Converting to Electronic Ignition

RTR

Well-known Member
What all is needed to convert an old tractor over to electronic ignition? I know the ignitor kit and the flamethrower coil is needed, but what else?

Tractors in question are Farmall Cub, Farmall 140, Allis Chalmers D-12, Allis Chalmers D-17, Oliver 70, and a 1974 International 200 pickup with a 345v8.
 
What all is needed to convert an old tractor over to electronic ignition? I know the ignitor kit and the flamethrower coil is needed, but what else?

Tractors in question are Farmall Cub, Farmall 140, Allis Chalmers D-12, Allis Chalmers D-17, Oliver 70, and a 1974 International 200 pickup with a 345v8.
You don't want solid core plug wires so I would change them.
 
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I know I'm old school here but I would keep the point systems. Simple and easy to trouble shoot. I had some experience with Chrysler electronic ignition systems. They were ok but could let you down. Had a Cavalier electronic ignition let me down once. Cost me a tow and a catalytic converter. I once switched a Chrysler 318 V-8 over to a point system with great success. Of course with newer products it's not an option. My humble opinion and I'm sure I'll take some heat for it. 😬
 
Do you mean new as in DIFFERENT TYPE rotor and cap?
Yep. Just put a Pertronix on a Prestolite distributor and had to use a different shape rotor and directions specified numbers for either a BW, NAPA, or SMP cap. The new SMP cap looked just like the Prestolite 1003 cap to me.
 
Spiral wound ignition wires . Graphite resistors fail . Solids burn out the solid state components .

A low rpm , low compression four cylinder . Does not need an ignition coil designed for a supercharged V8 .
 
So if your coil and cap are ok nothing appears wrong you should be able to use the original there might be a specific one that won't quite fit but usually they are the same size as the plate for the points you are taking out if anything smaller. There will be a warning label in the kit and instructions if it needs a resistor. Generally if you pick the correct kit you won't need to change anything unless you have been throwing coils at it often and its possible you have the wrong one on to start with or aren't wired right My rule of thumb is make them run even poorly first then convert. If it can't run at all you probably aren't going to fix anything this way. Knock on wood I have replaced one coil on an old tractor and I've had 9 gas tractors thru in the last 3 years get them put on. Perhaps that's because its what everyone try's first for the easy win before I see it. If you aren't planning on converting any of them to 12 volt with alternators you just need to look at each tractor individually and see is it 12 volt or 6 and is negative or positive ground. Then we will do the Farmall 140 for example. Go to Parts at yesterdays tractor. Then to the farmall, 140, electrical. Halfway down the page there will be the kits. Pick the one for you voltage. Repeat for all the tractors pretty easy and its honestly my favorite way from any company to find the right one for tractors. If you have any desire to convert them to 12 volt however now is the time. If you are already setup to deal with 6 volt fairly easily and you have a lot to do in this case I wouldn't go to the added expense of converting them. If it was your only classic tractor taking it on the parade want to jump it with the car if you needed to...Im not saying its not better and I like the super c I have that way but not necessary performance wise if you want to use them. If you have distributors that are just showing some age if you push on the shaft and it moves a long ways (i've got one you can see the cap sway side to side in kind of a rotating lope not saying its good but its a ford 2000 lawnmower who cares runs great!) and you don't want to replace them or rebuild them yourself and you are tired of gapping and cleaning the points this will help immensely.
 
I spent hours double checking and wondering what was wrong with a 40 JD .
Traced out an incorrect firing order as it was running on only one cylinder .

Would have been better if I had double checked the part numbers and ordered the proper kit in the first place .
 
How could a two banger even run with the firing order off. I would probably call it the distributor was out of time. They must of had it timed to fire the one cylinder it was hitting on to terminal right before the two dummy terminals. Then the second cylinder spark had nowhere to go. But I see what you are saying if the electronic pickup couldn’t fire at the correct spot.
 

