short block for a fordson dexta

[Melshel]

I have a 1958 fordson dexta. The engine locked up last winter. My research indicates that the Massey Ferguson 35 used the same engine except a different fuel pump and a lip seal rather than a rope seal as a rear engine seal. I note that Farm Parts Store has a lip seal perkins 3.152 short block that fits many applications such as the MF 35 and 135 but they do not list the dexta as an application. From what I can tell there is no reason this short block would not work for my dexta apart from my need to purchase a rear engine seal (lip seal) since my rope seal mounting bracket will not fit a block designed for a lip seal. A rear engine lip seal assembled unit is available online. Does anyone know if there is any reason the short block I am thinking to purchase might not work for my 1958 fordson dexta???

 

[SkipperII]

I have a 1958 fordson dexta. The engine locked up last winter. My research indicates that the Massey Ferguson 35 used the same engine except a different fuel pump and a lip seal rather than a rope seal as a rear engine seal. I note that Farm Parts Store has a lip seal perkins 3.152 short block that fits many applications such as the MF 35 and 135 but they do not list the dexta as an application. From what I can tell there is no reason this short block would not work for my dexta apart from my need to purchase a rear engine seal (lip seal) since my rope seal mounting bracket will not fit a block designed for a lip seal. A rear engine lip seal assembled unit is available online. Does anyone know if there is any reason the short block I am thinking to purchase might not work for my 1958 fordson dexta???

You might want to address your question to Majorman. I seem to remember him saying the Dexta engine is NOT a Perkins, but I don't remember the particulars.

 

[Majorman]

The short block should work but be prepared, you may need a lot of other bits to get it to fit. As Skip says, it will not be a Fordson engine assembled by Perkins, there are some improvements like the lipped seal.

 

[Melshel]

Thanks, Gentlemen- I am from Pennsylvania, USA. -I note that these short blocks are aftermarket productions that are manufactured in England. According to websites, Vintage Tractor in England (see site below) a rope seal short block can be purchased in England for 900 pounds or somewhere around $1350.00. I assume shipping costs would be prohibitive?? I can buy the same short block in the USA except the rope seal is replaced with a lip seal for $1850.00. I note that Majorman is from England. Question for you: Though Perkins is not the builder of this short block is it your sense that the Perkins quality is similar?

https://www.acornservicestractorpar...tches_and_Parts_____span_________span___.html

 

[Majorman]

Just checked in my Agriline parts book and they give a different part number for the Dexta block to the M-F block, both with a rope seal. I have not used one myself but have friends that have and most say they change to the lipped seal, I will do some more checking. The Agriline blocks require a set of head studs and they have changed the "lift pump" but I think they mean oil pump as that was a problem with the Dexta one no longer being available. We were having to change that back in the day when I was working on them.

If I am honest, the Perkins block seems to be a better quality than the Ford one. The Ford block had a weak casting behind the injection pump and these failed in the slightest frost if antifreeze not used. After market blocks are fine.

What is wrong with your original block? New liners are available and even with fitting and boring, it would be much more cost effective to repair it. Cranks can be re-ground with no problem.

 

[Melshel]

Good question about my original block. A number of issues have pushed me toward thinking short block. It is a 3.144 engine that has been bored out to the max. My Dad bought this tractor in 1960 and overhauled it at least twice if not three times. I grew up on it. The block cracked more than 40 years ago. My brother who was a professional welder at the time, welded it. It has not caused any trouble at all. I do not have the crankshaft out of the engine, but I have things disassembled far enough to note that rod bearings 2 and 3 are spun. It appears that none of the mains even heated up. That does indicate that the block may be fine except that it has been welded. I wondered if boring and lining the cylinders might cause problems with the cracked/welded block. Do you have an opinion on the wisdom of going ahead with boring and lining the cylinder walls? The other issue is the crankshaft. I know that it has been ground to at least .020 undersize and maybe more. I will have to mic it to confirm. At any rate, I think I will likely need to replace it. It looks like new ones run $400 plus or minus a little. Other than that, the engine seems sound. Of course, I will need at least 2 new connecting rods. All things taken into account, I began to consider a short block and liked the idea of going to a lip seal rather than a rope seal. (This tractor has been notorious for real engine seal problems.)

Thank you for your kind advice.

 

[Majorman]

Good question about my original block. A number of issues have pushed me toward thinking short block. It is a 3.144 engine that has been bored out to the max. My Dad bought this tractor in 1960 and overhauled it at least twice if not three times. I grew up on it. The block cracked more than 40 years ago. My brother who was a professional welder at the time, welded it. It has not caused any trouble at all. I do not have the crankshaft out of the engine, but I have things disassembled far enough to note that rod bearings 2 and 3 are spun. It appears that none of the mains even heated up. That does indicate that the block may be fine except that it has been welded. I wondered if boring and lining the cylinders might cause problems with the cracked/welded block. Do you have an opinion on the wisdom of going ahead with boring and lining the cylinder walls? The other issue is the crankshaft. I know that it has been ground to at least .020 undersize and maybe more. I will have to mic it to confirm. At any rate, I think I will likely need to replace it. It looks like new ones run $400 plus or minus a little. Other than that, the engine seems sound. Of course, I will need at least 2 new connecting rods. All things taken into account, I began to consider a short block and liked the idea of going to a lip seal rather than a rope seal. (This tractor has been notorious for real engine seal problems.)

Thank you for your kind advice.

I would have no concerns about the block, it will not need boring as it has dry sleeves which can be pressed out and replaced. Any boring needed would be to allow the block to accept the 152 sleeves, as they were the same block, Dexta and Super Dexta, that will be no problem. You will need new pistons however if you go to the larger size. Rods can be checked and trued. Do not go buying new ones until these have been condemned. The sleeves will need boring lightly to bring them to size.

Where is the block welded? If in the usual place, behind the injection pump, I do not foresee any problems.

We used to take the cranks to 0.040" without any problems, the deciding factor would be what size shells you can get.
Agriline, over here do a complete engine overhaul kit of liners, pistons seals, gaskets, valves and springs at a very reasonable price. Check with our hosts on this site and see what they offer. Your pricing is about right for a new crank and all the bearings to go with it.

 

[Majorman]

Update. Had a reply from a contact who put an M-F block with lipped seal into a Dexta last week. Had to modify the Dexta sump at the rear to fit it around the seal housing. He says he had to remove about an inch and made a profile of an M-F sump he just happened to have.

 

[Melshel]

Hmmm... The block was cracked exactly where you said the weak point is at; behind the injection pump. You almost have me convinced to go ahead and sleeve the old block since that weld has held quite well for 40 years. I am going to take the crankshaft to a machine shop to see what they have to say about it. I can buy a complete overhaul kit including the valve train parts for $784.00; without the valve train is around $600.00. If I can use my crankshaft, I agree that it would be cost effective to rebuild my current engine. So we shall see. I will keep you posted. Again, I thank you much for your advice. PS: I wish we had the same inventory of Dexta Parts in the USA as you all have in the UK. -Melvin