IH 674 gas - convert to electronic ignition? Worth it?

Howitzer

New User
My brother has an IH 674 gas chore tractor with a C-200 engine, 12 volt system. We are considering converting it to electronic ignition.

Questions I have about the conversion:

1. Is it worth the time, effort and expense?
2. What components will need to be replaced? Coil? distributor cap? spark plug wires?
3. Where's the best place to buy the needed components? I see the electronic ignition unit is somewhat pricey. Amazon?
4. I'm not sure what present distributor is installed on the tractor, how do we ensure we order the correct electronic ignition unit?
5. Any other advice on this venture? From the YouTube videos I've watched, it looks pretty easy to do.

Any advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated!
 
My brother has an IH 674 gas chore tractor with a C-200 engine, 12 volt system. We are considering converting it to electronic ignition.

Questions I have about the conversion:

1. Is it worth the time, effort and expense?
2. What components will need to be replaced? Coil? distributor cap? spark plug wires?
3. Where's the best place to buy the needed components? I see the electronic ignition unit is somewhat pricey. Amazon?
4. I'm not sure what present distributor is installed on the tractor, how do we ensure we order the correct electronic ignition unit?
5. Any other advice on this venture? From the YouTube videos I've watched, it looks pretty easy to do.

Any advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated!
I'd never do it. I can buy a lot of sets of points for what the electronic ignition cost plus in most cases points last for years
 
I'd never do it. I can buy a lot of sets of points for what the electronic ignition cost plus in most cases points last for years
Old,

Thanks for the response! I do see that the electronic ignition kits are quite pricey... is the price worth it is the question.
 
My brother has an IH 674 gas chore tractor with a C-200 engine, 12 volt system. We are considering converting it to electronic ignition.

Questions I have about the conversion:

1. Is it worth the time, effort and expense?
2. What components will need to be replaced? Coil? distributor cap? spark plug wires?
3. Where's the best place to buy the needed components? I see the electronic ignition unit is somewhat pricey. Amazon?
4. I'm not sure what present distributor is installed on the tractor, how do we ensure we order the correct electronic ignition unit?
5. Any other advice on this venture? From the YouTube videos I've watched, it looks pretty easy to do.

Any advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated!
Are you having some issue, such as having to replace the breaker points frequently?

Many/most EI conversion kits for older tractors, no matter where you buy them are made by pertronix, and the price varies WIDELY by seller.

These commonly-sold common EI kits are not at all like the VERY high-powered modern automotive electronic ignitions, but, rather produce a spark more like the "good" set of breaker points your tractor left the factory with. The distributor cap and rotor that still carry forward after the EI install are not designed to withstand the spark a super "hot" ignition could supply and "carbon tracking" of the cap and or rotor COULD happen.

For a simple tractor, used as it was designed, you are unlikely to see any benefit from spending $$$ on a "hot" coil.

In general, the EI systems are more tolerant of some distributor shaft "play" and don't produce as much "spark scatter".

They are reasonably reliable but DO occasionally (but rarely) fail without any warning. IF and when that happens you will have a "dead" tractor until a new module can be ordered and shipped unless you keep the old breaker points and mounting plate "just in case".

I have a "544", which with a C-200 that uses a Delco distributor, but there may be other possibilities. My tractor's distributor has some wear and I've CONSIDERED putting in E.I., but haven't been able to convince myself to do it, as the points system has been working with no issues.

IF you decide to go ahead and install an EI kit you MAY need to trim out the dust cover that fits on the distributor, under the rotor, to make room for the "magnetic trigger wheel".

One thing that that Pertronix demands is that you install "suppression" spark plug wired instead of the stranded solid core sparkplug wires it may be equipped with now, as the module is susceptible to electrical damage, if you don't, even though many guys on here have claimed they didn't change the wires and have "gotten away with it".

Good Luck, however you decide to proceed!
 
Last edited:
Old,

Thanks for the response! I do see that the electronic ignition kits are quite pricey... is the price worth it is the question.

Are you having trouble with points & condenser and having to replace them often? Starting problems repeatedly traced to points & condenser? Are you using quality points & condensers, like Standard Motor Products?

The distributor shaft and bushings need to be in reasonably good shape for best performance of both. It can affect points more than the electronic ignition. In either case, if the there is much side-to-side play when you try to force the shaft sideways, it should be fixed for best performance.

Electronic ignitions work fine and can last for years, so can points & condenser. They can also fail requiring you to get (often order from away) another module. Points and condensers can usually be had locally, if they fail, and more than one person has decided to reinstall the points and condenser when their electronic ignition failed. I also believe the statement, " if it can't be made to run right with points, it won't run right just by changing to electronic ignition".

I don't see a savings if one is not having problems with their points & condenser. If you are having problems with points & condenser, you need to be sure the distributor is up to snuff before you install an electronic ignition. I have thought about changing mine to electronic ignition, but a set of points usually goes several years, so I haven't seen where I would gain. I think it is more a case of personal choice; do you want to have electronic ignition, rather than points & condenser, than it is electronic ignition is a cost savings.
 