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I know on the mags it’s easy to line up and if you get it wrong you just flip the plug wires and away you go. Too bad they don’t just waste a spark and use all 4 holes. You could run 4 wires or splice them at the cap and be that much less likely to have a failure...never seen someone splice a spark plug wire into another but I’m sure it’s been done
 
I know I'm old school here but I would keep the point systems. Simple and easy to trouble shoot. I had some experience with Chrysler electronic ignition systems. They were ok but could let you down. Had a Cavalier electronic ignition let me down once. Cost me a tow and a catalytic converter. I once switched a Chrysler 318 V-8 over to a point system with great success. Of course with newer products it's not an option. My humble opinion and I'm sure I'll take some heat for it. 😬
Though allegedly EI improves starting faster, EI only eliminates the need to install breaker points and set timing. They were made for guys who can't do this the correct conventional way. FORD N-Series 39-49 with the front mount distributor are notorious for EI switch out jobs because some fellas do not understand the front mount and how to do a proper tuneup. Unit is removed and on your bench. Timing is set a certain way and no timing light is used. Camshaft head and dist Cam & Weights are offset. Must be mounted one way only. This it the part that guys miss and they end up with a busted distributor base. then unit won't work or functions badly. I have never had a need nor desire to use EI in my FORDS. I know the system well. Have done over 250 front mounts in my life. ALL my tractors are as is, OEM ---6V/POS GRN. I'd go to 12V before EI every time.

FYI: EI works best on 12V too. Get a 12V verified Coil as well.

Tim Daley (MI)
 
Though allegedly EI improves starting faster, EI only eliminates the need to install breaker points and set timing. They were made for guys who can't do this the correct conventional way. FORD N-Series 39-49 with the front mount distributor are notorious for EI switch out jobs because some fellas do not understand the front mount and how to do a proper tuneup. Unit is removed and on your bench. Timing is set a certain way and no timing light is used. Camshaft head and dist Cam & Weights are offset. Must be mounted one way only. This it the part that guys miss and they end up with a busted distributor base. then unit won't work or functions badly. I have never had a need nor desire to use EI in my FORDS. I know the system well. Have done over 250 front mounts in my life. ALL my tractors are as is, OEM ---6V/POS GRN. I'd go to 12V before EI every time.

FYI: EI works best on 12V too. Get a 12V verified Coil as well.

Tim Daley (MI)
You certainly must time them with ei. Is it more forgiving? Probably. distributor wise all you have to do is make sure the magnet is on the right way and there will be detailed instructions with the kit. Timing procedure for the tractor does not change. The idea is to make spark plugs the only part of the tune up that is necessary anymore. One and done unless you leave the ignition on then it’s another 100 dollar bill that goes bye bye. One thing I’ve done to a couple that had that problem is add a master switch at the battery it’s unlikely both switches will be forgotten once they have the routine. Points are cheap if you have the time to fiddle with them. I see both sides and I have happier customers with the electronic put in because they for the most part won’t be back for that ever. Distributor will fall off the tractor before the ei fails as long as the battery is kept up.
Just like anything else the kids aren’t exposed to breaker points much anymore. Same with Eaton 10 speed in trucks. Works for me as I had one growing up but most fresh out of school you can’t throw in and expect good results. Do we sit in the office and complain about how the kids take the ring gear out of the diff when they are sent out the first time or do we buy the darn automatic that you will have to put brake shoes on annually that they are used to advance the clock 30 years and move on with life? Unfortunately the former is mostly what happens...Doesn’t keep the kids around. Same goes for the old tractors the kids are much more likely to be successful no matter what the problem was when they popped the cap off its highly likely they will fix it be it condenser points or worn distributor housing. once they are finished can start that tractor in less than a second and a half for 15 years no problems no matter if it sits for long periods with the ei. The reason all the old timers know how to gap points is they were in there constantly by comparison fiddling.
 

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