ID help TO35 MF35 or something else?

[Termite]

Hello all. I’ve got my father-in-law’s tractor at my place for various tasks and could use some help with getting an ID on it before taking on some repairs it needs. First and foremost is the slipping clutch that has been contaminated with transmission oil. Serial number plate was originally mounted to left of steering wheel but has been gone longer than I’ve been in the family (15 years now).

Any help you folks could offer with an ID would be appreciated greatly. He was told it is an MF35 model with a serial number of 161368. Engine tag says Z-134619479.
Thank you,
Termite

 

[pomester]

Hello all. I’ve got my father-in-law’s tractor at my place for various tasks and could use some help with getting an ID on it before taking on some repairs it needs. First and foremost is the slipping clutch that has been contaminated with transmission oil. Serial number plate was originally mounted to left of steering wheel but has been gone longer than I’ve been in the family (15 years now).


View attachment 66878
Any help you folks could offer with an ID would be appreciated greatly. He was told it is an MF35 model with a serial number of 161368. Engine tag says Z-134619479.
Thank you,
Termite

TO-35. Single or two stage clutch? If the serial number info is correct, it is of 1955 production. Seal replacement is a bit tricky, make sure you have a manual.

 

[Termite]

TO-35. Single or two stage clutch? If the serial number info is correct, it is of 1955 production. Seal replacement is a bit tricky, make sure you have a manual.

I think two stage. Half down on pedal for transmission, full down for pto. What prompted me to finally join here was the itch to buy the manuals, once not twice before investing in any parts for the wrong model.

Jensales currently has the operators, parts, and service manual kit for $55 as a pdf download (plus tax, etc.). Paper copy set is ~$179. This would be the first time we’ve split one and will need to sort out a flat work area first.

 

[Termite]

What are the telltale differences in the TO-35 and MF-35? Is it possible a previous owner put the sheet metal of the TO on a MF machine?

Here’s a couple other photos.

 

[pomester]

I think two stage. Half down on pedal for transmission, full down for pto. What prompted me to finally join here was the itch to buy the manuals, once not twice before investing in any parts for the wrong model.

Jensales currently has the operators, parts, and service manual kit for $55 as a pdf download (plus tax, etc.). Paper copy set is ~$179. This would be the first time we’ve split one and will need to sort out a flat work area first.

Check out here: https://www.peacefulcreek.com

Personally, I like paper for use in the shop, but I see computers on mechanics workbenches now.

Do you have a clutch shop within a reasonable distance?

 

[pomester]

What are the telltale differences in the TO-35 and MF-35? Is it possible a previous owner put the sheet metal of the TO on a MF machine?

Here’s a couple other photos.
View attachment 66916View attachment 66917View attachment 66918

Actually, I'm not sure whether sheet metal could be switched. What I see here is consistent with a 1955 TO-35. Green paint, gray sheet metal. Alleged serial number.
MF-35 would be 1960 or newer with a serial number in the 207000+ range. http://fergusontractors.org/nfs/wp-...icles/Evolution-of-the-TO-35-to-the-MF-35.pdf

 

[Termite]

Check out here: https://www.peacefulcreek.com

Personally, I like paper for use in the shop, but I see computers on mechanics workbenches now.

Do you have a clutch shop within a reasonable distance?

View attachment 66919

View attachment 66920

View attachment 66923

I very much prefer paper in hand. Generally print out the pages I need when I’m working from digital copies (has been vehicles to this point).

That site has a much friendlier price tag for the manuals. Never heard of them before. Farmers I know steered me to jensales and steiner for parts previously.

As for a clutch shop, none that I am aware of currently. There is a big rig shop in town that may be able to machine the flywheel. Also have a neighbor with a lathe and Bridgeport I could contract if necessary.

I know continued use with clutch slipping will burn it up and likely the flywheel as well, any chance washing the clutch plate and flywheel with brake cleaner would limp it by for a spell without catastrophic damage. I’m talking moving it around the property with 500-600 pounds on a trailer for spring projects not plowing ground or skidding trees.

 

[John Deere D]

What are the telltale differences in the TO-35 and MF-35? Is it possible a previous owner put the sheet metal of the TO on a MF machine?

