Super A Oil Pressure

We cant seem to get oil pressure on our '48 Super A. The oil pressure gauge shows low oil pressure, changed the gauge but still no pressure. Removed the oil pump and had it milled down so we were sure we didn't have warping causing the low pressure but that didn't work. Changed the oil pump from a different Farmall tractor that did have oil pressure but it didn't change the pressure, still barely reads on the gauge. Replaced the 0.010" Connecting Rod Bearings and the Main Bearing Set, 2.115" (0.010" undersize), still didn't make a difference. Just as a check to make sure we didn't have a clog in the bolts we blew air pressure through the holes while we had it apart and there were no clogs.

The next recommended step was to replace the camshaft or do an inline boring. I cant seem to find a camshaft replacement for a Super A and not even sure if it would help.

I purchased the tractor about 9 months ago, it never had oil pressure since I bought it but assumed the problem was a bad pressure gauge which I was going to replace anyways if nothing else just for looks. We removed the valve cover and the lifters were dry as a bone, so we began our mission.

Any suggestions are appreciated...
 
Rig up a pressure pot and pump oil into the port where the oil pressure gage goes. With the oil pan off, you will be able to see where the major oil loss is. I don’t see what boring the camshaft holes in the block is supposed to accomplish, unless there is a camshaft out there with oversize journals.
 
was oil being pumped up to rockers arm with both pumps ? I assume the rockers are free from residual sludge.
try air loss test ,remove the valve oiler stud , at the head , put 20 psi air pressure into and read guage to see drop in pressure , with pan off ,it will come out at the the points of less resistance

.was the gears wear faced off also? ( have to remove exact amount from gear pump to maintain proper clearance if so .Was wear remove out pump housing?

i measured the super c cam have and the cam bore is out of spec two to three thousand ,I just think they were loose at factory. low rpm engine with 30 weight oil

if I was going to pull it I’d have the the cam journals built up and reground to fit for oil cleare your stepped cam bore.

was the oil pump relief spring checked for fatigue , ball seat in good condition.
 
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It kind of sounds like you are talking no oil pressure at all. Since you tried a different pump assuming it was good then I’d be wondering about the cam drive gear.
So other things I would do in order before that:
Verify there’s enough oil to cover the pump but that should go without saying and that it’s not thin like 5w20 anything 30w or 40 for the second number assuming you don’t live in Alaska.
1. Put a little hydraulic hose with a pipe thread valve where the gauge is. Open it up see if there’s flow as that is out of the main passage. At an idle or even full throttle(I wouldn’t) we are talking less than garden hose pressure so it should go into a pail pretty smoothly. Flow is different than pressure. Pressure takes a restriction with no restriction straight to pail you should have reasonable flow. Alternatively if you have a spin on oil filter and wonder if the gauge passage is blocked pole a hole in the side of it and see does it shoot out? Realistically if you blow a bit of air back through that port it should clean out but anything is possible. If yours has the steel can filter it might be a bit harder or messier but loosening a crack is an option. The filter feeder passage is also closer to the oil pump than the gauge so more likely to have better flow in the absence of restriction.
2 I assume the pump screen was checked. If you did the cover plate polishing that means you had the relief valve in the pump apart I assume everything looked good there
3. Regardless if you have flow or not the next item to check is camshaft but the reason I’d check flow is what you are focusing on is different. If there is no flow is the key on the gear broken? Possibly if the whole pump was swapped with the other one? If there is flow are your tolerances correct? If there’s flow then begin the air test like described. If nothing super obvious is really found then take out the cam and start measuring. It sounds like it’s going to need bearings everywhere at the very least
 

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If the engine had service or rebuild before you got it it could have a gallery plug that was left out. the oil galleries have internal pipe plugs that are often removed to do a hot tank cleaning. I agree with Fixing Farmer's solution it is the way to find the issue. Jim
 
If the engine had service or rebuild before you got it it could have a gallery plug that was left out. the oil galleries have internal pipe plugs that are often removed to do a hot tank cleaning. I agree with Fixing Farmer's solution it is the way to find the issue. Jim
That engine has no cam bearings, it is cam journal on block metal. there has been no reports of those, seemingly crude, cam support surfaces wearing out. So they work. Jim
 
If the engine had service or rebuild before you got it it could have a gallery plug that was left out. the oil galleries have internal pipe plugs that are often removed to do a hot tank cleaning. I agree with Fixing Farmer's solution it is the way to find the issue. Jim
That’s a often reoccurring problem in the farmall cub world I wasn’t sure with the 113 engine
 
the first thing i would do is install a master gauge and get a psi reading. you keep talking low pressure,... but what is low pressure?
 
