Gearmatic 8A winch

[John1010c]

Gentleman, just finished installing a Gearmatic 8A winch on my 1010c. It's been completely rebuilt and the controller. I mounted the controller lever facing the operator left side. It is my understanding that if you push the lever forward that is the free-spool position and it will stay there on its own. Pull it back past center and this will start spooling line in. Mine is doing the opposite or at least the spooling in part. If I push forward the winch spools in. I've checked the connections they match up. Would greatly appreciate your input.....

 

[Jim.ME]

Gentleman, just finished installing a Gearmatic 8A winch on my 1010c. It's been completely rebuilt and the controller. I mounted the controller lever facing the operator left side. It is my understanding that if you push the lever forward that is the free-spool position and it will stay there on its own. Pull it back past center and this will start spooling line in. Mine is doing the opposite or at least the spooling in part. If I push forward the winch spools in. I've checked the connections they match up. Would greatly appreciate your input.....

If you pull the lever fully to the rear, does it stay there? That would confirm it is the brake spool of the controller and working correctly. In that case the brake control should be the master cylinder at the front of the controller. If you want free spool by pushing the lever forward, just rotate the mounting of the controller 180 degrees, so the brake master cylinder of the controller is at the rear of the controller unit.

If the control lever won't travel fully forward and stay there now, the controller or brake in the winch is not adjusted properly. The controller should operate the functions properly, even if it is mounted backwards, causing the actuation directions of the lever to be backwards from what the manual calls for.

 

[John1010c]

If I push the lever fully forward it stays. If I pull it back it is spring loaded and return's to center which is I believe "brake applied " ......

 

[Jim.ME]

If I push the lever fully forward it stays. If I pull it back it is spring loaded and return's to center which is I believe "brake applied " ......

Ok. Turn the whole controller 180 degrees, bolt it down and the lever will work the way you want it to. Winch in pushing forward and brake released when you pull back. Just be sure you rework the tubing to attach to the same ports on the controller as they currently attach to.

 

[Jim.ME]

Ok. Turn the whole controller 180 degrees, bolt it down and the lever will work the way you want it to. Winch in pushing forward and brake released when you pull back. Just be sure you rework the tubing to attach to the same ports on the controller as they currently attach to.

In rereading I think I misread part of your post, and I am going to change what I posted a bit. If the winch winds in when you push forward on the lever and it will lock forward, you need to turn the controller 180 to have the lever lock to the rear. Then you need to connect the tubes to the opposite ends of the controller from what they were. Lever pushed forward should put fluid out the rear master controller port to operate the wind in clutch. Lever pulled/locked towards the rear of the crawler should put fluid out the front port of the controller for the brake operation.

If the lever was locking to the rear currently, you would only need to change the tubing to the opposite ports from where you have them. Since you say it locks forward currently, the controller needs to turn 180 and the tubing connections need to swap positions as well.

 

[John1010c]

Thank you very much for your input. So just to be clear, and this is my first winch btw. This is the correct orientation as intended from the factory ? The handle will be on the outside away from the operator ....

 

[John1010c]

I just received your update. So leave the lines where they sit and just rotate the controller 180 ?.....

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you very much for your input. So just to be clear, and this is my first winch btw. This is the correct orientation as intended from the factory ? The handle will be on the outside away from the operator ....

I just received your update. So leave the lines where they sit and just rotate the controller 180 ?.....

Ok, if the lever will stay fully forward now, just move the tubing lines to the opposite fittings on the controller.

As for handle inside or outside. It has been years since my 430 with an 8A went away but if I remember right the controller could be handle in or out and work depending on how the internal linkages and their matching master cylinders were assembled on the controller body. I think the shaft only goes in one way, but the cylinders can fit on either end of the main body.

 

[John1010c]

Ok, if the lever will stay fully forward now, just move the tubing lines to the opposite fittings on the controller.

As for handle inside or outside. It has been years since my 430 with an 8A went away but if I remember right the controller could be handle in or out and work depending on how the internal linkages and their matching master cylinders were assembled on the controller body. I think the shaft only goes in one way, but the cylinders can fit on either end of the main body.

Yes the controller only has one side for the lever. The cylinders could be swapped to either end. One cyl is obsolete I don't remember which one but the new ones they send you are the same.
On another note do you recall what wire rope lay should be used ? Right or left lay ? From what I've read I'm thinking left lay because it spools in from the top ....

 

[Jim.ME]

Yes the controller only has one side for the lever. The cylinders could be swapped to either end. One cyl is obsolete I don't remember which one but the new ones they send you are the same.
On another note do you recall what wire rope lay should be used ? Right or left lay ? From what I've read I'm thinking left lay because it spools in from the top ....

We ran what we had for cable and didn't get into a specific lay. I never had a winch cable that didn't end up with kinks in it after working in the woods for any length of time, so couldn't see the lay was as important as it is on cranes.

 

[John1010c]

In rereading I think I misread part of your post, and I am going to change what I posted a bit. If the winch winds in when you push forward on the lever and it will lock forward, you need to turn the controller 180 to have the lever lock to the rear. Then you need to connect the tubes to the opposite ends of the controller from what they were. Lever pushed forward should put fluid out the rear master controller port to operate the wind in clutch. Lever pulled/locked towards the rear of the crawler should put fluid out the front port of the controller for the brake operation.

If the lever was locking to the rear currently, you would only need to change the tubing to the opposite ports from where you have them. Since you say it locks forward currently, the controller needs to turn 180 and the tubing connections need to swap positions as well.

Good morning Jim, I just now have had a chance to get back to this project. Yes when I push the lever forward it stays and reels in the cable. If I understand what you're saying, all I need to do is just turn the whole control valve 180 and hook the lines back up ? Thanks for your help, John

 

[Jim.ME]

Good morning Jim, I just now have had a chance to get back to this project. Yes when I push the lever forward it stays and reels in the cable. If I understand what you're saying, all I need to do is just turn the whole control valve 180 and hook the lines back up ? Thanks for your help, John

I misstated what I meant. When the lever locks (stays) forward the brake should be released into "free spool'' so you can pull the cable out. When you pull back it should not lock-- that would be winching cable in. So, if it locks (stays) forward now, just swap the lines to the opposite ends of the control valve from where they are now, there is no need to turn the controller around.