JD 2510 diesel engine

Dana Norby

New User
Have a 2510 diesel with less than 200 hours on overhaul (before I purchased) that now lost antifreeze into oil past the orings. There is erosion in block where orings seat, so need to make some choices. Don’t know if block can be repaired at what cost, find replacement engine, or??
Original is 202 CI, 2520 has 219, or is there another model that will drop in? Salvage yards that I have checked with so far have no blocks or engines in stock. Tractor had been restored so I would like to fix but maybe best to knock it in the head money wise? Thanks.
 
A machine shop should be able to machine the o-ring area out and press in a ring that replaces the rusted out o-ring area.
 
I had the impression that JD stocked an updated sleeve ?

You need to find the fink that painted the tractor and then told you that it was restored .
 
Have a 2510 diesel with less than 200 hours on overhaul (before I purchased) that now lost antifreeze into oil past the orings. There is erosion in block where orings seat, so need to make some choices. Don’t know if block can be repaired at what cost, find replacement engine, or??
Original is 202 CI, 2520 has 219, or is there another model that will drop in? Salvage yards that I have checked with so far have no blocks or engines in stock. Tractor had been restored so I would like to fix but maybe best to knock it in the head money wise? Thanks.
A natural aspirated 276 will bolt in and make 75+ HP . Few people can tell the different appearance .

Seen a 2510 with a 276 turbo last summer in Tennessee . The hydraulic valves had been moved forward to clear the turbo .
 
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Have a 2510 diesel with less than 200 hours on overhaul (before I purchased) that now lost antifreeze into oil past the orings. There is erosion in block where orings seat, so need to make some choices. Don’t know if block can be repaired at what cost, find replacement engine, or??
Original is 202 CI, 2520 has 219, or is there another model that will drop in? Salvage yards that I have checked with so far have no blocks or engines in stock. Tractor had been restored so I would like to fix but maybe best to knock it in the head money wise? Thanks.
If it’s a diesel it’s worth it you have quite a few choices actually that would fit 4-202 4-219 4-276 all will fit the last being a bit tall I think when I was ordering sleeves for the one I had it was a bear to find the right ones they were all the right diameter just the rest of them were too tall. I ended up rebuilding the one we had. How much pitting are we talking? Like broken liner flange or just a little that needs smoothed out. We had these mixing cups for epoxy we would clean the area and then fill and grind down. My 4202 the whole darn liner was split from freezing out in the salesman’s grove. I think yours took 200 hours to be noticeable it’s possible there’s an o ring order that can get messed up do you have a broken known offending o-ring?
 
I had the impression that JD stocked an updated sleeve ?

You need to find the fink that painted the tractor and then told you that it was restored .
Not blaming anyone, was a farmer OH and then restored. Weighing salvaging block and making use of new sleeves and pistons vs. finding replacement drop in and potentially buying the same or different problem.
 
If it’s a diesel it’s worth it you have quite a few choices actually that would fit 4-202 4-219 4-276 all will fit the last being a bit tall I think when I was ordering sleeves for the one I had it was a bear to find the right ones they were all the right diameter just the rest of them were too tall. I ended up rebuilding the one we had. How much pitting are we talking? Like broken liner flange or just a little that needs smoothed out. We had these mixing cups for epoxy we would clean the area and then fill and grind down. My 4202 the whole darn liner was split from freezing out in the salesman’s grove. I think yours took 200 hours to be noticeable it’s possible there’s an o ring order that can get messed up do you have a broken known offending o-ring?
Light pitting around all holes with two of them having an eroded chip out of edge against water maybe 1/4” wide and 1/8” back away from flange. Could try to get pics later.
 
Have a 2510 diesel with less than 200 hours on overhaul (before I purchased) that now lost antifreeze into oil past the orings. There is erosion in block where orings seat, so need to make some choices. Don’t know if block can be repaired at what cost, find replacement engine, or??
Original is 202 CI, 2520 has 219, or is there another model that will drop in? Salvage yards that I have checked with so far have no blocks or engines in stock. Tractor had been restored so I would like to fix but maybe best to knock it in the head money wise? Thanks.
There are so many of those engines, used in so many machines, that it would be a shame to junk the tractor. I thought the only issue with the 2510 was not enough power for the size of the tractor. I have a 2520 with the pump opened up 10%, so I think it's as good as a 3020. I've had to put sleeves in it a couple of times. The newer version of the 219, the 239 wasn't mentioned.
 
1/8 inch should be fine as long as it’s truly that small. It doesn’t cost much to try filling it and see what happens o ring kit, head gasket, epoxy and some sanding paper. I have a long handled die grinder with flapper wheel for this specifically when I was doing c15s and 3406s but hand sanding down would be fine. If you are ok with some labor that’s what I’d do gives it a second chance to see if your head gasket was the real culprit. Do all of the pitting on all of the flanges with the epoxy of course that gives a new surface for the pitting to occur. Use plenty of liner soap on the rings when installing!! Works great
 
Have a 2510 diesel with less than 200 hours on overhaul (before I purchased) that now lost antifreeze into oil past the orings. There is erosion in block where orings seat, so need to make some choices. Don’t know if block can be repaired at what cost, find replacement engine, or??
Original is 202 CI, 2520 has 219, or is there another model that will drop in? Salvage yards that I have checked with so far have no blocks or engines in stock. Tractor had been restored so I would like to fix but maybe best to knock it in the head money wise? Thanks.
An engine out of the 2550, 2555 will easily bolt in and be a power upgrade. Better yet an engine from a 2750 or 2755 would work well the 2550 is the 239 and 2555 is the metric displacement of the same engine (4039) the 2750 and 2755 are turbo charged versions of the 2550 and 2555. I love my 2750, it's power, it's cold weather starting and has great fuel economy.. It's currently putting out just over 100hp on the PTO. That would make a lively 2510.
 
What kind of sleeve and block do you have?
The 202 has less O ring grooves. There is a sleeve with O ring grooves that can fit those tractors.

First, you have to remove oil pan and check if leakage is from head or O rings. Some aftermarket companies are selling gasket kits for the 202 with same head gasket than the 239. It never worked for me.

I suggest to use loctite 5923 on the sleeve o rings, and on cylinder head block side. Should really help. Never had a problem doing it,but I always does it,so I cannot compare.
 
I bought a 2520 at auction recently overhauled that had oil and water showing up out the vent tube. Took it to the Deere dealer and the block was pitted from cavitation so bad that the liners wouldn't seat. Employees of the former owner (likely without his knowledge) knew it was bad and filled it with stop leak. Dealer said they could send the block out for repairs but it it didn't work they would charge me to take it apart again. Suggested a new short block which, on the end, wasn't a lot of difference.

Might have the same problem on a used engine if the antifreeze hadn't been kept up.
 

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