Here’s a couple other photos.
View attachment 66916View attachment 66917View attachment 66918

Pics of my MF 35 Transmission..

 

[pomester]

I very much prefer paper in hand. Generally print out the pages I need when I’m working from digital copies (has been vehicles to this point).

That site has a much friendlier price tag for the manuals. Never heard of them before. Farmers I know steered me to jensales and steiner for parts previously.

As for a clutch shop, none that I am aware of currently. There is a big rig shop in town that may be able to machine the flywheel. Also have a neighbor with a lathe and Bridgeport I could contract if necessary.

I know continued use with clutch slipping will burn it up and likely the flywheel as well, any chance washing the clutch plate and flywheel with brake cleaner would limp it by for a spell without catastrophic damage. I’m talking moving it around the property with 500-600 pounds on a trailer for spring projects not plowing ground or skidding trees.

The two stage clutch is not very farmer friendly as far as rebuilding goes, particularly the PTO clutch. A clutch shop has the tools and testing. After 70 years of use springs lose tension. Splitting the tractor is a fair amount of work, you don't want to do it more than once. Perhaps the big rig shop can steer you to a clutch shop.

Clutch, transmission seals, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, rear engine seal (maybe). There's a bearing associated with the input shaft and the lower shaft (which must be accessed) which you should evaluate critically, neither are particularly expensive. You'll need an assortment of snap ring pliers of specific sorts.

I don't see where you could do any harm hosing the clutch down with brake cleaner and it's unlikely you'd do damage to anything dragging a trailer around.

Our host here, Steiner, Jensales - all valid sources for parts. Ebay sometimes has NOS bearings, if you consider that important.

 

[Jim.ME]

I very much prefer paper in hand. Generally print out the pages I need when I’m working from digital copies (has been vehicles to this point).

That site has a much friendlier price tag for the manuals. Never heard of them before. Farmers I know steered me to jensales and steiner for parts previously.

As for a clutch shop, none that I am aware of currently. There is a big rig shop in town that may be able to machine the flywheel. Also have a neighbor with a lathe and Bridgeport I could contract if necessary.

I know continued use with clutch slipping will burn it up and likely the flywheel as well, any chance washing the clutch plate and flywheel with brake cleaner would limp it by for a spell without catastrophic damage. I’m talking moving it around the property with 500-600 pounds on a trailer for spring projects not plowing ground or skidding trees.

You are new so here is a bit of info. Sales of manuals and parts, by the sponsors of this free to use site are Yesterday's Tractor/Parts ASAP and should be considered for such. They have gone to a $14.99 flat rate shipping charge for up to $249 and free from $250 up from what I understand. Posting info about and especially posting links to info about competitors is frowned on and can get such links or even posts blocked. Just saying use discretion when posting such.

Enjoy your tractor.

 

[Termite]

The two stage clutch is not very farmer friendly as far as rebuilding goes, particularly the PTO clutch. A clutch shop has the tools and testing. After 70 years of use springs lose tension. Splitting the tractor is a fair amount of work, you don't want to do it more than once. Perhaps the big rig shop can steer you to a clutch shop.

Clutch, transmission seals, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, rear engine seal (maybe). There's a bearing associated with the input shaft and the lower shaft (which must be accessed) which you should evaluate critically, neither are particularly expensive. You'll need an assortment of snap ring pliers of specific sorts.

I don't see where you could do any harm hosing the clutch down with brake cleaner and it's unlikely you'd do damage to anything dragging a trailer around.

Our host here, Steiner, Jensales - all valid sources for parts. Ebay sometimes has NOS bearings, if you consider that important

I’m going to do some hunting around for a clutch shop and maybe even an independent repair service. I know several folks that could do it if they weren’t retired, and I was still living in their area.

I’m not overly concerned with brand as long as the quality is there.

@Jim.ME , noted on naming competitors, etc. I’ve dealt with them in the past for manuals for my Allies Chalmers D-17 and it didn’t even cross my mind that our host may frown upon it.

