Voltage regulator question

I need to replace the voltage regulator on my Ford 881 tractor (6 volt, positive ground). From what I've read on this website, the 6v generator max output is 20 amps. I am considering buying a VR with specs of 26-32 amp, dual polarity, B-circuit. Will this regulator work on my tractor, or does the VR amperage need to match the generator output? The VR is a Regitar RVR2197.
The VR I am looking at is advertised as a 6 volt regulator, but when you look at the detailed specs, it says it is 12 volt. Can you use a 12 volt regulator with a 6 volt generator and 6 volt battery?
 
Ideally the VR amperage needs to match the rating of the generator, otherwise you could overheat the genny. And no, you cannot use a 12-volt VR with a 6-volt genny & battery.
 
The original part number for the voltage regulator on your tractor is FAG10505A. I did a Google search on that part number that you reference, RVR2197, and it looks like it is is $125 and it does not reference the original Ford part number in the list of cross references. You can find a replacement for the original part number on Amazon for $36.00:

Link to FAG10505A on amazon
 
I need to replace the voltage regulator on my Ford 881 tractor (6 volt, positive ground). From what I've read on this website, the 6v generator max output is 20 amps. I am considering buying a VR with specs of 26-32 amp, dual polarity, B-circuit. Will this regulator work on my tractor, or does the VR amperage need to match the generator output? The VR is a Regitar RVR2197.
The VR I am looking at is advertised as a 6 volt regulator, but when you look at the detailed specs, it says it is 12 volt. Can you use a 12 volt regulator with a 6 volt generator and 6 volt battery?
I need to replace the voltage regulator on my Ford 881 tractor (6 volt, positive ground). From what I've read on this website, the 6v generator max output is 20 amps. I am considering buying a VR with specs of 26-32 amp, dual polarity, B-circuit. Will this regulator work on my tractor, or does the VR amperage need to match the generator output? The VR is a Regitar RVR2197.
The VR I am looking at is advertised as a 6 volt regulator, but when you look at the detailed specs, it says it is 12 volt. Can you use a 12 volt regulator with a 6 volt generator and 6 volt battery?
HiYa Blair-
Why do you think you need a new VR? Does the old/current one work now? Did you have it tested? Why do you think you need a bigger rating unit? Take the GEN & VR to a trusty ALT/GEN shop and have them tested and stop guessing. If you've been following this forum you should know the drill. Also, if you do need parts, why muck around with rip-off places when you can get the part you need right here -SEE LINK BELOW. Sean gave you the part number - FAG10505-A, used '53-'64. You should be using your MPC and other manuals. ALL FORD TRACTORS used the 6V; 20 AMP output; "B" Circuit Design; 3-WIRE/2-BRUSH GENERATOR from the NAA up thru the Hundred Series Models. Don't assume just because you have a 6V Battery the system is wired correctly for the 6V/POS GRN setup. If you are having issues starting/running now, chances are it is in the wiring somewhere and not the VR other part. Get the correct manuals and documents and go thru completely. The '01 Series were slightly different than the prior '00 Series. The '01 eliminated the AMMETER for one. In its place was a dash mounted 'IGN CHARGE' Idiot Lamp. The GEN & VR were the same as noted. Heed this advice and don't be buying and replacing any parts until proved they are needed.

FORD VOLTAGE REGULATOR, P/N FAG10505-A, USED '53 THRU '64:

$28

Tim Daley (MI)
 

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HiYa Blair-
Why do you think you need a new VR? Does the old/current one work now? Did you have it tested? Why do you think you need a bigger rating unit? Take the GEN & VR to a trusty ALT/GEN shop and have them tested and stop guessing. If you've been following this forum you should know the drill. Also, if you do need parts, why muck around with rip-off places when you can get the part you need right here -SEE LINK BELOW. Sean gave you the part number - FAG10505-A, used '53-'64. You should be using your MPC and other manuals. ALL FORD TRACTORS used the 6V; 20 AMP output; "B" Circuit Design; 3-WIRE/2-BRUSH GENERATOR from the NAA up thru the Hundred Series Models. Don't assume just because you have a 6V Battery the system is wired correctly for the 6V/POS GRN setup. If you are having issues starting/running now, chances are it is in the wiring somewhere and not the VR other part. Get the correct manuals and documents and go thru completely. The '01 Series were slightly different than the prior '00 Series. The '01 eliminated the AMMETER for one. In its place was a dash mounted 'IGN CHARGE' Idiot Lamp. The GEN & VR were the same as noted. Heed this advice and don't be buying and replacing any parts until proved they are needed.

