they don't really have the weight or the structural integrity to do any serious digging, and I can only think of a handful of use cases (light duty forklift, handling hay bales if I get cows/horses, hauling gravel for my driveway, that's about it) for one. I'm trying to decide how important having one is to me (if it is at all), and I want to make sure I'm not overlooking some uses for it.

And lastly, what is the availability of aftermarket ROPS like, in general? My property is fairly hilly, and several of the tractors I have in mind are open stations with no rollover protection, which kinda gives me the heebie jeebies.

Thanks.

I agree with the Fords as well. Those that you list were very high production tractors with most still working, so it is more likely that parts will continue to be available. So far as the dealer, in my opinion, they will not really be interested in your business, even though the employees are trained to not let it show. I have relied upon this site and Messick's in Elizabethtown PA for my parts. They have a very big on line parts business so they carry a big inventory. Buying parts there is much faster than from my local dealer.

 

[Hay hay hay]

I purposely decided I did not want a FEL hanging out in front of me all the time. I agree with the guys that say it is unnecessary and may be more of a PITA than asset. A $150 boom pole will do most of your lifting jobs.

 

[buickanddeere]

Older is not always cheaper .

 

[ss55]

If you are not in snow country a loader may not be a necessity if you have other alternatives. A loader with a wide snow bucket is handy for moving snow. Quick attach loaders can be removed or installed in under 5 minutes.

Your state may have a safety program that will pay some of the cost of a new ROPS, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of the $1,500 cost? An ROPS is most effective if you were a seat belt. Without a seat belt an operator will most likely be thrown off the tractor and could be crushed by the ROPS. Operator care and situation awareness are important for roll-over safety. Just like getting stuck in mud, slick conditions can drastically change where it is safe to drive from one day to another.

 

[DoubleR]

From what you have listed I'd go with one of the Fords. Well built, durable and dependable along with dealer and parts availability are my reasons.

 

[DeltaRed]

A lot of (most of them)loaders these days are 'quik tach'. You can remove or install in 5 min or less.Trouble is that most guys are too lazy to do that,so the loader stays on all the time.Your neighbors are eventually going to get tired of you borrowing their loader.It's not their job to supply you with a loader.They probably wont tell you,but they really don't want to let out their loader.What happen when you break it?you should either buy your own loader,or a separate (dedicated) 'loader tractor'.They want to be a good neighbor and don't have the heart to say "NO".I have a 'quik tach' on my Super M.I can install(or remove) it in about the same length of time as a 3point implement.when it's time to farm,the loader comes off.

 

[Texasmark1]

Local ad for a MF 165, '70-'75 vintage, 2000 hrs, looks sharp, individual, $5500 delivered. My thoughts exactly. Even though it looked like
a great older midrange tractor, lots of new amenities, my thoughts were the years since built and the damage time has done. I passed.

 

[rrlund]

I don't usually advise against a White,but I'd stay away from that one. It's built by Iseki and they weren't a real source of pride.

I don't know how much clearance you'll have with the 2640 Deere,but they were made in the US and were a great design. Parts might be your only issue on that one. Last time I tried to get anything for the 1020 I had,it wasn't available from Deere anymore,they said they'd have to get it from A&I.

 

[2underage]

I am surprised that no one mentioned this yet but any old tractor will need a lot of maintaining and , often minor, repairs that are no problem to those with experience and knowledge of old tractors but can be a nightmare for the novice. I would suggest that for your requirements that you look for a newer tractor.

Perhaps you should even look at a new tractor. I know that a John Deere, Ford or Case/IH might break the bank but some of the lesser known brands are more affordable and many have a good reputation and dealer support. Most can be had with 4 wheel drive and a front loader that can be easily removed when not needed. Not to mention any brands but one advertises that they are the worlds most sold tractor and they are known to be reliable. There seems to be a dealer on every corner for that brand.

My first choice would be a Kubota but they do not come cheap.

You mentioned a ROP not being on the used tractors but they can be installed on nearly any tractor and there is some aid offered to share the cost of having one installed.

 

[jddrawbar]

JD 2240 would be my choice....

 

[tomstractorsandtoys]

My pick would be the 2440 or 2640. There is nothing bad about the 10 series Fords either. Do not buy the Allis or the white. Deere will have the best parts support and sooner or latter you will need parts. Tom

 

[sotxbill]

(quoted from post at 05:29:12 04/04/18) the Fords and IH are good enough tractors, but Fiat now owns their parent company, so going forward parts
will be more of a problem. If you step up to the nest series in the Ford line ,5640 6640 and 7740 , they
won't really cost much more . and were common in 4wd.

