parts help for 730 case-o-matic

[GDJR]

Hello, I've been trying to find replacement oil cooler hoses for a 730 case-o-matic. Its the hose that conect to the radiator. Any ideas where i can source them?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

If you take the hoses to a hydraulic shop they can make you up new hoses.

 

[wore out]

Hello, I've been trying to find replacement oil cooler hoses for a 730 case-o-matic. Its the hose that conect to the radiator. Any ideas where i can source them?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

They appear to be a common 1/2" hydraulic hose with male pipe thread at one end and a female JIC fitting at the other. Any local hydraulic supplier or even a NAPA store that makes up hydraulic hoses should be able to duplicate them.

 

[Tgrasher]

Call John Saeli 315-585-9826 for his knowledge and better price.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

@wore out is correct, I have made them for the 800's and 830's before, they are the case-o-matic oil cooler lines FYI

 

[GDJR]

They appear to be a common 1/2" hydraulic hose with male pipe thread at one end and a female JIC fitting at the other. Any local hydraulic supplier or even a NAPA store that makes up hydraulic hoses should be able to duplicate them.

Great! Thankyou for the help.

 

[GDJR]

I am actually just getting ready to purchase this 730. Can anybody help explain to me exactly what the case-o-matic is or what function it has? I own another Case tractor a 1030 and it does not have this option.

 

[GDJR]

Update, this tractor also has draft automatic. Same question what is it and what is its function. Again any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RJKeith]

I am actually just getting ready to purchase this 730. Can anybody help explain to me exactly what the case-o-matic is or what function it has? I own another Case tractor a 1030 and it does not have this option.

Instead of a dry clutch like most tractors in the 50s and earlier had, Case came out with the Case-o-matic, which replaced the dry clutch with a torque converter. There is a leaver, usually on the steering column, that locks the torque converter and automatically disengages when the 'clutch' pedal is depressed.

 

[RJKeith]

Update, this tractor also has draft automatic. Same question what is it and what is its function. Again any information would be greatly appreciated.

Draft-o-matic was designed to automatically control the 3 point hitch so a plow stays at a constant depth. Nice for plowing, but a nuisance for other task because a bump will lower or raise your implement.

 

[GDJR]

Instead of a dry clutch like most tractors in the 50s and earlier had, Case came out with the Case-o-matic, which replaced the dry clutch with a torque converter. There is a leaver, usually on the steering column, that locks the torque converter and automatically disengages when the 'clutch' pedal is depressed.

Thank you for the information.

 

[jon f mn]

The draft o matic is just a standard 3pt hitch system as found on all tractors after the switched over to the standard system. The draft sensing part is for plowing so when the tractor starts pulling hard and the tires squat and such the hitch will lift on the plow a bit to compensate and also add traction when needed. On the floor on the right of the seat is a lever with 4 holes in the floor. There should be a couple buttons on the floor with a P on the right and an S on the left. The P slot is the position setting and is used for everything except the plow. In that setting the hitch just stays where set. The other slots are the draft settings from light to heavy draft to set for soil conditions for plowing.

The com is the toughest drive system ever made, most have never been touched. It's a torque converter just like a car, only tough and with manual shift and lock up. The hardest part for most to get used to is driving it like a car, so you always let the clutch out at idle and give it gas to move. On most of the higher gears you will let the clutch out and it won't move at all til gas is applied. Yours, being a later model, does have a feathering valve, so you can if you choose let the clutch out at higher rpms. That does work, but I never use it. Once you get moving, there is a lever to the left of the high/low lever to the left of the steering column. Once moving you can lock it into direct by lifting that lever. Then it will pull like a regular dry clutch. When you get to a tough spot and run out of power, just drop it down to com and power through. In com you can never run out of power because it will just keep slowing as rpms drop til either the tires slip or you get through. They are one of the best for loader work as it's the same drive system still used in heavy construction loaders. Most who learn to drive them love them. Most case people that have them say it is the last tractor to leave the farm.

Good luck with yours. In the future go down to the case page and visit with us down there, we are a friendly and helpful group.

 

[jon f mn]

I am actually just getting ready to purchase this 730. Can anybody help explain to me exactly what the case-o-matic is or what function it has? I own another Case tractor a 1030 and it does not have this option.

Oops, I explained the systems below for you. I intended to post that here.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

@GDJR your 1030 has the draft-o-matic on it too, as keith said its a pain in the arse for anything but plowing, I don't use the 3 point on my 1030 much at all, if I am doing something that needs 3 point, I grab the 800 or 830 with eagle hitch, its way easier to control in my book! I like the Case-o-matic for a lot of operations, it is awesome on a square baler, you knock it down into convertor and then can stand on brakes and basically stop forward motion to let the baler eat a lump while keeping the engine at PTO speed! the 800 and 830 I have are both COM, 1030 clearly not, I like the 1030 on the baler for visibility but the COM is way slicker to use, 800 and 830 are both short hood eagle hitch tractors, never ran an 830 comfortking COM on the baler, that may be the ticket, 730 COM would be identical except for the engine size!

