Ford 5600 Dual Power single speed PTO clutch replacement

[toolgarage]

All,

I have a PTO clutch that is in need of replacement on my 5600. When I look at the Ford service manual, it states to crack the tractor between the front and rear transmissions to access the PTO clutch. When I look online there are references to accessing/replacing the PTO clutch by removing the hydraulic lift cover. Can anyone give guidance on which way to go to replace the PTO clutch on a 5600 with dual power, single speed 540RPM PTO? I would much prefer to go in via the lift cover, but if I have to split the tractor as the only option, then so be it.

Thanks!

 

[Bern]

You only need to split the tractor if it has Load Monitor, which was standard on the 7600 but a very rare option on the 5600.

 

[toolgarage]

(reply to post at 05:14:57 06/19/21)

Thanks Bern - Not sure I know what load power is. Any way to describe what to look for to determine?

 

[toolgarage]

Meant to say load monitor.

I was cutting a bunch of saplings (1-2") yesterday with my brush mower, and the PTO bogged then started to slip. Guessing I wiped out the clutch disks. I've only had the tractor a few years - hard to tell how far gone the plates were before I got the tractor.

 

[Bern]

Do you have a pair of what appear to be useless hydraulic couplers
on the back of the tractor? If not, you dont have Load Monitor.

 

[toolgarage]

Nope. I have two pair of hydro ports for valves under the seat, but those are for 3pt attachments. If I don't have these, am I able to access the PTO clutch pack from the top instead of splitting?

 

[Bern]

Yes, you can access the PTO clutch through the top cover.

Two important things regarding top cover removal. 1) Make sure you
remove the hidden bolt under the RH lift arm. 2) Remove the lube
tube from the side of the lift cylinder. The tube sits inside the filter
manifold.

 

[toolgarage]

Thanks Bern. Other than the top cover seal and the clutch plates, anything else I should replace while I'm in there?

 

[Bern]

Inspect the rear clutch support closely for wear. The part that the seal
rings ride in.

 

[RodinNS]

Before you dive in I'd also do a pressure test on the clutch hydraulic system. Tee into the dual power feed line. You may find it lacking pressure hence the slippage. You want 160-180 psi at operating temperature at a fast idle. Check with the pto engaged and disengaged as well as dual power in high AND low. Pressure should be the same throughout. If it's not you have a leak. If it's universally low that would indicate a plugged pump strainer, faulty regulating valve or blown o-ring on the pressure tube between the pump and pto control valve. Many a clutch has been torn apart on these things only to have the problem found in the hydraulics after a pile of money and time is wasted.
In terms of accessing the clutch should that be the issue, the only comment I'd make in addition to what Bern has told you... make sure the top link rocker will come off without a fight before you go deep into the lift cover because that you bearing retainer in front of it must come off and the top pto shaft come out to do the clutch through the top. If the pin is seized hard in there and you have an open station tractor I'd probably elect to split it. I've ripped at them both ways and neither one is especially easy so size it up carefully first.

Rod

 

[RickB]

Clutch pack piston seals and seal rings for the clutch drum/support.

 

[toolgarage]

Rodin - Any idea what the port size is on the dual power feed port? I've got a test gauge coming, but would like to pick up an adapter before driving the hundred miles to get to the tractor. Thanks!.

 

[Bern]

There is none - you'll have to make your own. Remove the elbow fitting on the dual power feed line (the smaller of the two)
and drill and tap a 1/8 NPT hole into the side of the elbow.

 

[toolgarage]

(quoted from post at 05:46:40 06/24/21) There is none - you'll have to make your own. Remove the elbow fitting on the dual power feed line (the smaller of the two)
and drill and tap a 1/8 NPT hole into the side of the elbow.

Can I run the test by just removing the elbow and screwing the gauge on where the elbow was connected - leaving the elbow disconnected for the test? that is what is shown in the service manual, but wasn't sure if that was the proper way to test. If yes, what is the size of the fitting where the elbow mounts?

 

[RodinNS]

Not exactly. If you do what you describe
you will only be testing the pto and
control valve in isolation which is
relevant at times. However the first step
is to test the system in its totality
including the dual power. If you have a
leak in the dual power you will not catch
it by only testing the pto... and a leak in
the dual power could very well be the cause
of the pto issue.

Rod

 

[RodinNS]

Like Bern said, original pumps had no port.
Later replacement pumps had a 1/8 NPT port
in the gallery above the line. I've placed
a tee in the line between the pump and dual
power feed line or you can tap the hex
adapter in there like Bern suggested.

Rod

 

[toolgarage]

So better to put a "T" fitting on for testing (To keep the system sealed), then either remove the "T", or cap the "T" when done.

 

[Bern]

I suppose you could add a T fitting if you want, however I myself would simply remove the existing elbow, drill and tap it for
1/8 NPT pipe and pressure test the entire system at that point. Once you're done testing, plug the hole with a pipe plug.