Old,

Thanks for the response! I do see that the electronic ignition kits are quite pricey... is the price worth it is the question.
I've never found that if was worth the price plus so far every one I have installed it was replaced with in the year and the points put back in
 
If your distributor shaft and bushing are in good shape ,, keep your points and condenser?? You do not need an electronic ignition.. Original ignition will do a good job. You will save a lot of money..
 
Years ago I thought the same thing and wanted to keep the tractor original. But every time I went to the farm (I live 2 hours way) the tractor would not start (no spark) until I cleaned the points. I always made sure to have some type of bill with me. I finally had it with the points!!!!!! So 21 years ago i put in a Pertronix ignition. I have NEVER regretted it. It starts every time within 2 revolutions and runs GREAT. The tractor sat from the end of October to the last week of February. I opened up the shed, put the key in the switch, opened the throttle the usual 1/3 way and turned the key. It popped as soon engine went over 1/2 revolutions and ran at a full revolution of the engine. I would NEVER go back to the points again. Last summer I helped a friend with his 300 that would not run. After spending about a half hour doing stuff to get it to produce a spark and checking everything possible, I finally decided it had to be the condenser. So a 26 mile one way trip to closest parts house (an IH dealer) back to the tractor with new condenser. New condenser made it purr like a kitten!! Why do you think all the small engine manufacturers went to electronic ignitions. Any way that is my story and I am sticking to it. I would never put up with a set of points again no matter how much it would make the tractor more original. The cost of the system offsets all the headaches you have with condesers failing, points corroding and needing cleaning, wear blocks weaing down etc, etc.
 
Thanks for the discussion everyone. If we went with EI would we need a new coil, spark plug wires, distributor cap, etc?
 
If your distributor shaft and bushing are in good shape ,, keep your points and condenser?? You do not need an electronic ignition.. Original ignition will do a good job. You will save a lot of money..
That is one thing I'm wondering about... the condition of our distributor shaft and bushing. We'll have to inspect them. Any tips?
 
Thanks for the discussion everyone. If we went with EI would we need a new coil, spark plug wires, distributor cap, etc?
The need to replace the distributor cap and rotor, would depend on the condition of the ones you have currently. (if you spend the money for EI, why wouldn't you just install a new cap and rotor with it?)

If you do not currently have suppression (carbon core) plug wires, you will need to replace your wires with the proper type for use with the EI.

Replacing the coil, again is mostly dependent on your current coil. If you have a true "no external resistor required" 12-volt coil it should be fine. If you have coil using an external resisistor you will need to change to a true 12-volt coil and remove the external resistor (ballast or resistor wire).

The Pertronix website has info and FAQ sections you should study, the answers to many things you are asking are there, direct from the manufacturer of EI units.
 
Just put one on a case 300. Came from Steiner tractor parts. Coil came with the kit. Also replaced the plugs,wires, cap, rotor,resistor.
 
All I had to to do on my 300 was take out the breaker plate, install the Hall effect sensor, replace the rotor with the trigger and rewire the coil to distributor as per the instructions. Everything else is the same as it originally was. The cap and everything else stays the same. Only concern is it said to NEVER leave the key on without the tractor running. Otherwise the Hall effect sensor will go up in smoke. By the ay I did all the above right on the tractor.
 
I was told by the Pertonix rep to not use carbon or suppression plug wires. He said to use the solid core plug wires.
 
…“I was told by the Pertonix rep to not use carbon or suppression plug wires. He said to use the solid core plug wires.” Respectfully, I think maybe you misunderstood this. This goes against everything I have ever heard. Maybe the newer systems are more robust in terms of tolerating electrical interference. EI is what I understood as possibly causing premature failure of the module.
 
…“I was told by the Pertonix rep to not use carbon or suppression plug wires. He said to use the solid core plug wires.” Respectfully, I think maybe you misunderstood this. This goes against everything I have ever heard. Maybe the newer systems are more robust in terms of tolerating electrical interference. EI is what I understood as possibly causing premature failure of the module.
You have lots of opinions from the usual pro and con here. I have converted 2 tractors and a jeep to EI and would never go back. Good condensors seem to be hard to find these days, and new and points and condensor setup is no longer cheap. Once the EI is set up it takes no maintenance. I am going on about 15 years on tractors and have not touched EI since they were installed. Probably 10 years on jeep same thing. If one were to fail I have points and condensor set aside for an emergency but I would go back to EI. I use a slightly wider gap on plugs with it. I wouldn't say it is hotter than points, just less messing with them. One tractor burned points before I installed the EI. Maybe distributor needs work bu I have had no trouble once EI installed. I have solid core wires on both tractors but I have older units maybe new ones need the soft core. I bought one of the Pertronix coils on one tractor as coil on it was old. Both of my tractors are working tractors not parade queens.
 
Old,

Thanks for the response! I do see that the electronic ignition kits are quite pricey... is the price worth it is the question.
Simple answer is NO. I have tractors that have the same points in them for 10 plus years and they start and run well every year and if in the spring it doesn't start i check the points and clean if they look bad and run them yet again
 
The only thing that destroys the model is leaving the switch on without the tractor running. Petronix tech said that will kill the module really fast. Suppression wires are just a big resister to reduce the magnetic field around the wire so it does not interfere with radios and communication signals.
 

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