New here - what tractor to get

[the tractor vet]

Well since i work on IH tractors i will tell you this as for a 300 with a loader that is the last tractor ya want . If it does have power steering and a loader that steering box is the weak point and there are NO parts to fix it with when you break the one tooth off inside the box . Even ones with out a loader have broken the tooth off if they happened to drop the ft, end in a ditch or dead furrow . Forget old tractors and step up to something way newer and parts are still easy to get as i don't care who made them they still break . Forget buying a gas powered as here again now days lots of problems due to the gas. Go find a newer Deere or I H from the late seventy's into the eighty's , maybe like a 2030 - 2430 or and I H 484- 684 or 5 series . Then you will have everything ya need or want , they were better built for loader work an chore work Even later Fords and Massey's . By what ever color dealer is close to you as you will become friends .
Also when going to look at a tractor since you really have no idea go find and and old guy that works on stuff and take him with you to check it out and PAY the man for his time and advice . This can save you ton's of money and grief .

 

[edgerider11]

Is this too weather checked?

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

The ford isn't a select-o-speed, is it?

What's your ability to work on an old tractor? Any old tractor you buy will need work, possibly major work. You won't know what until you get it home and try to use it. Can you split the tractor and install a clutch? Can you pull a rear wheel and install an axle bearing?

Finding someone to work on them anymore is getting tough. You'll pay as much as you paid for the tractor to have a dealer work on it, that is IF you can get the dealer to work on it. They don't want to waste their time on that old stuff and will quote you a ridiculous price hoping you'll go elsewhere. There are way too many who claim to be "mechanics" and will pull your tractor apart, realize they're in over their head, and disappear. Or, they will take months and months to get the job done. Finding that rare mechanic who is true to their word, gets the job done, does it right, and doesn't charge an arm and a leg, is hard.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Buy what you have local dealer support to buy parts or repair if you can't.

A Loader requires power steering and a wide front end.

If you plan to move 1200# bale of hay, not sure your choices will work. Check out the lifting capacity.

Tires are expensive.

My rule is to have a truck and trailer big enough to transport my tractors.

 

[ss55]

The height of your shed doors will determine if a row crop tractor will work for you, 9 foot or better is needed for most row crops to drive into a shed without the operator having to duck down.

Three point hitches and good power steering were not common before the late 1950s to mid 1960s except for Ford and Ferguson.

In today's market $4,000 for a tractor and loader might limit you to 1960s gas tractors, as diesel will add $1,000 or more. If you don't run them several hundreds of hours per year the fuel cost is not excessive and they do start well in cold temperatures. Is your acreage 5 acres or 500 acres?

Buying a tractor and loader together is almost always much cheaper than buying them separately. A row crop tractor will be cheaper and built much heavier than most utility tractors of the same horse power. If you are looking for cheap horse power Case Comfort King 730, 830, and 930 (a big cheap diesel) have real three point hitch and are about the cheapest to buy. Their ergonomics and features are not great, but they are simple and reliable especially if you need to DIY repairs. If the tractor will eventually be relegated to snow pusher duty they may be all you need. IMHO, stay away from Case-O-Matic.

Tire chains, snow bucket and a Heat Houser are great to have if not necessities.

Have fun.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Stay away from Ford SOS too.

 

[tom upton]

Not sure why no one is suggesting the Oliver? But I will! If the 770 has the power traction hitch or straight 3 point and power steering,runs well and hydralics are in good order I would think you would be quite happy with it compared to the rest of your stated options. I am a bit biased towards Oliver, but honestly if all tractors you stated were in similiar condition the 770 is leaps and bounds ahead of the others as far as operator friendly, power, traction, etc.

 

[wolfman]

We had a gas 851 ford with a loader for years ,1961. It was a great little handy workhorse and the non power steering was ok. With the loader bucket full you had to be moving to steer but you get used to that. I wouldn't worry about those tires.

 

[jm.]

This is an old tractor site and you ask the experts but any 50+ year old tractor is a gamble and risk, if you cannot do your own repairs look for something newer.

