Stuck valve options?

I systematically check them. Dry test, then wet, each cylinder. No overnight or even coffee break between testing or adding oil. Like this-throttle wide open, test dry, add oil, test wet, each cylinder in sequence. You should do the whole test over again, just to be certain of your readings. I do it twice, just to be sure.
 
I systematically check them. Dry test, then wet, each cylinder. No overnight or even coffee break between testing or adding oil. Like this-throttle wide open, test dry, add oil, test wet, each cylinder in sequence. You should do the whole test over again, just to be certain of your readings. I do it twice, just to be sure.
Got it! Thanks
 
As I mentioned, I'm not a mechanic, I can only describe my issue as I see it. If you would like to elaborate on "all over the board", I would be happy to explain. What part of diagnosis am I all over the board? I will try to explain the best I can. I generally explain my past experience when I post a topic so that the best of mechanics would understand but i figured a good mechanic could tell by my description, so I stopped making excuses. Im sure they had to learn as well, unless they were born with wrenches in their hands. No disrespect Eman! Doesn't hurt to learn....thats what this forum is for, right? I can see how an experience mechanic that works on these tractors everyday can say that but I haven't recieved any direct questions regarding my description or diagnosis, so I can only assume my diagnosis of my issue is accurate. Shoot, in my 65 years, I've never worked on an engine in my life accept for general maintenance. So I do the best I can with the little experience I have. I take all tips and advice serious although tips and advice vary. I don't plan on pulling the hood off so now I have to re-evaluate the previous tips from other members to see what the best course of action would be as far as pooring ATF or just a few blasts of PB blaster in the cylinders. I don't want to create more problems than I need. I haven't even gotten to that point yet, so I appreciate the heads up. I installed blue streak points/condenser and a known good working coil last evening, so if my compression test has good results today, I will try to fire it up again. If compression test fails, I will open side covers and inspect valves to see what I can find. That will determine if I need to reach out for more help on YT.

I sure hope I don't have to explain myself again. Turning into a social platform!

Happy New Year Eman!
Don't worry about Eman, remember there are all kinds here as on any forum and most are speed readers. many will read part of a post and think that they know the question and answer. No you are not all over the board. And no an oily film on new points is not a "thing", it is just a "suburban myth" that gets propagated on forums. I would like to know more about: "The shaft with lobes seamed smaller and I had to make modifications to the points base." that sounds like it could be a big problem.
 
Don't worry about Eman, remember there are all kinds here as on any forum and most are speed readers. many will read part of a post and think that they know the question and answer. No you are not all over the board. And no an oily film on new points is not a "thing", it is just a "suburban myth" that gets propagated on forums. I would like to know more about: "The shaft with lobes seamed smaller and I had to make modifications to the points base." that sounds like it could be a big problem.
I appreciate Eman! Got alot of good tips from him. All is good! It may be the points that differed showcrop, now that I think about it. I compared them and they appeared to be the same but as i said, I had to make mods to the points. The plate shaft remained the same. I wouldn't think parts would differ like that, especially under the same tractor fitment. A lesson learned. That's another good tip I picked up...buying quality parts. Make sense?
 
Hold the throttle wide open, no air in nothing to compress.
Thanks Eman, appreciate your input! With throttle wide open, will I expect higher compression numbers? I sure hope so because the previous owner said he put a new rebuilt head. I'm not sure if he meant new or newly rebuilt. I'm beginning to think he wasn't completely honest. He seen me coming! Except for this issue, the tractor operates beautifully.
 
Last edited:
Don't worry about Eman, remember there are all kinds here as on any forum and most are speed readers. many will read part of a post and think that they know the question and answer. No you are not all over the board. And no an oily film on new points is not a "thing", it is just a "suburban myth" that gets propagated on forums. I would like to know more about: "The shaft with lobes seamed smaller and I had to make modifications to the points base." that sounds like it could be a big problem.
You worded my question how I wanted to but I didn't know how to express it. " And no an oily film on new points is not a thing". I do have a question, if I put oil in the plug holes on top of cylinders as suggested from members for tge wet compression test, will it create a film on the plugs or foul them out after I try to start it? Or, do I need to clean up? Not sure Showcrop.
 
A single squirt will be quickly flushed away by the incoming fuel air mix. A single squirt will flow out and down to the rigs pretty quickly but I would allow five minutes because carbon on the tops of the pistons could slow it down.
 
A single squirt will be quickly flushed away by the incoming fuel air mix. A single squirt will flow out and down to the rigs pretty quickly but I would allow five minutes because carbon on the tops of the pistons could slow it down.
That answers my question, thanks
 
After the dry test results, I went ahead and purchased a new quality coil and put the distributer back on. Unbelievably, the tractor Fired up, runs like a charm. This is the 3rd coil I've gone through. 1st one I thought was bad due to low spark so I replaced it with a cheap coil from Amazon. I read alot of threads saying just because the coils ohm out ok doesn't mean its a good coil. Bought my 3rd one all ag states parts. After all the trouble shooting and help I got from you guys, taking up your time, it ended up being a coil. Spark is blue on all cylinders now. I will eventually trouble shoot the low compression but not until fall, after snow season. Thank you for all your help.
 
After the dry test results, I went ahead and purchased a new quality coil and put the distributer back on. Unbelievably, the tractor Fired up, runs like a charm. This is the 3rd coil I've gone through. 1st one I thought was bad due to low spark so I replaced it with a cheap coil from Amazon. I read alot of threads saying just because the coils ohm out ok doesn't mean its a good coil. Bought my 3rd one all ag states parts. After all the trouble shooting and help I got from you guys, taking up your time, it ended up being a coil. Spark is blue on all cylinders now. I will eventually trouble shoot the low compression but not until fall, after snow season. Thank you for all your help.
I have had a coil that I bought from Tractor Supply almost 20 years ago without problems. A good part is good no matter who sells it. I have used BWD points from O'reillys for years that have run without problems and were only replaced because I had bought new ones. That said,the quality is pretty much gone compared with the old Sorensen points that I used back in the days when all cars used points.
 
I have had a coil that I bought from Tractor Supply almost 20 years ago without problems. A good part is good no matter who sells it. I have used BWD points from O'reillys for years that have run without problems and were only replaced because I had bought new ones. That said,the quality is pretty much gone compared with the old Sorensen points that I used back in the days when all cars used points.
Have you rebuilt your carb yet? I want to have the correct jets, float, etc.. for a cheap carb that is on my tractor. Or a quality carb replacement? 1947 2N
 
After the dry test results, I went ahead and purchased a new quality coil and put the distributer back on. Unbelievably, the tractor Fired up, runs like a charm. This is the 3rd coil I've gone through. 1st one I thought was bad due to low spark so I replaced it with a cheap coil from Amazon. I read alot of threads saying just because the coils ohm out ok doesn't mean its a good coil. Bought my 3rd one all ag states parts. After all the trouble shooting and help I got from you guys, taking up your time, it ended up being a coil. Spark is blue on all cylinders now. I will eventually trouble shoot the low compression but not until fall, after snow season. Thank you for all your help.
And the moral of the your story izzzzzzzz.(what did you learn) I am not gonna unravel your story I will make a prediction (don't doubt me I am normally right) take my advice and have a spare coil on hand. #1 its the nature of the beast and #2 that square can coil 6 are 12V must have a external resister that I don't think you have. #3 see #1

I hope one day your helpes will say prove what you state without a doubt until you prove it without a doubt you are on your own : ) no excuses.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top