I say the opposite as the 40 series requires mostly dealer parts and the earlier series ford has a HUGE aftermarket parts availability. The 5000, 5600, 5610 through 7000-7710 series have a huge market share in numbers sold world wide, and therefore a huge aftermarket parts availability. The later 7710 through the ts 110 series does have a much quieter cab. Stay away from any electric shift like the sle. The sl "manual" series is bullet proof. I NEVER have to go to the dealer for parts on the early models. NEVER.... 40 series and newer, its opposite.

BTW.. a ford 4000 runs an 8 foot shredder really well at 48 to 52 pto hp pending on year.

 

[jacksun65]

I would say the john deeres if money is no problem, best parts support ect. Ford if the price is right decent parts especially aftermarket lots cheaper
less complicated.

 

[LarryH]

2-85 white hands down and we have run all brands

 

[rrlund]

I agree there Larry. It wasn't on the list like the 2-75 was,but it might be best to revise the list and go looking for one. Or even look for a 2-70 for that matter. It wouldn't have the Perkins engine or closed center hydraulics,but a decent tractor none the less.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

I'd narrow the list down some and then look for the tractor in the best shape for the money I could find.Will say all those tractors are pretty big for only 18 acres to cover.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 06:56:14 04/04/18) I am surprised that no one mentioned this yet but any old tractor will need a lot of maintaining and , often minor, repairs that are no problem to those with experience and knowledge of old tractors but can be a nightmare for the novice. I would suggest that for your requirements that you look for a newer tractor.

Perhaps you should even look at a new tractor. I know that a John Deere, Ford or Case/IH might break the bank but some of the lesser known brands are more affordable and many have a good reputation and dealer support. Most can be had with 4 wheel drive and a front loader that can be easily removed when not needed. Not to mention any brands but one advertises that they are the worlds most sold tractor and they are known to be reliable. There seems to be a dealer on every corner for that brand.

My first choice would be a Kubota but they do not come cheap.

You mentioned a ROP not being on the used tractors but they can be installed on nearly any tractor and there is some aid offered to share the cost of having one installed.

2underage, don't be surprised. Not only did he specify an older tractor, but we are on an old tractor site :?

 

[Bill VA]

Ford, any of those models. IH 684 if the parking brake is working.

Above all else, make sure you have someone in mind that can work on them - externally and internally.

 

[Billy NY]

Mid-late 90s Ford models are not a bad buy at this time. I was able to get a low hour 4630, front wheel assist, 1215 hours for just over 10k. It needed a lot of little things repaired, but nothing major. I did all the repairs myself so far, complete service on it, now just turn the key and do regular maintenance. Has fold down ROPS, no loader, but my heavy duty rear blade takes care of the snow removal and a light weight 3 pt boom pole for lifting things. I need a newer loader tractor myself and figure a dedicated tractor is best for my needs. Good dealer/parts support from a current CNH dealer that sold these new, I can get out of stock parts in 3-4 days depending on when I order.

 

[2002sliverado]

I would want to consider availability and convenience of parts and service as a part of this decision, too. You could include a Belarus or other alternative brand, but if you cannot find some place which will provide parts and service support, you are dead in the water. It has been extremely rare when I have had a tractor break down while being stored in a shed. Come to think of it, I don't think I have ever had something fail when it wasn't in use. In most cases, I needed to get the job done when I was using the tractor and encountered a break down. I was either able to repair it rather quickly, or had access to another tractor I could use in the meantime.

If you are in hilly country, low profile and a wide tread stance will improve stability. I suspect you can find ROPS for most of what you have cited, but I have never looked myself for one. Ford, IH/Case IH, Deere, or White are probably going to be the most logical choices. The 1490 Case, I suspect might be on the rare side, with parts and support being rather thin. In the case of the Allis Chalmers, it is getting harder to find dealerships in our area who offer parts and support. I suppose the same could also be said about White, too.

 

[Siorus]

[i:bfe0d5eee6]I had a lengthy reply typed up quoting a couple of important points that I wanted to address specifically, but unfortunately that post won't go through; I'm getting an error that I'm using an unsupported character somewhere, which I'm not. So I'm going to attempt to post that post as several smaller posts. I apologize in advance, I don't mean to spam the thread, I just can't get this to post as one post.[/i:bfe0d5eee6]

------------

Thanks for all the input guys, I appreciate it. It looks like the general consensus is that they're all decent machines but the Fords and the Deeres are probably going to be the least hassle to keep running.

I do like that Allis 185, mainly because it's got an i6, and I [b:bfe0d5eee6]really[/b:bfe0d5eee6] have a problem with i4s and i3s; they don't (can't, in fact) run as smoothly and I don't care for the sound. I'm not sure yet if that's worth the potential hassle with getting parts; I'm inclined to think that it's not, given that this will be a tool first and foremost and thus I mainly need it to work.

