1963 John Deere 1010c gas engine

[John1010c]

Gentleman, I have a Gas'63 1010c I have
been completely restoring it for a little
over a year.
I have wired the machine exactly like the
book is showing. All the wiring and
switches are new. The problem is when I try
to start the engine it will fire up but die
as soon as I let go of the switch. Holding
the switch just a little longer in the
start position will cause it to run that
much longer. I'm using a resistorless coil
and the AT21567 key switch. The book calls
I believe for a pink wire to be plugged in
to the I terminal on key switch. That
I is not hot in run like it should be. Only on start . I
checked voltage on other sw. terminals and
found a terminal that isn't being used F
. F is hot in both positions and the
tractor starts and runs seemingly fine. I think the key switch is bad. I did purchase another one from the same dealer but still have the problem. Could it be a bad batch of switches the got ? The
only other problem is the genny is not
charging but I think I just got a bad apple
from the parts house. New one on the way. I
know it's a lot but would greatly
appreciate any input. Thanks in advance.
John

 

[old]

If I remember right the original wiring had a ballast resister by pass so if that is still in the circuit it is likely to be burned out or if as you said you have a true 12 volt coil it is not getting the 12 volt is needs due to the ballast resister still in the wiring

 

[Jim.ME]

I read it as all your wiring is new from what you posted, correct? You removed the resistor shown in the wiring diagram and pink goes directly to the coil, correct? If those things are correct it sounds like the switch is either marked wrong or built wrong. The "I" terminal should feed the coil.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 01/21/2023 at 03:26 pm.

 

[John1010c]

Yes sir you read it correctly. That switch
has a f terminal that the book doesn't
use. It is hot in both run and start
positions. I did move the ignition wire to
it and it starts right up and stays
running. I'm going to try to contact John
Deere's corporate office and see if they
can look into it. I think the may have sent
out a bad lot of switches. I may in the
meantime try and find an original from a
salvage yard just to see if it'll work.

 

[Jim.ME]

The switch is OEM from John Deere? Bad parts can happen anywhere. It will be interesting to hear what you get for a response.

 

[used red MN]

Please reply back with a report on how the process turns out making contact with JD corporate. A week or so ago a post got ..poofed.. on here because of accusations of a Deere dealer being of no assistance to a person with older machines. Another poster came in very heavy handed defending how helpful his Deere dealer was and his newest tractor was a 1980s model. He listed off at least 5 or so tractors he also owned older then that, some way back in the two cylinder ranks. I know for one thing a lot of people do not care for the larger regional dealers that Deere is moving to, but it is probably to a degree of necessity responding to the changes in ag demographics.

 

[rustred]

Dont have the wires on the starter solenoid correct?

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Is the I label next to two different terminals? Ive messed that up before thinking one was labeled something and they actually meant the terminal next to it. The switch terminal to find is the one that is on with key only and then back off when key off regardless what color wire should be put where and what switch terminal label is. If you dont have one that acts like keyed power with test light its possible you might have to warranty the switch

 

[buickanddeere]

Why not use bypass starting on the ignition circuit ?