2130 Bearing Roll

[ryanbanman]

Hello, I am in the process of replacing injectors, hydraulic pump, and figured I'd roll new bearings in the bottom end. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but have a diesel tech's help. I'll download a tech manual when i can afford to do so, but at the moment, was hoping someone could give me quick torque specs for the main bearings? Thank you

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Making an assumption this is John Deere with a 4239 engine?
85 mains
55 to 62 depending on bolt on the rods in reality 55 is fine for both that’s within the range according to the manual there are 2 different lengths. One is phosphate and oil coated (black) one is zinc (silver) just be aware they are different lengths. TM-1190 is what you want it will be cheaper than the tractor service manual. There is a freebie floating around on the web but it’s also 28 bucks on fleebay so good luck! Having done a 4219 fairly recently I’d suggest buying the book and skipping putting the bearings in if I only had 50 dollars to be honest unless you know you have trouble those things are tough really I had one with a bent crank that I used that way for years shaved a thousandth or two off the sides off one connecting rod. Ran beautifully. If you are contemplating going in to refresh id save up and do liners and rings while you are at it. Do it once and be done no reason to pull it apart just to do rods and mains IMO. It will make the project more expensive but in the long run it’s one less pan gasket one less chance to be in there and mess up
as far as the rest of the tractor that manual won’t help I’m afraid. I’ve never had a 2130 and that would take a different likely more expensive manual

 

[Jim.ME]

Making an assumption this is John Deere with a 4239 engine?
85 mains
55 to 62 depending on bolt on the rods in reality 55 is fine for both that’s within the range according to the manual there are 2 different lengths. One is phosphate and oil coated (black) one is zinc (silver) just be aware they are different lengths. TM-1190 is what you want it will be cheaper than the tractor service manual. There is a freebie floating around on the web but it’s also 28 bucks on fleebay so good luck! Having done a 4219 fairly recently I’d suggest buying the book and skipping putting the bearings in if I only had 50 dollars to be honest unless you know you have trouble those things are tough really I had one with a bent crank that I used that way for years shaved a thousandth or two off the sides off one connecting rod. Ran beautifully. If you are contemplating going in to refresh id save up and do liners and rings while you are at it. Do it once and be done no reason to pull it apart just to do rods and mains IMO. It will make the project more expensive but in the long run it’s one less pan gasket one less chance to be in there and mess up
as far as the rest of the tractor that manual won’t help I’m afraid. I’ve never had a 2130 and that would take a different likely more expensive manual

Looking at the JD Bookstore the engine technical manual TM1190 (covers multiple series 300 engines) is $100-$105 compared to $101 to $106 for the TM4272 (2130 tractor technical manual) which will have the engine info for 4239 in the 2130, as well as info on the rest of the tractor.

We differ on views of which to get, however we agree that a manual is the first "part" needed for this project. As I look at the manuals one could spend a hundred on the engines only manual, then have to spend another hundred on the manual for the tractor when say driveline info is needed. I know some shopping will find him better prices and the TM1190 engine only manual can likely be found for less than the full tractor manual, but I will still opt for the tractor's manual, as being more useful in the future (If one is rebuilding the different 300 series engines, then it is a different story). This site may have the manual and better prices. eBay would be another place to check.

I may be wrong; however I believe the 239 is like the 180, 202, 219 in that you can't replace the front main bearing without disassembling the front of the engine due to due to a metal block welded to the front plate, right below the front main bearing cap. And I think the oil pump has to be removed to access one or maybe both front rods to check/change the rod bearings. Removing the oil pump gear also frees the left side balance shaft to rotate freely.

 

[rustred]

Hello, I am in the process of replacing injectors, hydraulic pump, and figured I'd roll new bearings in the bottom end. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but have a diesel tech's help. I'll download a tech manual when i can afford to do so, but at the moment, was hoping someone could give me quick torque specs for the main bearings? Thank you

its very seldom a person only replaces brgs. best is to actually have a look at one or 2 and plastiguage the clearance and inspect the brg. there is a lot more wearing parts than worrying about brgs and the torque. you have the cart in front of the horse. and rolling in new brgs requires skill to prevent crank damage also. and what hrs is on this engine is of help also. the only engine i have heard of that required brgs. rolled in at a certain number of hrs was allis chalmers way back over 40 years ago. i dont remember the model.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Looking at the JD Bookstore the engine technical manual TM1190 (covers multiple series 300 engines) is $100-$105 compared to $101 to $106 for the TM4272 (2130 tractor technical manual) which will have the engine info for 4239 in the 2130, as well as info on the rest of the tractor.