FORD VOLTAGE REGULATOR, P/N FAG10505-A, USED '53 THRU '64:

$28

Tim Daley (MI)
Thanks Tim, Bern, and Sean for your responses. You are right Sean, that VR I referenced is about $125. Not cheap, which is why I was concerned about the confusing (to me) description of this generator as being 6volt on the main ad, but says 12volt when you dig into the detailed specs.
If it is the correct electrical specs, but maybe slightly different in dimensions from the original VR, maybe I could find a way to get it to fit. I'll try to keep it short, but here reasons for this, and may answer to your questions Tim:
The generator stopped charging and was making noise at the end of last year. Seeing the scarcity and cost of new 6v generators, I decided to have this generator repaired (again). It was repaired/renovated only 2 years ago by a local generator guy with a good reputation. Rather than go back, I contacted a guy in Wyoming who advertises generator repair on ebay and has a lifetime garantee for his work. Nice guy, out in Wyoming, and has been doing such work for 40+ years with vintage generators. So I sent it to him. When the generator got there, it arrived damaged with the bracket broken off at the back of the housing. He replaced it, and also said the bushing had gone out of it so it ruined the armature and rubbed on the fields. So the armature was replaced. He replaced the back housing with updated one that has a ball bearing rather than a bushing. Here is a pic of it showing the old ones on the right and the updated ones on the left.
generator pic.jpg

When I installed it back on the tractor, I found it was not charging at the battery, but I seemed to be getting about 2-3 volts at the generator (tested using voltmeter neg lead at armature terminal, and postive lead at ground). I figured the generator itself was probably ok. I contacted the guy in Wyoming and he said it is very likely the VR, but to also do another check at the generator field. So instead of neg meter lead at armature, I checked it at the field terminal. There I was getting pretty much nothing. The needle barely moved on my analog voltmeter (well under 1 volt). He told me it was almost certain that the VR was not working. He recommended a Regitar regulator. They are made in the USA and will last at least 20-30 years. He said something about them having tungsten points and not tarnishing. They are pricey, but if you want something that will last, unlike these cheap foreign-borne VR's, then that is what it is. I've gone through several VR's over the years and don't want anymore of that junk. That said, I need to go through the wiring (again) to make sure there isn't something bad going on with that, though I have not seen any issues such as broken wires or lose connections. Some of the wiring is not visible, being wrapped in tape or whatever insulator material. Thinking I should check wiring continuity from each wire end to end staring at the VR.

I am not very good with electrical stuff, so I rely a lot on what you guys suggest; and the guy from Wyoming also seems very knowledgeable and helpful. All that said, I'm still confused about that Regitar VR ad I referred to, and will probably try contacting the company to get more info. Sorry for the long story, but that's what's going on. Hope you reply if you have any other comments or suggestions.
Thanks!
 
