Slippery clutch

[rrlund]

I just never run out of new things to learn. The clutch slipped a few times in my 2-135 last fall when I was chopping. Not actually in the field, but when I pulled out in the road pulling the chopper and loaded wagon and tried to get going in road gear. I started spring work with it and it would break loose a time or two when it was pulling, usually in the mornings. Monday, it started acting up pretty bad. I figured it had oil on it, but after I'd let it burn off and it started pulling alright again, as soon as I'd shift the O/U up, it would let loose again.

About 2 o'clock, it dawned on me, there should be a drain hole in the bottom of the bell housing with a cotter pin in it to keep it clean. I stopped, looked up under it and sure enough, there was. I touched it and hot oil dripped out. I took a pair of pliers out of the toolbox and wiggled it. Oil started running out in a stream. I checked it again after a few rounds to be sure it hadn't plugged again. After an hour or so, it had slung all the oil off the flywheel and burned it off the clutch and it acting perfectly normal. That hole must have been plugged for a long time until the oil got high enough for the ring gear to start slinging it.

 

[MikeO-WI]

When I first saw your post, I expected you had to pull the motor to get to the clutch. Amazing how something simple like that can be the culprit. Maybe we need to run a thread on some of the simple things that seem bigger than they are once figured out. When we put our tractors away for the winter I make sure the batter disconnects are in the off position and all fuel valves are turned off. Well when getting one of my 1855's out this spring I reached under the tank and turned the valve back on... right. Someone had installed a quarter turn valve under the tank and i hadn't actually shut it last fall. Well it ran for quite a while, even let me take out to get hooked up to the well. Then it died. Figured i had to replace the fuel filters which were on it for 3 years now. It has a cummins engine so I had to go get the filters. Well before installing it dawned on me to check the valve one more time. Sure enough, it was in the off position. Easy fix.

 

[scootergmc]

I guess the question at this point is- where's the oil coming from?

 

[rrlund]

I guess the question at this point is- where's the oil coming from?

Rear main I assume. I put a new one in last clutch job. That's why I have to think that hole had been plugged for a long time for it to accumulate enough oil to get slung. I changed the oil this morning and put some Lucas additive in it. I was loosing some out of the front seal too and that's about stopped leaking already.

 

[pcrh]

Rear main I assume. I put a new one in last clutch job. That's why I have to think that hole had been plugged for a long time for it to accumulate enough oil to get slung. I changed the oil this morning and put some Lucas additive in it. I was loosing some out of the front seal too and that's about stopped leaking already.

Would this be a product like bars leak?

 

[rrlund]

Would this be a product like bars leak?

Ya, but for oil. When I bought that tractor, the rear main was leaking in a stream the first day I worked it. I put a bottle in it and by the end of the day, it was down to a slow drip. Next day, the leak was gone. Like I said, I replaced the seal when I put a new clutch in it before, so I assume the leak was pretty slow this time, but that front seal was leaking bad this time and it's pretty much dried right up.

 

[GermantownGreen]

Hey crowd!
Got to ask more questions..... Clutch wet from the rear...2-105
We had trouble with the seal on the power shaft leaking oil forward...
Bailey needs to chime in and finish the story
Welters farm supply, Verona Mo, fixed us up!
GG

 

[Antique Acres]

On our 2-105 the seal that seals against the long shaft that sticks through the back from the pto was leaking. The rear end oil was following up the shaft to the clutch causing it to slip. Welters at Verona had to take the hyd pump off, hyd cooler pump off, the long shaft out, and left rear wheel off to get to the seal. You have to stick your right arm through the cavity where the hyd pump and cooler pump would be, or else take the transmission cover off. This was on a 2-105. I am not sure wether or not the large frame whites are the same or not.

Bailey @ antique Acres

 

[rrlund]

On our 2-105 the seal that seals against the long shaft that sticks through the back from the pto was leaking. The rear end oil was following up the shaft to the clutch causing it to slip. Welters at Verona had to take the hyd pump off, hyd cooler pump off, the long shaft out, and left rear wheel off to get to the seal. You have to stick your right arm through the cavity where the hyd pump and cooler pump would be, or else take the transmission cover off. This was on a 2-105. I am not sure wether or not the large frame whites are the same or not.

Bailey @ antique Acres

This was thin, hot, black used motor oil that was leaking out when I pushed on that cotter pin. About as thin as diesel fuel at that point in the day.

 

[Antique Acres]

This was thin, hot, black used motor oil that was leaking out when I pushed on that cotter pin. About as thin as diesel fuel at that point in the day.

rrlund,
Ok, just thought I would throw out another possibility of what might be leaking. Hope you can get it to stop leaking.

My worry with a bars leak type fluid is that your smaller oil galleys would clog up possibly after you shut the tractor down maybe?

If you do replace the seal, put a speedy sleeve on the crankshaft if the crank has a groove wore in it.

Bailey @ Antique Acres