Ford 2000 throttle/governor issues

[Brahierbottom]

When I start the tractor if I open the throttle just a bit the RPMS jump away up and the only time I can get it back down is if I close the throttle which ends up shutting off the tractor. I recently rebuilt the carburetor and it ran okay and sounded great. But I couldn't get it to travel at its regular speed. It was traveling slower than usual. And when it was under load it slowed to a crawl. One thing I noticed is when I open the throttle, the idler screw completely opens and only when I close the throttle does it go back.

 

[Sean in PA]

It's always best to specify whether your 2000 is an earlier 4 cylinder 2000 or a later 3 cylinder 2000. They both share a common basic functional design in the way that the external throttle and governor linkages are supposed to work, but their implementations are different. Are the linkages all hooked up properly and adjusted properly? Is the governor itself functioning properly?

 

[Brahierbottom]

It's always best to specify whether your 2000 is an earlier 4 cylinder 2000 or a later 3 cylinder 2000. They both share a common basic functional design in the way that the external throttle and governor linkages are supposed to work, but their implementations are different. Are the linkages all hooked up properly and adjusted properly? Is the governor itself functioning properly?

It's a 3 cylinder, sorry I forgot to mention that. The linkage was put back to how it was before rebuilding the carb. I didn't think to adjust anything as I didn't change anything in terms of the governor and it's linkage. Just the carburetor was rebuilt. The only thing I changed that may have changed something was I replaced the throttle shaft that goes into the carb.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I have a hard time getting mine to work just right, too. The OP or Service manuals will tell you how to set up the linkage. It isn't easy. The long rod from the bell crank to the governor has to be set to a specific length and there are two styles of bell crank. My problem is after setting the length and hooking up the spring there is a gap from the hood to the rod end. If I adjust the gap out the throttle is too sensitive and it will not get up to PTO speed and stay there. With the gap I have to advance the lever quite a bit for the throttle to respond. It always gives me fits. If you had the carb off for the rebuild you'll have to reset everything. They never go back on quite the same.

 

[sotxbill]

I have three that I got in 2 months ago. All of them had horrible governor hunting problems. Lubing up the governor pivot points and the carb throttle shaft fixed the 2600 gas.... An oil change and running the 4000 lcg gas engine took about 3 days of running and shredding fix it. The 2000 still is a beast but will settle down after about 20 minutes of running, but still not perfect but tolerable. However I sold the 2000 last week before I could put more 20 minute runs on it... The 4000 lcg is now almost perfect... So guess I am saying lubing the linkage, and running them with fresh oil does help get the governor discs clean up a bit and slowing improving the response and fidelity. The throttle shafts were tight and binding and the internals of the governor were gooped up with sludge?????? So I feel like I got lucky.. These tractors all had set up for a very long time.... The diesels are pretty much all gone and now its mostly the gas models are all that coming to market. I do use 15w-40 hd diesel oil which it FULLLLLLL of detergents compared to gas motor oils..Which ever one is cheapest at wally world... Mobil, Chevron, or Shell...

 

[MarkB_MI]

If it won't idle, the idle fuel passage in the carburetor is blocked. Disassemble the carb and clean out all the jets and passageways with a fine wire or torch cleaner.