 

[RJKeith]

@GDJR your 1030 has the draft-o-matic on it too, as keith said its a pain in the arse for anything but plowing, I don't use the 3 point on my 1030 much at all, if I am doing something that needs 3 point, I grab the 800 or 830 with eagle hitch, its way easier to control in my book! I like the Case-o-matic for a lot of operations, it is awesome on a square baler, you knock it down into convertor and then can stand on brakes and basically stop forward motion to let the baler eat a lump while keeping the engine at PTO speed! the 800 and 830 I have are both COM, 1030 clearly not, I like the 1030 on the baler for visibility but the COM is way slicker to use, 800 and 830 are both short hood eagle hitch tractors, never ran an 830 comfortking COM on the baler, that may be the ticket, 730 COM would be identical except for the engine size!

Also the Eagle Hitch is easier to hook up implements in my book. Not sure why Case bothered to switch to the Fergison hitch when the patent expired.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

@RJKeith I agree the eagle setup was slick as can be, I don't do much 3 point stuff, just got an 1100 IH trail mower so no more mower on 3 point, now its just the rake adapter, have a new idea rake that was for fast hitch so had a friend cut me stuff to adapt it to the eagle hitch, other than that maybe a blade or brush mower

 

[jon f mn]

@GDJR your 1030 has the draft-o-matic on it too, as keith said its a pain in the arse for anything but plowing, I don't use the 3 point on my 1030 much at all, if I am doing something that needs 3 point, I grab the 800 or 830 with eagle hitch, its way easier to control in my book! I like the Case-o-matic for a lot of operations, it is awesome on a square baler, you knock it down into convertor and then can stand on brakes and basically stop forward motion to let the baler eat a lump while keeping the engine at PTO speed! the 800 and 830 I have are both COM, 1030 clearly not, I like the 1030 on the baler for visibility but the COM is way slicker to use, 800 and 830 are both short hood eagle hitch tractors, never ran an 830 comfortking COM on the baler, that may be the ticket, 730 COM would be identical except for the engine size!

Set your draft to the position setting and it will work just like the eh.

 

[cumminstinkerer]

Set your draft to the position setting and it will work just like the eh.

my darn 1030 don't like to stay put, I think the draft lever creeps, I'm sure it needs adjusted, I'm slowly fixing stuff on the old girl as I have time and funds

 

[INCase]

Thank you for the information.

a bit more info on the Case-O-Matic
-the general operation is like a regular clutch setup. like a car/truck with an automatic, the torque converter is attached to the flywheel and that drives a set of clutch discs (clutch pack) that goes to the transmission. when you push in the clutch pedal it disengages the clutch pack (via hydraulics) and stops forward motion. the torque converter constantly powers the clutch pack

there is also a "lock out" or direct drive clutch (as many newer cars have but electronic) that is engaged to lock out the torque converter to eliminate the torque converter slippage and as RJ mentioned the lever on the dash controls this. so you generally work in torque converter mode and say you're plowing once you get going, get up to speed you hit the direct drive lever and 'bypass" the torque converter. it will jump a bit when going from torque conv. to direct drive. this lowers the slippage and makes things more efficient as well as keeps the system from getting too hot which is why they have a transmission cooler like a car and also usually have a Case-O-Matic temperature gage as well. also as RJ mentioned when you hit the clutch pedal it automatically leaves direct drive mode.

like a car if in a higher gear and the engine is idling/low speed you can stop the tractor with the brakes without clutching and ease into things like a tough spot or backing up to something.
the torque converter is handy. my 800 was mostly used for brush hogging and what not, no farming per say (tree farm). pulling out saplings was nice as you could put in a lower gear and get the chain tight and give is some gas and watch it pull out nice and easy. there is enough speed change if you got into something heavy mowing (or baling) you could bump out of direct drive and slow a bit to get thru it.

test drive and make sure the clutch pedal disengages the clutch pack as sometimes there is hydraulic failure in there AND sometimes the clutches may have gotten hot and warped so they never completely disengage = hard to shift without grinding. also try to see if it slips in direct drive which would indicate the direct drive clutch may be bad.
if taken care of the Case-o-Matics were great in my opinion. ...your mileage may vary...

 

[cumminstinkerer]

One thing on the COM that saves a lot on the direct is just before you pull it into direct let off the throttle grab direct and pick right back up on the throttle, once you get good with it you will find you can match ground speed to engine and shift without letting off the throttle, like floating gears in a big truck, just pulling into direct when the the convertor is still slipping puts a lot of load on the direct clutch, it is not very big, you don't really wont that jerk when you com into direct! also be aware if you are in COM mode it will freewheel down hills, not fun on the road, I have stupidly done it for fun and seen 35+ MPH, I do not recommend this, scary as HELL!