Wondering if my tractors can handle what I want to do…

[Griffthefarmer]

Hello all, my first post on here, I’m new to the farming scene and have some questions on my tractors and what they can do. I have a massy Harris 22 and an old international B414. I am hoping to get some cows this year and also grow some field crops to feed my chickens. Some of the implements I have on the farm are a case 2 furrow drag plow, a ford 501 sickle mower and a pull type 8ft tandem disc plow with hydraulic lift of unknown brand. (Been going a little auction crazy) I’m wondering what your opinions are on if these are decent tractors to work these type of implements with. Also wanting to do small square bales and if you have any baler model suggestions for these tractors. The soil on the farm is not very deep about 2 feet at the most till limestone bed rock. I’m not sure if anyone has any experience with that type of land.

Thanks a lot for the help everybody

 

[Frank(Mi.)]

Sounds like the International could handle most of them if it is in good shape. The disc is maybe too big for it tho' could maybe trade for a six foot disc?

 

[12251HD]

You have a good start. Both tractors about 40 HP can handle your implements reasonably well. Talk to people who have run the implements and find out the special things needed to keep them going. Grease and oil works wonders on old equipment. I ran a 501 mower for years and still believe they were among the best--have a couple pitman rods available, you'll need them. I found good guards with sharp ledger plates are the key to keeping the mower humming. Good small balers are hard to find now--get to know how the needles and tying mechanism works before you jump. Build your farm slowly. Fertilize and lime works wonders on fields. Avoid going in debt. You'll look back and will be amazed of what you accomplished. Good luck.

 

[Texasmark]

You have a good start. Both tractors about 40 HP can handle your implements reasonably well. Talk to people who have run the implements and find out the special things needed to keep them going. Grease and oil works wonders on old equipment. I ran a 501 mower for years and still believe they were among the best--have a couple pitman rods available, you'll need them. I found good guards with sharp ledger plates are the key to keeping the mower humming. Good small balers are hard to find now--get to know how the needles and tying mechanism works before you jump. Build your farm slowly. Fertilize and lime works wonders on fields. Avoid going in debt. You'll look back and will be amazed of what you accomplished. Good luck.

Lime for acid soils.....balances the Ph. Alkaline soils like my Houston Black Clay don't need nor want it. Fertilizer is getting terribly expensive but is your friend. Taking soil samples and sending them, along with your usage plans to analyzing agencies, like TAMU with 10 bucks will help you to spend your money wisely.......other states have Ag. colleges with soil testing facilities too....check with your local/state Ag. schools.

Along with friendly things, 2-4-D Amine is a broadleaf herbicide that attacks round cell plants (they outgrow their nourishment and starve to death)....... and is worth its weight in gold! In Texas you don't need an "applicator's license" to buy it in the quarts. 1-2% to tap water is what works for me. Grasses have parallel cell structures, and if you apply per directions on the container, it will not hurt your grasses.......they will love you for doing it. Its utterly amazing that you can take one field that is overgrown with these weeds, apply the product and the following year your grasses take over and you never see the pests again....not for a long time....Just night vs day experience......my experiences.

 

[Leroy]

Hello all, my first post on here, I’m new to the farming scene and have some questions on my tractors and what they can do. I have a massy Harris 22 and an old international B414. I am hoping to get some cows this year and also grow some field crops to feed my chickens. Some of the implements I have on the farm are a case 2 furrow drag plow, a ford 501 sickle mower and a pull type 8ft tandem disc plow with hydraulic lift of unknown brand. (Been going a little auction crazy) I’m wondering what your opinions are on if these are decent tractors to work these type of implements with. Also wanting to do small square bales and if you have any baler model suggestions for these tractors. The soil on the farm is not very deep about 2 feet at the most till limestone bed rock. I’m not sure if anyone has any experience with that type of land.

Thanks a lot for the help everybody

uour larger tractor, the B414 is only max 35 Hp and the 22 is only in the low 20.sThia is aording to tractor data Lok things up for yourself and you will see how far off you were told. Easy working soi omly a 2-14 inch plow at max, the 22 a single 12 inch bottom. plow. You do dot have enough tractor to do anything with as the larger the B414 does not have enough weight to even handle the 2 bottom plow. with the small rear tirres. This is even tho it would have enough power for the 2-14 inch plow. and a drag plow would take moye tractor to pull than a mounted plow. The Ford bar mower is in the power size but a wrong hitch for either tractor. Being 80+ years old I retired from farming over 15 years ago.l

 

[Mac AR]

First of all, welcome to YT! In regards to your questions, here are a couple things to keep in mind.