Thanks Tim, Bern, and Sean for your responses. You are right Sean, that VR I referenced is about $125. Not cheap, which is why I was concerned about the confusing (to me) description of this generator as being 6volt on the main ad, but says 12volt when you dig into the detailed specs.
If it is the correct electrical specs, but maybe slightly different in dimensions from the original VR, maybe I could find a way to get it to fit. I'll try to keep it short, but here reasons for this, and may answer to your questions Tim:
The generator stopped charging and was making noise at the end of last year. Seeing the scarcity and cost of new 6v generators, I decided to have this generator repaired (again). It was repaired/renovated only 2 years ago by a local generator guy with a good reputation. Rather than go back, I contacted a guy in Wyoming who advertises generator repair on ebay and has a lifetime garantee for his work. Nice guy, out in Wyoming, and has been doing such work for 40+ years with vintage generators. So I sent it to him. When the generator got there, it arrived damaged with the bracket broken off at the back of the housing. He replaced it, and also said the bushing had gone out of it so it ruined the armature and rubbed on the fields. So the armature was replaced. He replaced the back housing with updated one that has a ball bearing rather than a bushing. Here is a pic of it showing the old ones on the right and the updated ones on the left.
View attachment 61760
When I installed it back on the tractor, I found it was not charging at the battery, but I seemed to be getting about 2-3 volts at the generator (tested using voltmeter neg lead at armature terminal, and postive lead at ground). I figured the generator itself was probably ok. I contacted the guy in Wyoming and he said it is very likely the VR, but to also do another check at the generator field. So instead of neg meter lead at armature, I checked it at the field terminal. There I was getting pretty much nothing. The needle barely moved on my analog voltmeter (well under 1 volt). He told me it was almost certain that the VR was not working. He recommended a Regitar regulator. They are made in the USA and will last at least 20-30 years. He said something about them having tungsten points and not tarnishing. They are pricey, but if you want something that will last, unlike these cheap foreign-borne VR's, then that is what it is. I've gone through several VR's over the years and don't want anymore of that junk. That said, I need to go through the wiring (again) to make sure there isn't something bad going on with that, though I have not seen any issues such as broken wires or lose connections. Some of the wiring is not visible, being wrapped in tape or whatever insulator material. Thinking I should check wiring continuity from each wire end to end staring at the VR.

I am not very good with electrical stuff, so I rely a lot on what you guys suggest; and the guy from Wyoming also seems very knowledgeable and helpful. All that said, I'm still confused about that Regitar VR ad I referred to, and will probably try contacting the company to get more info. Sorry for the long story, but that's what's going on. Hope you reply if you have any other comments or suggestions.
Thanks!
1st thing to do is always get the battery tested at a shop under load on their machine. A weak or dead battery will not hold a charge (pun) no matter how many times you connect your trickle charger. Testing usually doesn't cost a dime, takes a minute. Also can motor test the GEN per F0-4 manual yourself. Rebuilding OEM components always your 1st choice for parts. My buddy has his own ALT/GEN shop and know these old FORDS. I help him with stuff often at no charge (pun again) so if you want a quality rebuild ask. Again I advise not to buy anything you don't need not OEM.

If battery isn't kept on a FLOAT CHARGER when tractor is idle it loses electrolyte within a week and sulfurization begins. Worse thing to kill battery life. DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER, $30.
 
Seeing the scarcity and cost of new 6v generators
While I'll agree with you about the high price, when I do a Google search on the current part number for the 6 volt generator for your tractor, C4NN10002A, There are literally dozens of places selling them, both new and rebuilt, so I have to disagree when you say "scarcity".
 
If battery isn't kept on a FLOAT CHARGER when tractor is idle it loses electrolyte within a week and sulfurization begins. Worse thing to kill battery life. DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER, $30.
If the battery is loosing electrolyte while just sitting, I would be looking for a crack somewhere. LOL.
 
While I'll agree with you about the high price, when I do a Google search on the current part number for the 6 volt generator for your tractor, C4NN10002A, There are literally dozens of places selling them, both new and rebuilt, so I have to disagree when you say "scarcity".
I didn't actually search using that part number. I was using a more general search for a Ford 801 tractor 6v generator, which I guess wasn't specific enough as most of the results I saw were for 8N's, 12volt, or discontinued (out of stock). The few I did find were over $300. Your approach using the part number shows more options.
 
Disconnect wire from gen Field terminal and connect that Field terminal to the not grounded battery terminal. See if charging and also measure gen output voltage. Results are……?
 
Disconnect wire from gen Field terminal and connect that Field terminal to the not grounded battery terminal. See if charging and also measure gen output voltage. Results are……?
I'm not clear on this JMOR. I understand you say to disconnect the wire at the generator's field terminal. But you lost me when you say "connect that Field terminal to the not grounded battery terminal". Connect a jumper wire between the generator Field terminal to.......... what is the not grounded battery terminal?
 
I'm not clear on this JMOR. I understand you say to disconnect the wire at the generator's field terminal. But you lost me when you say "connect that Field terminal to the not grounded battery terminal". Connect a jumper wire between the generator Field terminal to.......... what is the not grounded battery terminal?
you mean the negative post on the battery?
 

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