One of my buddies is very insistent that JD parts will make my BMWs look cheap to keep on the road, so that's kinda pushing me toward the Fords. Since none of these machines are inherently garbage, I suppose I'll have to go kick some tires and see what kind of condition they're in.

The biggest complaint from non-Allis folks is the lack of an independent PTO. It is live with the hand clutch but not truly independent. (...) If you look at the 185 be sure to operate it in all gears long enough to be sure it stays in gear both under load and coasting. Also load the engine with the power director in both high and low range, easiest done in high gear

I'm afraid I haven't got enough experience with tractors to fully understand what you're saying. How can the PTO not be independent if there's a hand clutch for it? Is the power director just the range selector for the gearbox, or is this a separate control? And with respect to popping out of gear, if it's a problem, is it likely to show up just driving back and forth on a dealer's lot? I mean I can try to induce it by accelerating abruptly and lifting abruptly to shock load the gearbox, but I won't be able to put the thing under a heavy load unless I buy it.

 

[Siorus]

(...)Will say all those tractors are pretty big for only 18 acres to cover.

I totally agree. For mowing 18 acres (property itself is 40, still small), these are probably unreasonably large machines. There's two reasons I'm looking at stuff this size:
[list:bc1f70f0f3]
[*:bc1f70f0f3] I'd really, really like a cab (mainly so I'm not swatting horseflies with one hand and steering with the other come August), and they're even harder to find around here on smaller tractors
[*:bc1f70f0f3] There's very little that irritates me more than finding out that I don't have enough power. An 8-10ft flail or rotary mower, according to most manufacturers, requires a minimum of 50 horsepower. I figure being in the ballpark of 75 will be sufficiently excessive that the thing will pull that mower around and through just about anything like it's not even there, which is exactly what I expect out of my equipment.
[/list:u:bc1f70f0f3]

 

[Siorus]

I am surprised that no one mentioned this yet but any old tractor will need a lot of maintaining(...)

This is a fair point.

I fully expect anything that's 30 or more years old to require a fair bit of work and expense to get it back to like-new condition (and I don't have the patience for any less than that).

The thing is, if tractors are like cars, a 1995 with 2500 hours on it is [b:b54e34f828]also[/b:b54e34f828] going to need attention. Heck, the Kubota has 400 hours on it and [b:b54e34f828]it[/b:b54e34f828] needed work. People don't take care of their stuff.

I'm just not sure that the additional expense of a newer machine is going to pay off in terms of a lower total investment, nor am I sure that I'll end up with something of comparable quality when I'm done.

I did consider a new machine. I can't justify the expense of a new 70hp tractor for what, with my use case, amounts to a lawnmower. I've also had my fill of HPFP issues, DEF issues and DPF issues with my Duramax and my diesel VW and I'm not interested in dealing with a tractor with a modern, pollution-controlled, common rail diesel.

With respect to the ROPS, have you got any recommendations for manufacturers making retrofits, or do I just find someone local to weld something up or...?

 

[Siorus]

[i:ac86aaeac5]Last post, and again, I'm sorry for the spam. Something in the post before this one that I managed to edit out (not sure what) was throwing an error.[/i:ac86aaeac5]

-----

2-85 white hands down and we have run all brands

You know, it's funny that you and rrlund both mentioned this. Because [b:ac86aaeac5]what I really, really [i:ac86aaeac5]want[/i:ac86aaeac5] is a White 2-85 or even 2-105[/b:ac86aaeac5] (my understanding is they're the same frame and engine, just different states of tune?), or one of the 6cyl early-mid '70s Olivers; an 1855 or thereabouts.

My concern with these machines is twofold: One, that I'm going to be driving this thing on my lawn. Not pasture. [i:ac86aaeac5]Lawn[/i:ac86aaeac5]. And I think a 12,000#(?) tractor will absolutely [i:ac86aaeac5]destroy[/i:ac86aaeac5] my yard. And two, I can DIY a clutch replacement on a 6000# tractor if I have to. I feel like something of this size is a whole different ballgame. If I'm wrong, and I can get parts for the Whites (or the Olivers) still, I'll happily track one down.

 

[VicS]

I bought a 6060 Allis new in 83. Has 7000
plus hrs. My wife made me get a cab. Best
investment we ever made. Still going
strong. Have a 50 hp Jd with loader hydro
and cab. Also 4x4. Use it all the time. I
would look for a 6610 with cab and air. Or
buy a new Kubota. They have 5 yrs no
intrest.

