Ford 3000 Diesel No fluid to Injectors

[redrooster888]

I bought this1973 ford 3000 tractor that has been sitting for several years. I cleaned the tank and changed the single filter. It has a CAV pump. I have bleed all the lines and removed all air. Turn the engine over and squirts fluid at bleeder very good but I get no fluid to injectors. I checked the cut off and it turns when I pull the cutoff cable and the throttle is working. I have it wide open when turning the motor over, but no fuel comes out any of the 3 lines at the injectors. The engine is turning pretty fast. Any suggestions, Please.

 

[moresmoke]

Diesel tech will probably be along soon, but sound to me like the metering valve or plungers in the pump are stuck. The fix involves tearing the pump down and cleaning it out. Not uncommon for units that have sat for a number of years.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I bought this1973 ford 3000 tractor that has been sitting for several years. I cleaned the tank and changed the single filter. It has a CAV pump. I have bleed all the lines and removed all air. Turn the engine over and squirts fluid at bleeder very good but I get no fluid to injectors. I checked the cut off and it turns when I pull the cutoff cable and the throttle is working. I have it wide open when turning the motor over, but no fuel comes out any of the 3 lines at the injectors. The engine is turning pretty fast. Any suggestions, Please.

Very likely your metering valve.
Click the link below for an old post I made on freeing it up.

Lucas CAV pump help

Have a Lukas CAV injection pump type 565 on a Perkins diesel Powering a Hobart welder. It sat for a probably six months or longer. I’ve changed the fuel filter bleed the fuel lines Had fuel going into the pump no fuel coming out of the pump. Is there some sort of a rack that’s probably stuck...

forums.yesterdaystractors.com

 

[used red MN]

I bought this1973 ford 3000 tractor that has been sitting for several years. I cleaned the tank and changed the single filter. It has a CAV pump. I have bleed all the lines and removed all air. Turn the engine over and squirts fluid at bleeder very good but I get no fluid to injectors. I checked the cut off and it turns when I pull the cutoff cable and the throttle is working. I have it wide open when turning the motor over, but no fuel comes out any of the 3 lines at the injectors. The engine is turning pretty fast. Any suggestions, Please

Hello redeooster, welcome to YT! As ‘smoke says there area probably items stuck in your IJP that are stopping it from pumping. Very common problem on diesel engines that set for a time. The ULSD and soy diesel blends are are very likely addition causal factors to this problem. The member Dieseltech that ‘smoke mentioned runs an IJP repair shop in Indiana. Many members ship their pumps to him for repair. Always hear them say how good of a job he did and that the charges were very reasonable.

 

[redrooster888]

Thank you all for the information. Ultradog I followed your advice and checked the slide bar moves very easy I made sure it was working the lever. Is it possible the veins in the pump are stuck ?

 

[used red MN]

Yes, something can certainly be stuck and in fact likely is! I have worked on Roosamaster pumps and in those they are called plungers. Not familiar with the CAV terminology. Your conundrum is you don’t want to invest a bunch of money into something you really have no idea of what the machines actual condition is, that is understandable. I would suggest you contact Dieseltech through a PM, go to the “letter or mail” icon at the top and choose “Start a conversation” In recipients type Dieseltech, once you get to the “t” it will pop up to select. Then proceed as needed. You can link this post there using the 2 chain link icon. If he rebuilds your pump and the tractor turns out to not be a useable machine you could likely get your money back out of the pump work by selling it.

 

[Dieseltech]

The rotor plungers are stuck, OR WORSE, hydraulic head/rotor is seized. I get pumps in often that have stuck internal parts from setting, a complete tear down and cleaning usually gets them working fine on the test stand again.

 

[used red MN]

Now if so desired you can start your PM with Dieseltech right from his username in his profile banner above his reply.

 

[redrooster888]

Update on my Ford 3000, I have replaced the pump and have fuel to the injectors but it still won`t crank. Wondering if you think the injectors could be stopped up. I tried using a little ether but no luck.

 

[moresmoke]

Any smoke at all? If no smoke, and no response from the ether, I would be checking the valves to be sure they are closing, or some other cause of low compression.

 

[redrooster888]

Any smoke at all? If no smoke, and no response from the ether, I would be checking the valves to be sure they are closing, or some other cause of low compression.

I pulled the valve cover off yesterday, all the valve were working. I took the breather hose off the manifold and it is sucking real good. This tractor has a mister for cold cranking. I turned it on and it seemed to work but tractor never attempted to crank.

 

[used red MN]

I pulled the valve cover off yesterday, all the valve were working. I took the breather hose off the manifold and it is sucking real good. This tractor has a mister for cold cranking. I turned it on and it seemed to work but tractor never attempted to crank.

None of that answers Msmokes question. Does it smoke out of the exhaust when cranking? Have a heat gun or old hair drier? Turn it on high and direct it in the intake manifold. Pull an injector take the line clamps off and reconnect it to the injection line outside of the head and see how it is squirting. May end up checking the compression to arrive at no Bueno!

 

[redrooster888]

There is no smoke, the engine was seized when I bought it. I pulled the injectors and soaked it with pb blaster. It broke loose fairly easy rocking the rear tire. I guess next on the list is to pull the injectors and check each cylinders compression. What range should they be? Also when I reinstalled the injectors I used new washer kit.

 

[redrooster888]

There is no smoke, the engine was seized when I bought it. I pulled the injectors and soaked it with pb blaster. It broke loose fairly easy rocking the rear tire. I guess next on the list is to pull the injectors and check each cylinders compression. What range should they be? Also when I reinstalled the injectors I used new washer kit.

I also pulled the oil pan when it was seized to make sure nothing was broken. I talked to the last one to use the tractor and was running perfect when parked.

 

[used red MN]

No smoke very likely means no fuel. Unless all cylinders are nearly zero compression if fuel goes in even 150 psi compression will make it smoke. Compression should be 3 to 400 psi.

 

[redrooster888]

With no smoke is why I thought injectors might be clogged. It turns over with starter and sounds like there is good compression. Doesn't turn over extremely fast. Think I will take the battery I t of my other 3000 and see if it will turn it faster.

 

[redrooster888]

Tried the other battery but it didn`t help. It turns over about the same as my old tractor. I have ordered injectors. Will change them out later in the week and check compression and update my results.

 

[redrooster888]

Update, I pulled the injectors today and checked compression. Starter may be dragging some but I only got 160 on 2 cylinders and only 90 on the #1 cylinder. Next question , What are the opinions of pulling the head and oil pan and doing a basic in-frame overhaul ?

 

[used red MN]

Update, I pulled the injectors today and checked compression. Starter may be dragging some but I only got 160 on 2 cylinders and only 90 on the #1 cylinder. Next question , What are the opinions of pulling the head and oil pan and doing a basic in-frame overhaul ?

For one, you said you had the valve cover off did check to make sure there is at least some lash clearance on all the valves when they are closed?
Also just FYI those engines were not built with replaceable sleeves. So if the cylinders are worn quite a bit that means the block needs pulled out and taken to a machine shop to get bored to the proper oversize.
CNHI Ford 3000 parts catalog
Just attached that so you could look at the engine diagrams.

 

[redrooster888]

Thanks for the info. I didn't check the valve lash. The motor was seized when I bought it. Previous owner had pulled it on highway trying to break the engine loose but was unsuccessful. I bought it and pulled the lifters and soaked the cylinders with Pb blaster. It turned loose pretty easily rocking the rear tires. I am wondering if the ring are stuck or possibly broken causing the low compression.