We differ on views of which to get, however we agree that a manual is the first "part" needed for this project. As I look at the manuals one could spend a hundred on the engines only manual, then have to spend another hundred on the manual for the tractor when say driveline info is needed. I know some shopping will find him better prices and the TM1190 engine only manual can likely be found for less than the full tractor manual, but I will still opt for the tractor's manual, as being more useful in the future (If one is rebuilding the different 300 series engines, then it is a different story). This site may have the manual and better prices. eBay would be another place to check.

I may be wrong; however I believe the 239 is like the 180, 202, 219 in that you can't replace the front main bearing without disassembling the front of the engine due to due to a metal block welded to the front plate, right below the front main bearing cap. And I think the oil pump has to be removed to access one or maybe both front rods to check/change the rod bearings. Removing the oil pump gear also frees the left side balance shaft to rotate freely.

I respect you opinion the one thing about the engine manual is there was a freebie one available that does look correct as well.

You are correct the oil pump will have to come down but I think that’s it the 1st 4219 I did inframe and I haven’t pulled a front cover on one. The second I did on the rotator stand so water pump And one side frame came off and tractor was split but water pump is more because it needed help it could have stayed unless there’s something on that particular tractor in the way he should be ok unless I’m misremembering something or just plain did it without thinking I don’t think I touched the front. Balancers should be up higher out of the way in the block they won’t be down below like 3020.

 

[Jim.ME]

I respect you opinion the one thing about the engine manual is there was a freebie one available that does look correct as well.

You are correct the oil pump will have to come down but I think that’s it the 1st 4219 I did inframe and I haven’t pulled a front cover on one. The second I did on the rotator stand so water pump And one side frame came off and tractor was split but water pump is more because it needed help it could have stayed unless there’s something on that particular tractor in the way he should be ok unless I’m misremembering something or just plain did it without thinking I don’t think I touched the front. Balancers should be up higher out of the way in the block they won’t be down below like 3020.

If it is free that one thing, if one has to buy it is another.

On the ones I have been into: The oil pump can be removed to get to the front rods for an in-frame. The oil pump gear drives the left balance shaft, so that balance shaft is free to rotate when the pump gear is pulled. On at least some there is a block welded, I believe, to the front plate that prevents removing the front main bearing cap. The block is threaded to accept the capscrew that the lower idler gear rides on. Access to that capscrew requires pulling the front cover to access the head of capscrew. The oil pump had been removed, to access the front two rods for an in-frame, in these pictures of a 4-180 gas engine, I am quite certain the 4-219 is the same (from corresponding with someone who thought they wanted to roll mains into a 4-219 but couldn't get the front main cap out). I have not had a 4-239 apart but am guessing has the same layout is used in the other engines.

In any case, it appears we agree, there is more involved here than just the torque of the main bearing caps, and that he should have a manual that covers the engine in hand before starting.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

If it is free that one thing, if one has to buy it is another.

On the ones I have been into: The oil pump can be removed to get to the front rods for an in-frame. The oil pump gear drives the left balance shaft, so that balance shaft is free to rotate when the pump gear is pulled. On at least some there is a block welded, I believe, to the front plate that prevents removing the front main bearing cap. The block is threaded to accept the capscrew that the lower idler gear rides on. Access to that capscrew requires pulling the front cover to access the head of capscrew. The oil pump had been removed, to access the front two rods for an in-frame, in these pictures of a 4-180 gas engine, I am quite certain the 4-219 is the same (from corresponding with someone who thought they wanted to roll mains into a 4-219 but couldn't get the front main cap out). I have not had a 4-239 apart but am guessing has the same layout is used in the other engines.

In any case, it appears we agree, there is more involved here than just the torque of the main bearing caps, and that he should have a manual that covers the engine in hand before starting.

View attachment 67450View attachment 67452

Yeah that block certainly looks like it would be an issue. I know I don’t remember that on mine especially that was shoehorned in that 2510. Yes book is required

 

[ryanbanman]

Thank you all for your help. While I have a diesel mechanics help, my experience is really only with semi trucks so typically wehn unsure of the bottom end, for the price of bearings with an unknown unit, we might do bearings just for peice of mind.

I"m unsure of the exact hours on this tractor and have had t for 7 years and so just thought for piece of mind. but sounds like it might be unnecessary at this time and a little more involved than doing so on a semi truck.

Thank you for the info on what manual i should look for. I"ll start with that first. I found a TM-4272 manual on ebay I think I'll order. As this is my only tractor at the moment.