The box blade tips and tricks. (Help).

[Evh515093]

I am new to the box blade world. I have been scraping some area on our property. I'm trying to fill some divots, but I see the blade is going into the larger divots as it goes over them and just scrapes it. What are some tips and tricks you guys can give me? Any additional info would be cool too! I'm using an LS mt122 with LS box blade.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Fist off 32pt is hard to keep from having it follow the contour of the surface so it will tend to drop into the divots as it follows along behind. If you had a way to hold it with a couple of wheels behind the blade a few feet it would fix you right up or if you can get your 3pt to hold at a level after you get the dirt loose so it will pull along then dump as it goes over the divots. With the wheels you could adjust them hydraulically so it would cut then drop as it traveled over the divots. IT could be something as simple as an axle bolted to the blade in back with a pivot and cylinder to adjust it. If you look around you will see what I'm getting at for this.

 

[Cash4Toys]

Patience. A box blade has two (2) cutting edges, one facing forward and facing rear ward. A cutting edge will cut more aggressive when they are in a more vertical position. With a box blade if you tilt the box rear ward it should ride on the rear cutting edge and thus it's not so aggressive cutting in forward travel. If you run it tilted rearward, you can get material build up between the cutting edges and then it will hardly cut at all, which is good for the final running over the area. Trial and error on your upper link length until you find that sweet spot . As for the divitts you'll just have to bump the 3 point up to allow material to fill said divitt. Fill material will need to be compacted by driving on it and if it too dry you may have wait for a rain to settle the ground. You should work the area from multiple directions as well. Areas of cut will not work the same as areas of fill.

 

[DeltaRed]

Patience. A box blade has two (2) cutting edges, one facing forward and facing rear ward. A cutting edge will cut more aggressive when they are in a more vertical position. With a box blade if you tilt the box rear ward it should ride on the rear cutting edge and thus it's not so aggressive cutting in forward travel. If you run it tilted rearward, you can get material build up between the cutting edges and then it will hardly cut at all, which is good for the final running over the area. Trial and error on your upper link length until you find that sweet spot . As for the divitts you'll just have to bump the 3 point up to allow material to fill said divitt. Fill material will need to be compacted by driving on it and if it too dry you may have wait for a rain to settle the ground. You should work the area from multiple directions as well. Areas of cut will not work the same as areas of fill.

Cash has it. You have to be active and play with the 3point control. Cant just set it down and drive. Adding crazy wheel type of gage wheel behind helps alot.That is something you are going to add(make) yourself.I used an old JohnDeere #5 mower to make mine.

 

[VicS]

Cash has it. You have to be active and play with the 3point control. Cant just set it down and drive. Adding crazy wheel type of gage wheel behind helps alot.That is something you are going to add(make) yourself.I used an old JohnDeere #5 mower to make mine.

We have a hyd top link. Can move it on the go. With the top link short the teeth will cut hard ground. In the middle the box will fill. With as long as will go the box will empty very smoothly.

 

[Evh515093]

Patience. A box blade has two (2) cutting edges, one facing forward and facing rear ward. A cutting edge will cut more aggressive when they are in a more vertical position. With a box blade if you tilt the box rear ward it should ride on the rear cutting edge and thus it's not so aggressive cutting in forward travel. If you run it tilted rearward, you can get material build up between the cutting edges and then it will hardly cut at all, which is good for the final running over the area. Trial and error on your upper link length until you find that sweet spot . As for the divitts you'll just have to bump the 3 point up to allow material to fill said divitt. Fill material will need to be compacted by driving on it and if it too dry you may have wait for a rain to settle the ground. You should work the area from multiple directions as well. Areas of cut will not work the same as areas of fill.

Thanks for this tips! The turn buckle toplink can be a pain to keep getting off and adjusting. I did read the manual, it does have a 3 point lock feature. So it will lock it from going down. But it will still lift. And to lower again I have to unlock it. Maybe this could be useful... Do you know if I would be able to add a hydraulic toplink to my LS mt122?

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Thanks for this tips! The turn buckle toplink can be a pain to keep getting off and adjusting. I did read the manual, it does have a 3 point lock feature. So it will lock it from going down. But it will still lift. And to lower again I have to unlock it. Maybe this could be useful... Do you know if I would be able to add a hydraulic toplink to my LS mt122?

Do you have an available hydraulic remote on the rear to control a hydraulic toplink? That would be the only thing stopping you.

Get one the right length and the right category.

 

[Cash4Toys]

You don't have to adjust the top link all the time. Lengthen it out so the blade won't cut that aggressive or at all, then fine tune to how aggressive you want it by shortening it. 3 point lock is for more of a safety feature, not intended for this type of use. You have to get into the mindset that you are going to make height adjustments with that 3 point control continuously. Use the palm of your hand and tap/bump it a little at a time, either up or down. You have to be able to see what you need to do before it happens. With the right mindset it's just practice, practice and practice.

 

[Evh515093]

Do you have an available hydraulic remote on the rear to control a hydraulic toplink? That would be the only thing stopping you.

Get one the right length and the right category.

No. I don't have any other controls or available hookup...