sediment bowl repair

[SDE]

It leaked from the gasket/bowl area. It hadn't had gas in it for 19 months and the gasket must have dried out to much to seal properly. So I removed it from the tank. While I had it out I mounted it in a vise and poured gas into the inlet and with the valve shut, the gas dripped down into the empty bowl. I removed the shut off valve and attempted to clean up that plunger, in my lathe using a file and sand paper. It still leaks. Can it be fixed? Did I do a poor job and need to do it over again?
TY
SDE

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

A file and sandpaper are not nearly fine enough to polish the plunger to where it needs to be to make a good seal. You also need to polish the seat.

Really they need to be lapped together to make a good seal.

Most likely you did more harm than good in your lathe.

 

[jhwis]

Have you priced out a new sediment bowl assembly??

 

[Steve@Advance]

Only if this is an original equipment assembly is it worth trying to fix.

The needle valve seat is probably eroded away from corrosion, may be no fixing it.

If it's aftermarket, just buy another one. And get ready to buy another, and another, and another...

 

[SDE]

But, but, but I used 400 grit, and it was shiny. The seat may be the real problem.
TY

 

[Meangreen]

I agree with the previous posters, finding an aftermarket sediment bowl that doesn't leak is almost impossible. I have purchased from different suppliers and at different price points and the quality is all over the board. Good luck to you!

 

[SDE]

I real do not like the idea of, another, another, and another. That is why I thought I would try a repair first.
TY
SDE

 

[SDE]

I have not. I have another off of a junk 44 Massey. It is in better working condition but, the outlet is a different sized end. I am going to go to a hardware store and see if I can find an adapter.
TY
SDE

 

[Petnew56]

I have been trying to deal with the same problem for over a week now. I have the original unit but was cleaning the glass bowl and I managed to drop it on the concrete floor. Of course it broke into small pieces.

The glass bowl isn't that expensive but shipping to Canada is $45.00 so I bought a complete unit. I installed the new unit and the thing leaked from all over. I managed to fix the leaks on the fuel line but the bowl is another story.

I figured out that the rubber gasket is the wrong size so will never seal no matter what I do. It isn't clear if the rubber gasket started off the correct size and grew or it was always too big, Again I can order the gasket but it's $45.00 shipping. Will see if I can find an 'o' ring that will fit. There is a part number to get one from NAPA. Also considered buying some gasket material and making one.

The saga continues ...

Peter

 

[cjunrau]

I will probably show my ignorance here but what are forums for??
I understand you are having a hard time getting the glass bowl to seal up against a flat steel area. and a wire hangs down both sides with a screw like thing to tighten it up. My fix is ultra silicone. Just add a little onto a cornflakes box gasket and install. If you put a nice layer on both sides set it but don't tighten all the way. come back in 12-20 hours and tighten up and she won't leak

 

[cjunrau]

just a quick story of todays rubber. i have a 2394 and the rubber grommet that seals the bottom of fuel tank was leaking again. bought a brand new one $32
tightened it up and 12 hours later there is half gallon or more of fuel on the floor. took it back out and it is completely split in half. 1 day old... ultra silicone to the rescue.

 

[DIM]

I had the same problem and spend over $60.00 on new ones trying to find one that did not leak. So I said the heck with it and did away with it. I put a rubber gas line on it In the line I put a tee. On the bottom of the tee I put a short hose with a plug. Now any water drops into the short hose and I take the plug out ever now and then and drain off the water. Between the tee and carb I put a plastic inline filter. Does not look original but it works. .

 

[flying belgian]

I'm so glad I don't have to deal with sediment bowls anymore. All my tractors are diesel. Growing up we had 6 gas tractors. I just don't remember having trouble with the sediment bowls. What has changed?

 

[Crazy Horse]

DIM ..... I've often wondered why so many struggle with those sediment bowls, I just use a brass shut off valve and like you, a simple inline fuel filter. Keep the sediment bowl assembly in a little shoe box for the next guy to use if he wants right?

 

[Ohio88]

Quit using sediment bowls. Put a brass elbow in add a pipe and a shut off valve. Put an inline filter between the valve and the filter. On some we had to add a short nipple to drop the pipe low enough to pas by any obstacles.

 

[johndeerejim]

I purchased a new sediment bowl from YT and it leaked from the bowl gasket. I was going to change that gasket but it was the wrong gasket (that I ordered). So, I tightened it down and it stopped leaking. I had a leak were the fuel line screws in and fixed that with Teflon tape. They make brass fittings which was the next course. I would make sure it is tight. I wasnt going to fix the original one, was black from 10 years worth of bad fuel sitting in it.

 

[JD Dave]

It should not leak because there's almost zero pressure on it, just gravity. Make sure the housing surface is clean and the glass bowl has no chips at the sealing surface. Cork, neoprene and viton gaskets are available in the correct size. Put a drop of oil on the bail screw threads and tighten one extra scrunch with pliers after finger-tight.

 

[504]

I just rebuild the old ones,one seal and one gasket,and some steel wool for polishing.

 

[Tgrasher]

The cork/rubber gasket gasket sheet 1/8 thick works the best. Cut it big enough so it stays in place and you don't have the bowl slipping off the edge. I don't even try to use the store gaskets.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Probably need to use valve grinding compound or something like toothpaste to lap it with. after all if they will seal air they should seal liquid.

 

[dandeere]

Well my tale of making cork gaskets is that some sheet cork is made with shellac and that isnt stable with ethanol gas I learned the hard way

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I think your lathe is the answer, but you need to go a bit further. Drill a little bit out of the seat, just enough to make it shiny. Use as big a bit or Phillips head screwdriver that will fit through the threads, to keep the seat perpendicular to the screw. Now turn the point on the screw to the same angle as whatever device you used to clean up the seat. I personally think an old screwdriver is best because you can alter the shank with your lathe for a perfect fit for maximum accuracy. If youre still having trouble in the gasket area, first make sure the casting is flat. Over time, the pull of the bail will warp it, making it impossible to seal with a ordinary gasket. If there is enough meat , you can true it up with your lathe. If there is not enough meat, such as in a Farmall 460D, then make a steel gasket out of a flat washer, then glue it in the casting with epoxy. You now have a flat gasket surface that will easily seal with the gasket material of your choice, and work by tightening with your fingers, the way it was originally intended to work.