Firstly, that eight foot disk is gonna be a load on either of those tractors; probably wouldn't even try it on the Massey. I would either try and swap it for a smaller disk or find a larger tractor such as a Farmall M, John Deere A, Massey Harris 44 etc. You ought to be able to pull your plow with either of your tractors, despite what others have said. An 8n Ford will pull a two bottom plow, and both your machines will out-weigh and out-work it. The old 501 mower is a good one, especially if you will heed the advice above and keep everything sharp and well lubricated. I would suggest that you find a couple other implements as well. You should look into a lightweight drag harrow, to finish your ground after you disk. A planter of some kind is a necessity unless you want to plant an acre of chicken feed by hand (not fun, don't do it!). Just a simple one or two row, 3 point hitch unit is easy found and inexpensive. Some kind of cultivator will be necessary to keep the weeds out of your feed crops; 3 point, 2 row cultivators are also easy to find and fairly cheap. You'll also need a rake for your hay; I like the old side delivery rakes but others will want to recommend a v-rake. A v-rake will rake far too big a swath for a small square baler to handle, so try and find a nice New Holland 256-style rake.

Secondly, good old square balers are getting hard to find. I personally have owned New Holland and IH balers, currently own an IH #37 baler and bale about 5-600 bales a year with it. You need do some research and really understand how a knotter works if you decide to buy one; they are simple once you understand them but can be overwhelming at first glance. I recommend a New Holland baler for someone starting out, but one of the newer models such as 273/276 etc. Their older balers are very, very slow and somewhat "quirky". A JD 214/224/etc might be another good model to look at, as we had a couple and had very little trouble out of them if kept greased and adjusted. And as bad as I hate to say it, I would avoid the IH balers unless you're very mechanically inclined. They have less moving parts in the knotters than NH or JD, but are very finnicky about tying knots unless they're set darn near perfect.

Finally, your soil. It will behoove you, as others said, to get your soil tested and amend it as needed. @Texasmark makes a lot of good points in his post regarding this, and I agree one hundred percent. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your endeavors!

Mac

 

[Griffthefarmer]

Thanks for the replies guy a couple follow up questions, @Mac AR regarding the 8ft disc, tractor data on the farmall m says drawbar is 33 hp and the b414 has 35hp, is it a matter of tractor weight? The b414 has a loader on it idk if that changes things? @12251HD I’ve had one run in with the pitman already lol granted it looked pretty old, just put on all new blades and converted it from the rivet mounts to bolts. Any idea what the best type of wood is for the pitman arms?

 

[jwal10]

Ash makes a good pitman, oak works, here. I am sure most hardwoods would work. I have a 454 IHC gas tractor with 2 sets of weights and 14.9x24 tires and I pull an 8' IH model 37 wheel disk just fine to the axles, plenty of power and weight. Also have a 2424 lowboy with 16" orchard tires that pulls it fine. The 454 also pulls a 2-16" IH 3pt plow just fine. Basically the same tractor, just newer. I baled a lot of hay with a 430 IH baler. I think a smaller size New Holland is a great baler. I ran a 7' 990 IH mower conditioner just fine....James

 

[Texasmark]

Thanks for the replies guy a couple follow up questions, @Mac AR regarding the 8ft disc, tractor data on the farmall m says drawbar is 33 hp and the b414 has 35hp, is it a matter of tractor weight? The b414 has a loader on it idk if that changes things? @12251HD I’ve had one run in with the pitman already lol granted it looked pretty old, just put on all new blades and converted it from the rivet mounts to bolts. Any idea what the best type of wood is for the pitman arms?

I am currently running an 8' IH disc plow with about 450# of added weight behind a CIH 895.....84 engine hp, tractor 2wd with weighted rears.....works nicely. Good match...mid range gears and mid range RPMs....just something for a reference.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Before buying all the tools I would consider hiring some of the work done like baling since you don't have the experience running /owning a baler. Just would be better to learn some of it with someone else paying the maintenance bill. Maybe have it plowed for this year and then you would not have to work your tractor to death getting started . A lot also depends on how much you are going to plant. For your corn you could just block off the seed holes in the drill box to get row spacing accordingly and run some seed out on the driveway on one row to get spacing. Will not plant the same as a corn planter but a drill would plant both your hay crop and your corn this way.

