John Deere GP

[Watthour]

I resurrected 29 Deere and two Case tractors that I know had not been run since 2002. The photos show some of the worst of them. If the tractor is going to be put to field work straight water might be better for cooling, but it isn't going to help for corrosion protection and certainly won't protect from freezing.

As an aside, one of those "saved" was a '36 B that I had nickel welded the block back in the '90s due to a frost crack in the outer casting - It hadn't damaged the bore. It was welded, needle-scaled hot, then shot peined to relieve stress and hide the repair. It was at that point that everything got anti-freeze as a precaution.

Those with a good concentration of coolant were still pretty clean, and only got a cold water flush to chase out the solids. Others had to be picked out, as above. That's 25 years of coolant mix with nothing but good results, at least in terms of longevity.

As for the non-tractor items (Case), the '36 RC had a radiator problem that I couldn't resolve easily. That needed to be re-tubed, and GOOD radiator shops are about as rare as hen's teeth any more. Somebody had to do it.

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/RadiatorTubeFitment.jpg

Of course, after swaging in about 100 feet of copper tube and burying it all in a couple pounds of acid-core solder, it got coolant mix right after testing with water.

 

[Rob_F]

Been soaking the crank to get all the build up out and found a governor weight

 

[Rob_F]

Got the carb finally tore down and ready to be cleaned and rebuilt. Snapped off the seat flush in the bowl and had a float bearing stripped and stuck. EZ out and heat wouldn’t budge them. Ended up drilling them both out just shy of the threads and then ran a tap through.

 

[Rob_F]

should I worry about the wear on the crank gear?? Also it seems the cam shaft gear isn’t riding centered on the crank gear either. It’s like there is a spring pushing the cam towards the flywheel side of the tractor. I can push it back towards the clutch side which centers it but it doesn’t stay, just slides back.

 

[Loosehandle]

That doesn't look too good, Id be suspicious of the camshaft bearings also.

 

[ET]

I think you can move the camshaft gear on the cam. Does it have pinch bolts in it to hold it to the cam? You can make up for some tooth wear by moving the gear slightly.

 

[Mark-Ia]

you need a new gear call Jack Beck at- four 0 two 61six26one9. He's very knowledgeable on the GP. He's located in NE.

 

[Rob_F]

Ok thanks for the info!! I’m also in need of the front fan shaft bearing. Are those something I could find at a parts store? Or are they a special type. I haven’t tore into the fan yet.

 

[Rob_F]

you need a new gear call Jack Beck at- four 0 two 61six26one9. He's very knowledgeable on the GP. He's located in NE.

I assume they are pressed on and not part of the actual crank?

 

[Mark-Ia]

The gear is pressed on, that front fan bearing has a bearing race that is very hard to find. Call Jack and visit with him. He knows more about GP's than Mother Deere does.

 

[Rob_F]

Will do thanks!

 

[Rob_F]

Do they sell the felt seals for the front fan mount along with the washer/bushing that holds them in??

 

[Mark-Ia]

Do they sell the felt seals for the front fan mount along with the washer/bushing that holds them in??

Again, Call Jack he will know where to get them. I think on mine, I had mine machined to put a lip seal in them. 2-CR8761,1-CR11524 or CR11625metric for both ends of the fanshaft

 

[Rob_F]

Thanks for everyone’s help. Got it running last night and sounds great! Just have to fine tune the carb a little today and finish putting a few things back together.

 

[Mark-Ia]

Love the GP's. My 29

 

[Rob_F]

Well I might need a little more advice. Got her running but barely moves. Won’t even move in high gear. Engine runs great no grinding in transmission. I pulled the clutch off along with forks and nothing glaring wrong. I'm pretty sure it’s the clutch disks are glazed. With the tractor shut off I engage the clutch and I can still spin the belt pulley. That shouldn’t be slipping right and should be locked??

 

[J.Wondergem]

I don't have one, but sounds like you have clutch problems.

 

[Cash4Toys]

Well I might need a little more advice. Got her running but barely moves. Won’t even move in high gear. Engine runs great no grinding in transmission. I pulled the clutch off along with forks and nothing glaring wrong. I'm pretty sure it’s the clutch disks are glazed. With the tractor shut off I engage the clutch and I can still spin the belt pulley. That shouldn’t be slipping right and should be locked??

No authority on a GP, but if that clutch is adjusted so it "snaps" in, you should not be able to turn the pulley by hand. If in fact it is snapping in, then there maybe something in there bottoming out before the disc's are compressed tight. Is it possible the the clutch hubs are bottoming out while the disc's are not compressed tight?

 

[Mark-Ia]

A common problem with GP's is the locating pin that keeps the operating sleeve inline. The operating sleeve is what the brass clutch fork works off. The pin will get loose and then the hole in the sleeve will wear. The whole assembly will put pressure on the dog-bones and pivot assembly that the adjusting bolts work off, and not allow for a good adjustment or operation.

 

[Rob_F]

Ok I will take the clutch off again and check that pin