 

[Hay hay hay]

My neighbor just retired and sold his farm. He has a White 2-105 2wd cab tractor in the shed. He wants to sell it. Central Kentucky. Interested?

 

[Nick m]

I've been around 2 2640's. Both darn good tractors. In laws have one with 20k+ hours on the original engine. Was on a feed wagon most it's life. Very reliable, but did go though it's fair share of clutches with all the stop/go/clutch riding. Second one has only put 500ish hours on it since they bought it. They use it as a utility tractor with a loader around their hobby farm. Been good. Peppy little tractors. They do seem to push the hot air off the engine on you on a hot day for some reason, but not a deal breaker.

 

[wolfman]

Most all on that list are/were good tractors. They are 40ish years old, so condition is everything. The IH 684 would be choice as likely the smoothest, quietest, most nimble of the bunch.Plus, if you ever want a loader the 684 is a natural for that with the
2250 quick-attach readily available. None of those 40 year old tractors would likely have a comfy cab.

 

[formenwhogrow]

White 2-85 or 2-105 gets my vote all day.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

Because they have a tub frame the White's and Olivers are some of the easiest tractors to pull the engines and replace clutches.Since you don't want a tractor as heavy as the 2-85 but want a 6 cylinder then you might want to look at a 1655 Oliver or a 2-70 White they're great tractors and easy to work on and run pretty cheap too.

 

[rrlund]

I wouldn't worry the least about getting parts. AGCO or aftermarket,same day or next day is about guaranteed on most anything you'd ever need. Yes,both are basically the same tractor. Those engines are heavy and I don't know why they should be. I've had the 354 out of my 1850 a few times and it didn't seem so bad. Then I pulled the 478 out of my 2-135 twice and that thing was ridiculously heavy. I had to put a clutch in the 2-105 and pulled that 354 and it seemed as heavy as the 478. The loader on the 1365 seemed to struggle a lot more than it did with the 354 in the 1850.

 

[Siorus]

(quoted from post at 18:26:08 04/04/18) My neighbor just retired and sold his farm. He has a White 2-105 2wd cab tractor in the shed. He wants to sell it. Central Kentucky. Interested?

Let me give it some thought, I might be, yeah. I need to figure out if I can get away with driving a 6 ton tractor around in my yard without destroying it, and I also need to make up my mind for sure on what I want.

I mean, I don't live on a golf course or anything, it's not manicured or whatever. But I don't really want to put ruts all over my yard, either. I know I can get away with 8000# if it's dry, because that's about what my truck weighs; I don't know about 50% more. Maybe duals would help?

(And I do realize the inherent absurdity of mowing 18 acres of pasture with a 100 horse tractor when most people would probably use something half this size, but I [i:8e849698cc]really, really like[/i:8e849698cc] having a [i:8e849698cc]lot[/i:8e849698cc] of power)


On another note, how's the AGCO-era Allis equipment, like the 7600?

And it occurs to me, the better question to ask at this point might be "is there anything in the ~65-100hp range that's especially problematic or which I definitely shouldn't buy, under any circumstances?"

 

[Siorus]

Well, I figured I'd post an update on what I ended up deciding on.

I just bought a '79 Ford 6600, about 4500 hours. Sold new by the dealer I bought it from. Cab, heat, a/c, radio. Needs some work; they just did an a/c compressor on it but the a/c system is still not working correctly, and it appears to be weeping oil out of the head gasket (I'm hoping that it's [i:994caf6059]just[/i:994caf6059] an external oil leak).

In any case, it starts easily and sounds healthy, appears to run fine in all gears (at least without a load on it), the clutch and brakes feel fine, it even still had the factory threaded PTO shaft cover on it, so. Overall, I think it's a decent machine.

I would have been much, much happier with something with 4wd because I feel it makes for a safer machine by way of increased stability under braking. But that just wasn't going to happen given what I wanted to spend and how far I was willing to drive to look at stuff.

I should probably start a new thread for this, but, question:
Does the factory cab on the 6600 function as a ROPS? It was my understanding that it does, based on some of my reading, but the machine has no seatbelt and I had someone today very emphatically insist that it is [i:994caf6059]not[/i:994caf6059] a ROPS, and the pillars certainly look a little flimsy up close.

 

[showcrop]

Congratulations on your 6600. Yes it does! The total cab frame serves as a ROPS. The Ford Q cab is also known to retain its strength better than some others. It would be wise though to pull your floor and liner back and inspect it at the top and bottom, and apply rust converter if you find significant rust. From my own experience and from my reading here, AC problems on old tractors are often caused by plugged receiver-driers. All AC systems will eventually leak, and one application of AC stop leak will plug the receiver-dryer.