English Ford Industrial Diesel Engine

tj205

New User
Greetings and thank you for letting me join your community.

I recently purchased a 1964 Timberjack 205 and based on the serial number stamped on the side of the engine and the fact that it uses a simms pump, I've surmised that it came with a Ford 220 diesel engine. It runs beautifully when it starts however without any glow plugs or block heater the little engine does not enjoy starting in the cold.

While going over the machine, I noticed a block heater was installed but did not appears to work. Further testing using my multimeter confirmed that it was dead. I brought it to my local NAPA and purchased a replacement based on the model number stamped on the plug. Unfortunately to my surprise, the new block heater plug is a bit smaller than the old one. I simply cannot get it to seal up. Doesn't anyone have a part number from Zerostart or Temro that will work?

I'd also like to convert the engine oil filter to a spin on. Is there an adapter kit made for this engine?

And finally, are there any things that I should specifically look out for on these engines? It runs great as is and my ears and neighbours are grateful that I did not get a skidder with a detroit diesel.

As a side note, if anyone needs info rebuilding a gearmatic 8a winch, I'd be happy to share part numbers or any other info on it. I'm almost done completely rebuilding the surprisingly expensive little bugger.

cheers

EDIT

I found this thread:

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ford&th=720001

It identifies a temro 3100087 block heater as being compatible with a 1963 Ford 4000 tractor. However that tractor has the 172ci gas or diesel engine. Do the 172ci and 220ci engines use the same block?

This post was edited by tj205 on 12/01/2023 at 04:12 am.
 
Welcome aboard. The 220 diesel would be a Fordson Major engine built over in England so you are gonna have alittle more difficulty with finding parts.
The Ford diesels are hard starters when cold unless it's in top shape and a strong battery.
This diesel and the 134/172 would not be parts interchangeable but POSSIBLE the oil filter adapter would interchange. Someone here will fill you in better on this.
Sidenote: I love those detroit diesels! Loud, smoky, raw power.

This post was edited by Tom in Mo. on 12/01/2023 at 04:39 am.
 
If it is a Major diesel engine it has an excess fuel button on the pump to aid starting. Not sure
how cold you are getting but, even in our coldest winter, Majors were known for their ease of
starting. In later years farms kept a Major to tow start other more modern makes in cold weather.
Once took my Major to a local farm and tow started four other make, tractors during a cold snap.

If you can keep the wind from the engine with a sheet or a shed they will usually fire straight up.
 
If that is a Major engine, as Majorman says, the pivot that the fuel stop lever is on, is a fuel enrichment device. Open the throttle a
little, and push it inward for cold start. I don't know of any spin on filter conversions for the Majors. The 1000 series yes.
 
Thank you for the replies.

I took a closer look at the fuel shutoff lever. There definitely was some type of additional device that was somehow attached to it but whatever it was is long gone.

A combination of block and oil pan heaters should alleviate the hard start problem. While it is quite warm here for this time of the year (5 C right now), I do plan on using the machine down to -25 C/-13 F. Anything colder than that and I'm the one that can't start in the morning.

As a side note/question, the starter appears to be an old style model with no gear reduction. I'm sure there are modern versions available that could spin the engine a bit more efficiently?

Bummer on the spin-on adapter. Does anyone know off hand what the engine oil filter part number is then? My local NAPA couldn't find it in their system.

And right you are on the Temro - zerostart block heater. I remeasured the plug hole and I think I need a 1 5/8" plug size. I will confirm once I try the installation next Monday.
 
(quoted from post at 17:24:29 12/01/23) A picture of the engine and pump would be very helpful to help you sort it out.

Indeed. I took a few pictures of the pump this afternoon. I will try to get a few more of the block.

Let's see if I can figure out image posting.

mvphoto111995.jpg


mvphoto111996.jpg


That was easy!

I will be draining the oil once I install the correct block heater as I want to run the engine long enough to heat up the oil before changing it. But I think you found the correct one. thank you
 
That is a Super Major based engine. Right in the centre of the stop lever there is a lttle rod
sticking out. Open the throttle half way and push that rod in. It should stick there then fly out
once the engine is started.

There is oil in that pump, the filer is a 15/16th spanner size plug on the top, the level plug is
shown on your picture and the drain is underneath. When you drain it, it will be a mixture of
diesel and oil, this is normal. The oil in the pump should be changed every time you change the
engine oil. 1/3rd English pint.

Oil filter is the one shown in another post, do not forget to change the sealing ring, you may
have to dig it out of the groove in the housing.


cvphoto167854.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 04:14:51 12/02/23) That is a Super Major based engine.
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto167854.jpg>

Thank you for the information. I found the excess fuel button right where you said it would be. I haven't had time to do much of anything on the engine but I hope to do a complete fluid change this week now that I finally found the correct block heater. In case anyone wants the correct part number, it is 3100054 temro/zerostart.
 
When you drain the oil, stick your finger in the drain hole and feel the bottom of the oil pan. If it has a layer of sludge, your new oil
will dirty up quickly. Get a 16 oz. can of Sea Foam...at most any farm/auto parts store. Put in your fresh oil and new filter. Add the
can of SF, Run the engine half an hour at moderate speed. Shut it off and drain the oil, feeling the pan again. If its still there repeat
the process. If its gone, refill with new oil and filter and enjoy your clean oil.
 
Just a quick update.

I managed to find a bit of time to install the block and oil pan** heaters as well as change the oil. No sludge but the oil looked quite old.

The Wix 51193 filter turned out the be the wrong one as it was too long to fit in the canister. I found the Wix 51188/Carquest 96357 and it worked fine. I also changed the oil in the injection pump. It was mostly diesel fuel that came out. I think I will have to reseal it as it appears to be leaking from a few areas.

I still have the fuel filter to change but I'm currently finishing up the winch rebuild.

**I purchased a magnetic oil pan heater only to find out that the oil pan is made out of aluminium! I had to buy a stick-on pan heater.

Thanks again for all the information and feedback.
 
Instructions for block heater should say not to run the tractor with the heater plugged in. It can cause the heater to burn out from air bubbles.
 

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