Need help with Farmall M 12V wiring

[rnccen]

Afternoon, I have a new Farmall M that was converted 12V 1 wire but the prior owner did not finish the wiring so it would be started. Would someone kindly fill in the wires, as I have searched google and forums without much luck. I have found ones with the regulator but not one with a solenoid and push button switch.

Thank you in advance.

 

[old]

Need more info like what brand/type of alternator do you have they are not all wired the same

 

[used red MN]

Here is a diagram that should give you what you need. I personally would connect the starter button for the solenoid so it is only powered when the ignition switch is on. Your one wire to the alternator will go to the terminal shown as battery. Disregard the wires shown in the diagram going to the 1 & 2 terminals on the alternator, that is for a 3 wire alternator. I am going to try to mark up the diagram in a photo to be correct for your application. The wire to the alternator from the ammeter and the one off the opposite side of the ammeter to the solenoid should be 10 gauge, all others can be 14 ga.
6 to 12 volt conversion diagram
I will edit the photo and add it later. If when done the ammeter shows discharge instead of charge the wires on the ammeter will need swapped side to side.
Old, all “ONE” wire alternators wire the same unless they are a positive ground unit.

 

[bc]

This is timely as I am just going through the wiring on my 2606. Couldn't get voltage reading on the other contacts on the key switch and the rusty push button showed as open when pushed so I ended up buying a new key switch that also had the starter built into it. Decided last night that the battery must have had some dead cells as it would always read 13 volts but when I would try to engage the starter it would drop to 7 volts and the starter wouldn't engage even if shorting across terminals. Took battery out of pickup to figure out it was a battery issue cause then it turned over.

Questions I have is on the ammeter in your diagram looking at it from the bottom or the top? Looking at it from the top the positive side would be to the right and negative on the left but from the bottom it would be reversed.

Also the new key switch has 4 terminals. Don't know if the fuse and light circuit goes on the ignition terminal or on the accessory terminal? I have it on the ignition terminal now but was going to put it on the accessory terminal and see if the lights work with the ignition on or not.

Thanks.

 

[used red MN]

bc, that diagram does not designate ammeter polarity. The polarity as shown viewing from the back or terminal side of the gauge would be positive (+) on the left and (-) on the right. If your meter has no markings as I wrote to the OP make the connections and swap all connections side to side if the meter reacts to charging backwards.
For your lights I would connect them as they were originally, powered all the time. I would connect them to draw directly off the ammeter on the same terminal the alternator connects to. You don’t want the higher amperage draw of the lights passing through the ignition switch contacts.

 

[bc]

bc, that diagram does not designate ammeter polarity. The polarity as shown viewing from the back or terminal side of the gauge would be positive (+) on the left and (-) on the right. If your meter has no markings as I wrote to the OP make the connections and swap all connections side to side if the meter reacts to charging backwards.
For your lights I would connect them as they were originally, powered all the time. I would connect them to draw directly off the ammeter on the same terminal the alternator connects to. You don’t want the higher amperage draw of the lights passing through the ignition switch contacts.

Thanks. Got it. I can't see the bottom since it is mounted in the dash but positive on the left looking at the bottom which has the terminals jives with flipping it over and looking at the dash from above where the positive would be on the right.

 

[used red MN]

In the end ONE wire on one side of the ammeter feeding it power. All other connections to the opposite terminal. I don’t know about “confusing” an ammeter? The ammeter can only read a current load or charge current input if it passes through it. We want to see this reading in relation to it going in or out of the battery. That is why only the one wire on the positive terminal of the ammeter connects to the battery or power feed point, which is often the solenoid terminal at the end of the positive battery cable.

 

[Janicholson]

Afternoon, I have a new Farmall M that was converted 12V 1 wire but the prior owner did not finish the wiring so it would be started. Would someone kindly fill in the wires, as I have searched google and forums without much luck. I have found ones with the regulator but not one with a solenoid and push button switch.

Thank you in advance.