 

[Dwoklahoma]

Check out "Bundy Bears Shed" on youtube. Excellent step by step videos from a 40 year tractor mechanic. There is a step by step series on the 135, TEA20, and TO35 Gold. Not exactly your tractor but, very clear on how to get the transmission shaft out, disassembled, and resealed. Will be close enough to help you see the process.

I was a newbie to tractors and did my MF35 special with a service manual and his videos and was successful.

First thing you will find out is depending on what serial number you have the input shaft has two procedures to get it out. There is a transfer gear for the PTO that has to slip down so the shaft can be removed. Manual will show this. The issue is some require the PTO shaft to slide out the front and some require the shaft to go out the back so the gear can then drop depending on the model year. Newer models went out the front (mine is a 63). Older models go out the back. Manuals were not clear and there are lots of opinions on which is "correct". Mine had to go out the back which required two splits, the engine from bell housing and bellhousing from transmission. Older units the shaft can come forward enough for the gear to drop.

Keep it level and go slow when you split it. Only split enough to get in and work and keep it lined up as much as possible. Bundy Bear has several videos on tricks to put them back together.

Test the clutch completely once you attach the gear box and or bellhousing before you put the tractor back together. (There is a pretty good amount of breakdown initially). I opted to take a lot of mine apart, shroud, radiator, fuel tank, steering box etc which was a lot of extra work initially, made reconnecting things after the repairs much simpler as it weighed less and I could actually see into things.

Good luck.

 

[Dwoklahoma]

Correction. Newer models the shaft goes out the back. Older models the shaft goes out the front. Mine (63) had to go out the back. Sorry for the confusion. The important thing is that it could be either based on the model year and info out on the net is not clear.

 

[Termite]

Check out "Bundy Bears Shed" on youtube. Excellent step by step videos from a 40 year tractor mechanic. There is a step by step series on the 135, TEA20, and TO35 Gold. Not exactly your tractor but, very clear on how to get the transmission shaft out, disassembled, and resealed. Will be close enough to help you see the process.

I was a newbie to tractors and did my MF35 special with a service manual and his videos and was successful.

First thing you will find out is depending on what serial number you have the input shaft has two procedures to get it out. There is a transfer gear for the PTO that has to slip down so the shaft can be removed. Manual will show this. The issue is some require the PTO shaft to slide out the front and some require the shaft to go out the back so the gear can then drop depending on the model year. Newer models went out the front (mine is a 63). Older models go out the back. Manuals were not clear and there are lots of opinions on which is "correct". Mine had to go out the back which required two splits, the engine from bell housing and bellhousing from transmission. Older units the shaft can come forward enough for the gear to drop.

Keep it level and go slow when you split it. Only split enough to get in and work and keep it lined up as much as possible. Bundy Bear has several videos on tricks to put them back together.

Test the clutch completely once you attach the gear box and or bellhousing before you put the tractor back together. (There is a pretty good amount of breakdown initially). I opted to take a lot of mine apart, shroud, radiator, fuel tank, steering box etc which was a lot of extra work initially, made reconnecting things after the repairs much simpler as it weighed less and I could actually see into things.

Good luck.

I’ll be ordering the manuals as soon as I get the cash on hand again.

Thanks for the pointer on the YouTube videos. Will likely be watching some videos this week when I have some downtime at work. Not sure when we’ll tackle splitting it, probably late summer at earliest if not next year.

 

[John Deere D]

Correction. Newer models the shaft goes out the back. Older models the shaft goes out the front. Mine (63) had to go out the back. Sorry for the confusion. The important thing is that it could be either based on the model year and info out on the net is not clear.

My 1963 MF 35...six speed...NO multipowewr...
Newer models of the six speed NO multipower, the shaft goes out the back. Older models the shaft goes out the front
This procedure had to be done, so as to remove the Input drive shaft to the Transmission

.

 

[Termite]

My 1963 MF 35...six speed...NO multipowewr...
Newer models of the six speed NO multipower, the shaft goes out the back. Older models the shaft goes out the front
This procedure had to be done, so as to remove the Input drive shaft to the TransmissionView attachment 67174.

Thanks. Pretty sure ours would be front loaded if it it a TO35, correct?

I’m kicking around the prospect of fully resealing the rear half when the time comes to split it. It’s got several leaks that it would benefit from having fixed.