Questions about fabrication of MF 135 Diesel lines

[Itsbacon]

Equipment we are dealing with here is a MF 135 circa 1966(American) with the Perkins 3 cylinder (diesel burner). The long and short of it is I need to refab/rework what amounts to most if not all of the hard diesel lines from the tank to the pump/filter bowl/injector pump. I'm fairly certain I am not the first person to have to reinvent the wheel as far as the fuel/fuel delivery system is concerned, will attach pics to illustrate and can provide more for more context.

As far as a first question goes what material do you guys recommend to use when making new lines? I would think stainless steel? The lines seem to run the gamut between being sized as small as 3/16 to as big as 5/16ths and being flared and unflared. So what is actually correct?

Second question would be about the rubber grommets themselves can someone recommend or link the type you would use if you were doing this.

One last thing I can think to bring up is that for whatever reason the system as it is does not have a fuel filter, it only seems to have a sediment bowl and that's it. Would you recommend reinstalling a fuel filter set up and if so where would it actually go?

Sorry if I seem a little clueless and it might seem like I'm asking a lot as far as hand holding goes here, but I promise I am actually mechanically inclined. I just don't have any reference here as far as what is right and wrong. Thanks in advance for any help.

-Ronnie

 

[Dieseltech]

It's GOT a fuel filter, placed above the glass bowl. It doesn't look like it's ever been changed though with paint still on it. System NEEDS a filter, so don't remove it.
I use steel brake line and rubber line sleeves, brake line nuts will fit the filter and injection pump to compress the rubber grommets for sealing. The lines don't need
end flares either. I have 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 grommets on hand as other diesel systems use them too.

 

[Itsbacon]

Ok, thanks for setting me straight about the filter thing, my bad I didn't realize there is a filter actually in that glass bowl itself. But I shinned a flash light on it and looked really closely and I'm certain I see it in there like you said.

https://bostechauto.com/fuel-line-sleeve-3-16-compression-style-seal-5-pack-bt-power-sk99316/

Could you tell me if these are roughly about what I'm looking for as far as the rubber sleeves go. I realize I will need a few different sizes other than just the 3/16, but I just want to be certain I'm picking up what you're laying down here.

Thanks for taking the time to reply and give me the advice bro, I really appreciate it. And again sorry for what surely comes off as real neophyte kinds of questions here, it's just that almost all of my mechanical experience comes from working on/resto of old school cars and trucks that are all gas burners so this basically my first rodeo with diesel applications (let alone a tractor).

This post was edited by Itsbacon on 04/06/2023 at 09:19 pm.

 

[Jim.ME]

The replaceable filter element is the metal "can" above the glass bowl.

You should invest in the service manual and the Operator's Manual for your MF135. Below is a link to the MF135 parts book online at the AGCO website.

https://parts.agcocorp.com/en_US/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/651199/l&name=135+TRACTOR

 

[Itsbacon]

(quoted from post at 03:34:54 04/07/23)
The replaceable filter element is the metal "can" above the glass bowl.

You should invest in the service manual and the Operator's Manual for your MF135. Below is a link to the MF135 parts book online at the AGCO website.

https://parts.agcocorp.com/en_US/apbsearch?q=masseyferguson/651199/l&name=135+TRACTOR

Right on, thank you for the advice.

 

[Clarkbug]

https://archive.org/details/tractors-mf135_mf150_mf165_shop_service

Check that link out for a place to start at least....

Owners manual is here at this link.

https://archive.org/details/massey_ferguson_model_MF_135_tractor_operators_manual

Between those two they should help at least get you on the right path...

Good luck!

 

[MF#1]

When you replace the filter be sure you place the TOP o-ring(yellow arrow) INSIDE the filter housing, NOT laying on top of the filter where,
depending on which filter you use(WIX or Napa) it will reduce fuel flow causing starting/running issues.
Are the fuel supply lines cracked or damaged? I've soldered them before with good results. If they are intact then maybe all you need are
some new sleeves or 'olives' to stop leaking. I would contact Dieseltech and buy them from him, he'll know which ones you need.
Good Luck with it!

 

[Itsbacon]

(quoted from post at 19:08:53 04/07/23)
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto151892.png>
When you replace the filter be sure you place the TOP o-ring(yellow arrow) INSIDE the filter housing, NOT laying on top of the filter where,
depending on which filter you use(WIX or Napa) it will reduce fuel flow causing starting/running issues.
Are the fuel supply lines cracked or damaged? I've soldered them before with good results. If they are intact then maybe all you need are
some new sleeves or 'olives' to stop leaking. I would contact Dieseltech and buy them from him, he'll know which ones you need.
Good Luck with it!

You could basically say that all the small 3/16 lines from the tank (to include the leak off line from injectors) are shot in form or another, even the tap under the tank seems to have a leak. All those 3/16 lines show evidence of past attempts to fix them with solder, but it's just not holding up anymore hence why I know it's just time to bite the bullet and go for replacement. That being said all the bigger lines that run from the fuel filter over to the mechanical fuel pump and injector pump etc seem okay, so I may be able to get away with just addressing the smaller lines. As far as getting the ahold of rubber sleeves go, it seems like they are fairly readily available on the web and this very website for instance has some for sale.

 

[jtxn]

I would pick up a new fuel tap as well. Try to clean the tank since you'll have it off anyways.

The 135 tap has been superseded with a new part with NO mesh screen filter. They made a raised lip to keep the rust out.

Injection pump rebuild is a good thing to do as well if you really want a clean fuel system.