View attachment 70600

This should help! It assumes grounds on all components. and that the solenoid is a Ford type. also that the "coil on the starter does not exist. Jim

 

[rnccen]

Thank you all for your assistance, I will tackle it tomorrow and advise of success. Appreciate the assistance.

The Alt. is a Delco

 

[rnccen]

Good morning, well either I am missing something or I messed something up, I used the above images as guides and still nothing, no click or start. Battery is good, push button start is good, solenoid is good, engine will crank if I just connect positive and starter to push button start.

Here is what I have, I feel like it is something very obvious but for the life of me I can't see it, would you mind taking a look and letting me know what/where I'm missing.

There are no lights on this one, which is why I omitted the light wire.

Again, thank you in advance,

 

[used red MN]

To be clear you are replacing the original high amp push button switch that energized the starter with a solenoid, is this correct? Here is what I instructed another poster to do.
Print off Jim’s diagram. Place numbers (1, 2…) by each circuit or length of wire between two connections. Then go to your tractor and go through each one making sure you have an equivalent circuit on your tractor checking off the numbers as you go through it. If all the circuits are there it should work. It help that guy get his working. Does this tractor have a magneto or a points and coil ignition?

 

[rnccen]

To be clear you are replacing the original high amp push button switch that energized the starter with a solenoid, is this correct? Here is what I instructed another poster to do.
Print off Jim’s diagram. Place numbers (1, 2…) by each circuit or length of wire between two connections. Then go to your tractor and go through each one making sure you have an equivalent circuit on your tractor checking off the numbers as you go through it. If all the circuits are there it should work. It help that guy get his working. Does this tractor have a magneto or a points and coil ignition?

There is a foot lever down at the base that has a 2 post push button switch that I presume is the starter button to activate the circuit, which I noted on my diagram as push button starter. Looking at the parts section here, it looks like what I call the kill switch in my diagram is actually the ignition switch.

The foot push button looks new and aftermarket, it has continuity when I tested it and pushed it, I presume that starting lever that activates it is original. Mounted directly behind it above under the tank is the 4 post solenoid ( I believe this was where the regulator use to be).

What I think I am missing is power to that push button foot starter since the battery connects to the solenoid and the starter to the solenoid, since if there is no power to the push button starter button, It won't send a signal to the solenoid....but I could be wrong.

It has points and a coil, I know the tractor will turn over if I just use that foot activated switch, when I hooked it all up, there was no click or power going to the starter.

Thank you.

 

[used red MN]

It would be best if you sent some pictures of what you have going there. A solenoid is usually used to completely bypass what you have called the “push button.”
Or do this first. On Jim’s diagram take the connections he shows on the solenoid and move them directly up to the terminals on the push button. The small wire between the solenoid and push button that loops out to the left is not needed. And set the solenoid aside, it should not be needed either. To clarify the wire he shows coming down from the key switch remains on the right terminal of the push button. The cables do not have to go left or right, up/down on the push button just however they fit in best and in the end the cable to the starter is on a terminal by itself. At work I don’t have time to redo the diagram for you.

 

[Jim Becker]

As drawn, the engine will not turn over unless the ignition switch is on. You aren't testing the cranking function with the switch off are you?

 

[used red MN]

As drawn, the engine will not turn over unless the ignition switch is on. You aren't testing the cranking function with the switch off are you?

Yes, Jim(Becker) is correct as shown by your revised diagram, ignition switch on to crank. Had not thought of that, but not sure why he questioned no power to the “push button”? Its hard for me to get past my brain just immediately knowing what should be what on a simple circuits like this. I can’t get into the realm of being “buffaloed” because this is not doing this, because of this and hands going into immediate action to right the problem.

 

[Janicholson]

Thinking was to prevent kids/or? from getting hurt. a jumper to use starter w/o ignition is OK with me. Jim

 

[rnccen]

As drawn, the engine will not turn over unless the ignition switch is on. You aren't testing the cranking function with the switch off are you?

OMG .. it never dawned on me to see if the switch was on...Ill have to go try.

 

[used red MN]

OMG .. it never dawned on me to see if the switch was on...Ill have to go try.

LOL!