 

[History Buff (MN)]

Is it this tractor you are looking at?
It looks like an 821 with the PTO option but it doesn't have a 3-point lift.

 

[edgerider11]

Not the one but that one looks decent. Ill have to look for it as
an option as well.

 

[ss55]

The 770 Oliver would be a great choice with live hydraulics, live PTO, and a decent selection of gears, but three point hitch on them is not common, and it would be a bear to climb up on from the rear around a three point. Most three point hitch tractors are front mount.

 

[Leroy]

I think without checking but the 901 series was 48 MAX PTO HP and the 800 series, older, was 44 HP. The 65 up 4000 that replaced the 4 cylinder and the 801 tractors was rated at 52 Horse power. The 3 cylinder 4000 that was the 52 horse rated tractor I had 2 of them and did not like the power steering or the independant PTO. Also had the bigger version the 5000, same problems. If you go with the 800, 801 or 4 cylinder 4000 get the 5 speed transmision. I do know his 60 horse is way off and saying that I would question any thing else he is saying. Just use your eyes and ears when looking. But any of these 3, the 800,801 or4 cylinder 4000 should last you 20 plus years. Others recomended not even sold new in my area.

 

[caterpillar guy]

You asked for opinions and you will get them. Get as new a tractor as you can afford with good dealer support. More important than color or size. Though the 300 utility is a steering gear box problem with no or few parts available used. I would move on with that option. Loaders with wide or narrow front need to be respected all are a risk of upset if used foolishly. For Pto and loader work you want live power. Another words when you push the clutch out it keeps running. The old transmission driven models will work and you will be very tired of them in short order as you have to have the clutch engaged for PTO to run and if a N series ford the Pto has to be on to run the 3pt. I think it would be wise to study a lot more or find knowledgeable help to look with you. So much to learn in such a short time. Though of the 3 you mentioned I would pick the Oliver and I'm an IH guy for the most part. Most live hydraulics and PTO 's came in around the late 50's though the real refinements were in the 70's for most manufacturers.

 

[WNYBill]

Been here done this! What are you using the loader for? If it is just a tool carrier then you will be OK with 2WD, if you are going to dig with it or carry something heavy you will need a 4WD or the tractor will be helpless backing up. Been down this road and you better raise you budget to about $10K or you will just be getting junk and then investing big bucks and still have junk. I agree with a Massy and a tractor repair place. There are a few repair guys with a lift trucks that make house calls. But be prepared, you are looking a $$$ per hour and a service call. When you buy make sure you get a Owners manual and a shop manual for your new tractor. Power steering and live power are a MUST.

I've had a Massy 50, Allis 5040, IH 574, Ford 4000, Allis 6060 and now a Kubota 7030 and a Long FarmTrac 50HP.

 

[Leroy]

The Oliver is a row crop tractor with probably a narrow front end and for his experiance and use he does not need that type of tractor, Field work with experiance OK. And in my part of country anything after the 77 was not sold here.

 

[Leroy]

Case was not an option in my part of the country as no dealership to even co for parts or ever service support. And when I was growing up if Case was mentioned it was always in conjunction with Basket Case. Several years ago renter bought a case 300 and I was trying to help her and asked at the IHC dealer after Case became part of IHC and parts man that was raised on farm asked me is it a garden tractor? That is hoe much Case was known around here. Once in a great while you will see one setting abanded but never a working tractor.

 

[Leroy]

The 901 should have been 801 but the 901 is just the row crop version of the 801. DO NOT GET A ROW CROP VERSION. As for no power steering for what you are talking don't need it. If you were trying to load manure hours on end it would be nice but for your use not nessary. And to add you would have to find a tractor in a parts yard with it on. And being a 2 wheel drive and loader just need fluid in rear tires and rear wheel weights. More parts avaible for the Fords than any other makes. Massey 65 would be good compairson to the fords but very few dealers, don't know if one still exists in my area. And good independant repair shops still do exist.

 

[NDIHC]

What part of the country are you in? Where you are may determine what is available and at what price.

 

[edgerider11]

I'm in MN.