Sleeve Protrusion 310 idi diesel

oakdaleotter

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I'm ready to start fitting sleeves into the block. Book says 1 to 4 thousand. Mine are measuring at about 1. Is there any advantage to shimming closer to 4? What is important when installing new sleeves? 1800c. Lanova injection.
 
You would probably be ok at .001" with that engine. They do make .002 shims. With more liner projection, the head gasket fire ring will get more crush and less likely for it to blow.
 
Are you meausuring with a dial indicator and a bridge of some type? Do you have sleeves clamped down in place? You need to measure all the way around the sleeve not just in one spot. Is .001 the minimum and you have other spots that are more than this?
Also make darn sure the bores in block were the sleeve o-rings seal are polished up nice. I always use some right stuff or similiar silocone gasket maker in those bores to ensure a seal. I have yet to see a block that didnt have some amount of pitting.
 

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You would probably be ok at .001" with that engine. They do make .002 shims. With more liner projection, the head gasket fire ring will get more crush and less likely for it to blow.
I have shims. So, more crush is better, just don't go more than four anywhere. One hole started off 10 over but was sitting on carbon. What can I use to clean out the carbon buildup? Is a wire wheel ok?
 
Are you meausuring with a dial indicator and a bridge of some type? Do you have sleeves clamped down in place? You need to measure all the way around the sleeve not just in one spot. Is .001 the minimum and you have other spots that are more than this?
Also make darn sure the bores in block were the sleeve o-rings seal are polished up nice. I always use some right stuff or similiar silocone gasket maker in those bores to ensure a seal. I have yet to see a block that didnt have some amount of pitting.
Thanks for the picture and response. I am using a dial caliper. What should I use to clean/polish the o-rings landings? So far I wire wheeled the area. Looking better there than I feared. Any tips on removing carbon from the top groove? Is wire wheel ok?
 
In my opinion using a dial caliper is not going to be accurate/consistent enough. Trust me you need a dial indicator mounted to appropriate size bridge or small step block of some kind. Google it you will see what I mean. If you are still cleaning the counter bores ( I assume that is what you mean by top grooves?) then you really dont know what your protrusion is. your wire wheel should work fine for that.
To clean the O-ring sealing surface I use a wire wheel on an extension rod, then polish up with a fine rotary scotch brite flap disc. Have used cylinder hone but if you are not carefull its kind of hard on the stones. Hope you have a successful build. I was going to say good luck with your build, but luck isnt going to rebuild your engine properly!
 
In my opinion using a dial caliper is not going to be accurate/consistent enough. Trust me you need a dial indicator mounted to appropriate size bridge or small step block of some kind. Google it you will see what I mean. If you are still cleaning the counter bores ( I assume that is what you mean by top grooves?) then you really dont know what your protrusion is. your wire wheel should work fine for that.
To clean the O-ring sealing surface I use a wire wheel on an extension rod, then polish up with a fine rotary scotch brite flap disc. Have used cylinder hone but if you are not carefull its kind of hard on the stones. Hope you have a successful build. I was going to say good luck with your build, but luck isnt going to rebuild your engine properly!
Thanks so much for the detailed response. These details are what I need to move forward.
I have acquired a dial indicator.
 
Keep us posted, interesting story, we have some 310 background, I'm hoping you have better experience with your work.
As Chris Losey, The Oliver Guy, YouTube, says, use Arrow parts, not reliance parts.
GG Wes
 
Could I get some pictures of what people have made, bought or repurposed as a bridge to hold their dial indicator? In Tom Uptons picture above he used a flare tool vise. Good idea. Mine isn't quite long enough to work well. I'm thinking about finding a piece of square stock like 1" and making one. So far my measuring has been difficult, clumsy, using a magnetic base.
 
Could I get some pictures of what people have made, bought or repurposed as a bridge to hold their dial indicator? In Tom Uptons picture above he used a flare tool vise. Good idea. Mine isn't quite long enough to work well. I'm thinking about finding a piece of square stock like 1" and making one. So far my measuring has been difficult, clumsy, using a magnetic base.
Our mechanic used a snap on straight edge, then measured off of it, doing the math at three edges of each sleeve.
He was very methodical.
Father in laws 1755 block had not been decked correctly earlier.
GG Wes
 
Your mag base should work, just dont use the magnet. All you are doing is zeroing out on the sleeve or the deck and moving slightly to the other surface to see the difference. Just kind of hold down on the base and ROTATE it slightly to check the difference between sleeve and block deck. It is easier to do with a bridge or stepped precision block to clamp your indicator in but your mag base will work as well once you get the hang of it.
 
Thanks everyone for all the comments. Have good luck on all holes except one. Measures one thousand on one side and 5 on the other side. It appears that it is a carbon buildup. Can't seem to remove it with wire wheel there I use a scraper.
 

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