Y u no bleed Mr injector nozzle 3?

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Farmall 504 diesel for the millionth time (I hate this POS)

So I have been having issues with the injector pump it’s a rooster/dynoturd and for some reason, I just can’t get nozzle #3 (#1 starting from the front). I have bled as per the manuals instructions and have gotten the air out of the pump to where it will start letting diesel out with no more air bubbles. However for some reason once the injector line is attached, it is unable to push diesel through the line.

None of the others have this issue, and I have already blown the line out with air and then with diesel successfully while detached from the pump. But then after I reattach it, nothing will come out while attempting bleed it.

I am certain the line is clear, and the only thing I can think of is that either:

A) in my constantly removal/reattaching of the lines, I have worn down those little copper washers that rest directly against the pump in the indentation where the lines attach and then again on the little screw with the inlet holes that bolts into the pump to where the holes on the screw are no longer level with that on the inlet line and so it simply can’t push any fuel through it

The reason I am asking if A) is possible is because I also seem to be having problems getting a completely airtight connection as I am now also having little bits of diesel leaks from the pump body around the copper washers no matter how much I tighten them. I am aware that fact itself creates difficulties in the pump working right, but prior to this I was still unable to get anything through #3, and #1-2 & 4 are still able to push diesel through so it’s still odd why #3 is bone dry

B) as mentioned to me in a previous post, something to do with the return line/check valve might be what’s causing the pump’s pressure to be thrown off and not work right, but I still don’t understand why ONLY #3 is affected

Should I try to carefully sand down the washers slightly so they’re completely flat/buy new ones? Or should I try removing the return line and then trying to bleed it again? I’ve seen an older post that had somewhat similar issues in that only by removing the return line and check valve and then replacing it with their own jerryrigged replacement were they able to get certain lines to bleed correctly.

 

[Dieseltech]

Take the injection line off AT THE INJECTOR. Now crank engine with the starter and see if compression air blows OUT the injector inlet, if so that injector is bad/stuck OPEN. E-mail me your address and I'll mail you some new washers. I doubt you have pump trouble, but a bad injector that's allowing compression back through the line to the pump, I've seen this happen several times before. That design pump WILL NOT put air out just one outlet, it's all or nothing.

 

[560Dennis]

suggest change out copper seals
install
“yes don't put a death grip on them it could damage the head of the pump” advice from the tech at messicks .
these seals are for a 560 .$2.92 each , look up your parts number s might be the same don’t know.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I would look at the holes in the screw holding the line to the pump if plugged it will not flow fuel either.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

All that Stanadyne hate for nothing!

 

[rustred]

there is no reason to be constantly removing the lines. the lines get bleed at the injector, and if you want to see the diesel squirt out you can remove them there and they will squirt about 3 ft. and yes a plugged return valve will cause the the engine to not run. it will just start and stop.

 

[Dieseltech]

suggest change out copper seals
install
“yes don't put a death grip on them it could damage the head of the pump” advice from the tech at messicks .
these seals are for a 560 .$2.92 each , look up your parts number s might be the same don’t know.

The only head port damage that could happen is the thread seal ring area can chip away sometimes right where the seal ring sets. Then the only way to save the head is use the larger diameter 11354 copper washer. The Stanadyne/Roosa black 16225 steel washer is extremely hard and does not seal well at times. My FAVORITE line washer is the Delphi/CAV/DPA washer, it's MILD steel that will crush a bit like copper does, but MUCH less cost than copper now. If the lines have a step then the white nylon 18829 washer must be used. On ANY Stanadyne/Roosa pump make SURE there's TWO washers on each line. If ONE is dropped, the line bolt WILL bottom out in the head port, SEIZE the rotor, and BREAK the drive shaft.

 

[560Dennis]

The only head port damage that could happen is the thread seal ring area can chip away sometimes right where the seal ring sets. Then the only way to save the head is use the larger diameter 11354 copper washer. The Stanadyne/Roosa black 16225 steel washer is extremely hard and does not seal well at times. My FAVORITE line washer is the Delphi/CAV/DPA washer, it's MILD steel that will crush a bit like copper does, but MUCH less cost than copper now. If the lines have a step then the white nylon 18829 washer must be used. On ANY Stanadyne/Roosa pump make SURE there's TWO washers on each line. If ONE is dropped, the line bolt WILL bottom out in the head port, SEIZE the rotor, and BREAK the drive shaft.

good suggestion thanks
I have the steel washer on mine now. Came with pump rebuild , always leaked, going back to copper that was on before the rebuild , no issues with copper that remember ,been awhile .
The copper work hardens after its thighen up ,so i don’t reuse .
I measured them ( 3/8 i.d. X 9/16 o.d. X 1/16 thick) seal size ,I’m going check out the ones stocked at my hardware store to see if they are a match , in case I drop one into with the tussle on back side install. I remember was very confinement to block like you said , can’t do it with having the two Installed correctly. Last time I dropped two or more times , it missed the catch bucket also ,so l lay down drip pan . Ugh!