bcdave

Member
I just bought a 56 CASE 311. The brakes are both froze up. Anyone have a way to release the brakes without taking them apart? I tried to tow it backwards but they didn't release, I can't get to it to tow it forward.
Thanks for any help
Dave
 
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Thank you. I was afraid of that. It has a loader and under body grader blade so it's a little tight. Looks like the fenders and floor boards have to come off.
Dave
 
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There is a drain hole in the bottom than one could shoot a solvent into but it still would need disassembly later even if it worked. Good find on the tractor. Just a heads up on things to do. Nobody ever oils the distributor top hole of shaft and side oiler. That distributor is getting real pricey if you can find one. The front steering worm gear housing is usually dry, nobody adds gear oil, and the reason your tach and speedometer don't work is the cables are twisted off from no one oiling them under the gage cluster. If the light socket holes are open under the gage cluster it most likely has mud dobber nests or other insect debris inside the cluster. Clean the inside before you put new cables on or you can tear up the delicate springs. I've got three 311's and other models that have similar setups so I've BTDT.
 
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I just bought a 56 CASE 311. The brakes are both froze up. Anyone have a way to release the brakes without taking them apart? I tried to tow it backwards but they didn't release, I can't get to it to tow it forward.
Thanks for any help
Dave
Can you loosen the bolts holding the brake drum on and move the drum out a little? May allow you to pull it and loosen them up some. Eventually you will have to take them all apart and clean.
 
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There is a drain hole in the bottom than one could shoot a solvent into but it still would need disassembly later even if it worked. Good find on the tractor. Just a heads up on things to do. Nobody ever oils the distributor top hole of shaft and side oiler. That distributor is getting real pricey if you can find one. The front steering worm gear housing is usually dry, nobody adds gear oil, and the reason your tach and speedometer don't work is the cables are twisted off from no one oiling them under the gage cluster. If the light socket holes are open under the gage cluster it most likely has mud dobber nests or other insect debris inside the cluster. Clean the inside before you put new cables on or you can tear up the delicate springs. I've got three 311's and other models that have similar setups so I've BTDT.
Thank you for all the information. I will try loosening the bolts. With all the hardware it is a tight fit to get at it. If I can just get them loose I can load it. Thanks for all the other advice also. When I get it home, I will go over it.
Dave
 
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Can you loosen the bolts holding the brake drum on and move the drum out a little? May allow you to pull it and loosen them up some. Eventually you will have to take them all apart and clean.
Can you tell me is it positive or negative ground and 6 or 12 volt. I need to get a manual.
Thanks
Dave Barker
 
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First, I would remove the brake linkage, may be all bound up. Chain up the bucket and blade. Air up the tires. Then rock it back and forth pushing on the tires, or using a chain. Did it drag the tires or just not enough pull? Sure it is out of gear and not a trans or rear gear problem....James
 
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First, I would remove the brake linkage, may be all bound up. Chain up the bucket and blade. Air up the tires. Then rock it back and forth pushing on the tires, or using a chain. Did it drag the tires or just not enough pull? Sure it is out of gear and not a trans or rear gear problem....James

First, I would remove the brake linkage, may be all bound up. Chain up the bucket and blade. Air up the tires. Then rock it back and forth pushing on the tires, or using a chain. Did it drag the tires or just not enough pull? Sure it is out of gear and not a trans or rear gear problem....James
It is out of gear. I tried to tow it. I skid the tires. I did air up the tires. The right front needs to be replaced. I will loosen the brakes and see if anything breaks loose. If it doesn't work they will have to be removed. Just want to get it loaded to get it home. It hasn't been running for a while but it is loose.. A cool project.
Thanks for the assistance
Dave
 
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I don't think loosening the cover will get you anywhere as the discs are likely rusted. Pull the cover completely off the transmission, the brake assembly will come off the differential shaft.
Diff brakes 1.jpg
Diff brakes 2.jpg
 
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Can you tell me is it positive or negative ground and 6 or 12 volt. I need to get a manual.
Thanks
Dave Barker
Originally 6 volt positive ground, however it looks like the coil may have been recently replaced which might be the first indication of a 12 volt conversion. Look to see if an alternator has been installed if so it is of course almost 95 percent
guaranteed to be a 12 volt system and likely negative ground. If you are not sure which, take the wires off the alternator and tape them back as needed so they can’t short on anything. Then connect the battery however the terminals seem to fit the posts best. Then you can investigate what you have for certain when you get it home.
 
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I just bought a 56 CASE 311. The brakes are both froze up. Anyone have a way to release the brakes without taking them apart? I tried to tow it backwards but they didn't release, I can't get to it to tow it forward.
Thanks for any help
Dave
Do have a original parts manual for sale for your 311 Round nose. for sale. nice tractor. jc
 
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