Super C auxilary valve parts

[G. Wright]

The auxilary valve for the fast hitch lift cylinder is leaking around the spool. I have not been able to find kits/parts for this valve. Also, how do you get it apart? The big hex on the bottom of the valve won't budge.

 

[mkirsch]

If this is the valve that bolts on to the side of the hydraulic block, there is an exploded view and a parts list with CaseIH numbers at the caseih website. wwwDOTcaseihDOTcom

There's a new web page design. Parts search is in a little menu at the top.

Once in the parts search system, look up Super C and go to the hydraulic system views. It looks like you need seal 356784R91 or 361086R91 on the top to make it stop leaking. The seal can probably be cross referenced to a compatible alternative.

The assembly view is not great, but it looks like the hex plug does come off the bottom.

 

[Larry in GA.]

That big flat looking thing doesn’t come off
The Case/IH web parts page is a great help no mater what you are doing.
Our Case/IH dealer had all the parts to rebuild it when I did mine about a year ago.
I went to the dealer only because of the flat seals that are between the lines and the valve and the valve and block
The only pricey thing is the boot. Good luck

 

[gab]

Been a long time since I had mine apart but I think that spool has one o-ring, the rubber boot on top is about thirty bucks and there"s a big copper washer on the big nut at the bottom.

 

[Idaho Ron]

A parts man at KAMAN INDUSTRIAL TECHNOLOGIES gave me the cross part number of National Seal 253747. I got my seal from Case IH. he bottom plug will come out, put a good box end wrench on it a go for it. Ron

 

[hyounker]

I know this is a very old post, but i am hoping for more detail. Specifically, what do I need to do to get the seal out?

I have the parts, but now I need to get it apart. I took it off the tractor for a good bath as the fluid made a mess of it. So if I get that big nut off the bottom, that will somehow allow the valve shaft to come out and allow me to replace the seal? I'm hesitant to start pulling things off and finding more trouble because something fell apart when I took it apart.

I found the diagram on caseih.com. Awesome.

 

[hyounker]

I think a great deal of the problem with finding information about this valve is bad spelling. The word "auxiliary" is misspelled all over this forum and searches for the proper spelling reveal little. I changed the subject line in this post to hopefully help. Auxiliary control valve.

Nonetheless, from my recent experience, removing the large nut on the bottom does in fact allow removal of the entire "shaft". Everything comes out in one piece. Mine looked nearly new. I replaced the seal with the National Seal 253747 that I purchased ($5) from O'Reilly's Auto Parts here in Conyers, GA. I wasn't prepared to replace the copper washer (IH p/n 356799R1), so I am hopeful that it is okay. I also ordered a new boot from Steiner (p/n IHS706).

Maybe this info will help someone in the future.

Here's a link to the caseih parts page for this tractor:

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih/tractors/utility/naaa87uti099legacy/farmall-tractor/cn/00E26496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6

 

[hyounker]

Revisiting this topic again almost a year later. When I replaced the seal, I must have damaged it and didn't notice it. It started to leak in June or July and by October it was pouring fluid. I removed it Saturday and I could see that the seal was damaged. I had a replacement seal ready to go and this time I watched carefully for damaging it while installing. Well, sure enough, I damaged the new seal. After you seat the new seal, you have to push the shaft, from the bottom, up through the valve body and through the seal. The channel that is machined in the shaft for the boot catches the inside sealing rubber surface and damages the seal. I am using the National Seal 253747. It may be that there is slight difference in this replacement seal and that the original seal's sealing surface was angled differently to allow it to slide past this channel without damage. Has anyone successfully replaced this seal and if so, how did you get past the boot channel without damaging the seal. Thanks for any help.

 

[Rick Remmert]

The auxilary valve for the fast hitch lift cylinder is leaking around the spool. I have not been able to find kits/parts for this valve. Also, how do you get it apart? The big hex on the bottom of the valve won't budge.

I repacked mine about a month ago for the 2nd time in probably 10 years. The first thing I learned was to loosen the plug on the bottom while it is still bolted to the tractor. It is much easier that way. Also before you reassemble it, take a file and some emery paper and smooth around the pinhole at the top that the lever hooks to. There will be a sharp edge on it that will ruin the new seal when you put it back together. The Case IH number for the seal and gasket is CA 71248C1. The price was $44.28. Nation Oil Seals was bought out by Timken years back. The Timken number for just the seal is 340849. Back in 2013, it was $4.30. I hope this helps.

 

[hyounker]

I recall cleaning up that hole a year ago. Maybe you've posted this info before and I saw it then. For this recent attempt, I did not remove the valve body from the tractor at all. Searches for the original National Seal number seem to be more productive, presumably because Timken may have lowered production for this seal. Have you seen the Case part along side the National/Timken part? Are there any differences? Again, the damage is occurring in the channel/groove that was machined to hold the boot in place. The bottom edge is a sharp 90 degrees and that area pulls the rubber from the seal back inside itself, eventually breaking the tiny spring inside. I may put this in a lathe and machine a slight chamfer on the leading end of the bottom side of that channel/groove, just enough to break the sharpness of it a bit.

 

[hyounker]

I was able to replace this seal, finally, without damaging it. I cleaned up everything above the boot groove with Emory cloth to remove any rough surfaces. I also cut a slight chamfer in the bottom part of the boot groove. In my previous attempts, I seated the seal and then pushed the spool up through it. This doesn't work very well. This last attempt, I pushed the spool through the valve body, added the seal to the spool, and then with my third hand, held the spool in place while I seated the seal with a couple taps from a socket and hammer. Unless you have longer deep well sockets than I have, you'll have to leave the bottom nut off so that you can lower the spool so that your socket reaches the seal. So far so good. I used National seal 253747. That's what was available locally.

 

[Longknife]

When I have to insert a machined part with a sharp corner on it through a seal, I put electrical tape over the sharp area.