If the engine had service or rebuild before you got it it could have a gallery plug that was left out. the oil galleries have internal pipe plugs that are often removed to do a hot tank cleaning. I agree with Fixing Farmer's solution it is the way to find the issue. Jim
This, or alternately look at filter assembly. These use by-pass filters which require a restriction to maintain system oil pressure. Orherwise, too much oil goes through the filter and system pressure suffers. I thought restriction was in the filter, but if spin off filter conversions work, then it must be in oil supply somewhere. I suggest you research filter system to confirm presence of restriction. Danny
 
That engine has no cam bearings, it is cam journal on block metal. there has been no reports of those, seemingly crude, cam support surfaces wearing out. So they work. Jim
I would not be to fast to say that, my BN is only 76 years old so I'll give it a bit more time before I decide if the lack of cam bearings is going to be a problem.

I run straight 40 weight oil and mostly only run it for mowing so that seems to work. Pressure reading on the, I believe, original gauge stays just below the halfway up in the green zone when hot a little higher cold.
 
This, or alternately look at filter assembly. These use by-pass filters which require a restriction to maintain system oil pressure. Orherwise, too much oil goes through the filter and system pressure suffers. I thought restriction was in the filter, but if spin off filter conversions work, then it must be in oil supply somewhere. I suggest you research filter system to confirm presence of restriction. Danny
UI
This, or alternately look at filter assembly. These use by-pass filters which require a restriction to maintain system oil pressure. Orherwise, too much oil goes through the filter and system pressure suffers. I thought restriction was in the filter, but if spin off filter conversions work, then it must be in oil supply somewhere. I suggest you research filter system to confirm presence of restriction. Danny
IIRC, the restriction that limits oil flow through the filter is in the filter housing retainer bolt.
 
UI

IIRC, the restriction that limits oil flow through the filter is in the filter housing retainer bolt
Wore out is correct, there is a hole in the side of the hollow canister hold down bolt that meters the amount of oil bypassed to be filtered, somewhere around a 1/16” dia.
I think it is interesting the OP’s user information shows him viewing the similar threads below about the “Super 55 with low oil pressure” several minutes ago. Yet he has made no replies to the questions above. (Sure is nice to be able to say “above” and know it will be correct because the post is not being viewed two different ways) Maybe he is typing a reply as I type.
 
Wore out is correct, there is a hole in the side of the hollow canister hold down bolt that meters the amount of oil bypassed to be filtered, somewhere around a 1/16” dia.
I think it is interesting the OP’s user information shows him viewing the similar threads below about the “Super 55 with low oil pressure” several minutes ago. Yet he has made no replies to the questions above. (Sure is nice to be able to say “above” and know it will be correct because the post is not being viewed two different ways) Maybe he is typing a reply as I type.
That is interesting. So possibly if he were to have a spin on filter kit that wasn’t the correct one oil pressure could be lower if that hole is is too big or just plain isn’t there...I know I bought mine from ih. I don’t see anything in his post either way as to which type he has but that would be something to watch for and if he bought the tractor and it was already on it the solution might be more simple than feared. Speculation I suppose won’t get us far hopefully he gets a chance over the next few days to try some stuff and let us know. I know mine is never super high with modern oils that all kind of just barely reach over the acceptable line on the tractor gauge when I’ve tested them 13 psi on the Deere 15 on the red one at idle it just is what it is. Nowadays you would stop your pickup or tractor right now big scary red light for pressure that low
 
I have read and appreciate all replies. I wait to work on the tractor when my brother is available. His shop, his tools, it is my tractor but guess which one gets to make up the rules.

We did try the air pressure test, sounds like the air is spewing out inside of the engine without blowing oil out of any place we can find. I am inclined to think the gallery plug has not been reinstalled, here is my rationale... With the oil pan off and looking up inside the engine it is crystal clean, no sludge, no build up, the engine interior appears to have been hot tank cleaned. I cant imagine the tractor being 75 years old and being that clean inside. My hope is the plug was removed, not replaced, and until this thread we were not on the lookout for a gallery plug. The diagram posted by Fixingfarmer was a HUGE help.

The pistons appear to have been replaced, they are nice and shiny. The bearings replaced had moderate wear, we checked the tolerance and it was less than .0010. We are running 30 weight oil, non detergent, the tractor is in KY. There are no visible wear marks on the camshaft.

I greatly appreciate all who have weighed in on this, when I do get the pressure fixed I will post the cause/solution to the problem. I will also post some photos of the interior of the motor, any help/observations/ suggestions are also welcome.
 
I suppose the holes in the main bearings could have been punched in the wrong place so they cover the block hole up not letting oil flow through to the rods and cam. OR a plugged hole in the crank would limit oil flow to those rods. Or plugged block not showing up till now with no air blowing through it. Don't use a very high pressure since you don't want a particle being blown hard against bearing surfaces inside. A squirt can should make oil leak out the bearings when you pump it if you look when the pan is off. would need top be a sealed connection between the squrit can and the block though.
 
A blocked main bearing hole would only starve oil from that particular bearing and the associated rod bearings fed through the cross-drilled crank. This would only cause those bearings to fail. This would have no affect on the pressure on the oil gallery where the pressure is read accept maybe to raise it.
 

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