 

[Mac AR]

Thanks for the replies guy a couple follow up questions, @Mac AR regarding the 8ft disc, tractor data on the farmall m says drawbar is 33 hp and the b414 has 35hp, is it a matter of tractor weight? The b414 has a loader on it idk if that changes things? @12251HD I’ve had one run in with the pitman already lol granted it looked pretty old, just put on all new blades and converted it from the rivet mounts to bolts. Any idea what the best type of wood is for the pitman arms?

Yes, it is a matter of weight. An M will outweigh a 414 quite a bit. Also most Ms have been updated with Super M engine kits for more horsepower. Here's an example: my 300 Farmall is about 40hp and weighs about 5500 pounds. My 340 utility is also about 40hp and weighs about 3500. The 300 walks the dog with my 9' disk in 3rd gear, but my 340 has all it wants with it in 3rd and would rather be in 2nd. So weight is a big factor, as well as tire size. The loader will help but I don't know how much. We always used hickory for pitman rods, seemed like they would spring a bit rather than break when you hit something small.

Mac

 

[12251HD]

Thanks for the replies guy a couple follow up questions, @Mac AR regarding the 8ft disc, tractor data on the farmall m says drawbar is 33 hp and the b414 has 35hp, is it a matter of tractor weight? The b414 has a loader on it idk if that changes things? @12251HD I’ve had one run in with the pitman already lol granted it looked pretty old, just put on all new blades and converted it from the rivet mounts to bolts. Any idea what the best type of wood is for the pitman arms?

TSC use to be a good source for pitman rods for me. My dad use to make his own, believe he used ash.

 

[41B-boy]

Before buying all the tools I would consider hiring some of the work done like baling since you don't have the experience running /owning a baler. Just would be better to learn some of it with someone else paying the maintenance bill. Maybe have it plowed for this year and then you would not have to work your tractor to death getting started . A lot also depends on how much you are going to plant. For your corn you could just block off the seed holes in the drill box to get row spacing accordingly and run some seed out on the driveway on one row to get spacing. Will not plant the same as a corn planter but a drill would plant both your hay crop and your corn this way.

FWIW, I agree that hiring out a project you're unfamiliar with is wise. If baling hay is a new skill you want to learn, ask a trusted farmer who knows what he is doing to do the work for you with one demand... you work along side, EXPECTING to be taught like an apprentice.
Worked well for me... my Dad's recommendation. First year, I watched and didn't get in the way too much; 2nd year I worked hard alongside my pro, soaking it all up. 3rd and last year he worked alongside ME and kibbitzed a bit.
During those seasons he taught me a lot out of the field too regarding equipment needs and recommendations.
Fr. Bob

 

[hurleyjd]

Hello all, my first post on here, I’m new to the farming scene and have some questions on my tractors and what they can do. I have a massy Harris 22 and an old international B414. I am hoping to get some cows this year and also grow some field crops to feed my chickens. Some of the implements I have on the farm are a case 2 furrow drag plow, a ford 501 sickle mower and a pull type 8ft tandem disc plow with hydraulic lift of unknown brand. (Been going a little auction crazy) I’m wondering what your opinions are on if these are decent tractors to work these type of implements with. Also wanting to do small square bales and if you have any baler model suggestions for these tractors. The soil on the farm is not very deep about 2 feet at the most till limestone bed rock. I’m not sure if anyone has any experience with that type of land.

Thanks a lot for the help everybody

4600 ford would be a good tractor to look for. They are not to high priced and after market parts are available. Three point hitch on these tractors are good.

 

[ss55]

Hello all, my first post on here, I’m new to the farming scene and have some questions on my tractors and what they can do. I have a massy Harris 22 and an old international B414. I am hoping to get some cows this year and also grow some field crops to feed my chickens. Some of the implements I have on the farm are a case 2 furrow drag plow, a ford 501 sickle mower and a pull type 8ft tandem disc plow with hydraulic lift of unknown brand. (Been going a little auction crazy) I’m wondering what your opinions are on if these are decent tractors to work these type of implements with. Also wanting to do small square bales and if you have any baler model suggestions for these tractors. The soil on the farm is not very deep about 2 feet at the most till limestone bed rock. I’m not sure if anyone has any experience with that type of land.

Thanks a lot for the help everybody

Growing corn for chicken feed could be difficult with only two feet of soil over bedrock. That ground might be better suited to hay or pasture rather than row crops, early season small grins like oats might work too. I would find out what crops the ground is best suited for before investing in machinery. Buying grain or ground feed for chicken feed might be more cost effective than trying to raise corn yourself.