super88 update

super99

Well-known Member
I bought a super 88 diesel from a friend in our tractor club. It has set inside his heated shop for 6 or 8 years and hasn't been started. He has told me for the last 3 or 4 years he was going to get it running someday, I kept after him to sell it to me. He called me in January and said that his kidneys were failing and he has to go to dialisis 3 times a week and realized that he would probably never get it running if I was still interested. I went and looked at it and we agreed to a price. I went up and took the injection pump off and tried to turn it over with a breaker bar but no go. I pulled the injectors out and put some ATF in each cylinder. I sent the pump to dieseltech to get checked out. He said the sleeve and metering rod were stuck but he was able to free them up and checked it over and said it was OK now. Thanks again Richard! I went up last week and took a battery and a couple of bars to see it it would turn over. I put the battery in, hung a towel over the side to catch the ATF if it turned over. I pushed the rod a few times and the bendix wouldn't engage at first but finally caught and it spun over freely. Hooray!!! I put the injectors back in and then had a brain fart, I thought it would be easier to put the return lines on while they were out in the open, so I put them all on and then realized that the injector lines had to go on first, DUH!! So I took them all back off, got the injector lines on and then the return lines. 99.9 % sure it's timed correctly but I ran out of time to work on it that day. I just had carpal tunnel surgery yesterday so it'll be a couple of weeks before I can take some fuel back and see if it starts and then get it home. The battery tray is set up for 2 batteries and it has the small flip up opening in the hood for the batteries. I'm thinking about getting 2 small 12 batteries instead of 2 6 volts and hooking them up that way. It needs fuel, be a good time to replace the fuel filters before trying to start it. I looked at Napa but I don't think they were showing the correct filters for it so I need to do some looking for those. He said the braked were locked up and he had to take the covers off to get it inside when he parked it. I tried to take the actuators out but the linkage is froze and he didn't have a torch to heat them with, I don't really want to haul my torch an hour up there to heat them, might try a small propane torch to see if I can get them hot enough to move the rod to get them out. I'll post more when I get to where I can work on it again. PS I don't need it, just always wanted one, you know how that goes!
 
Happy to hear you got it turning over and pump is good. Hope to see a video of it running soon. I Know all about needing or wanting as my wife schools me on the difference every time I want to buy an old tractor!
 
IMG_20230503_200238554.jpg

Here's your driver side filter replacement.
Wix is no longer making it.
GG Wes
 
The battery tray is set up for 2 batteries and it has the small flip up opening in the hood for the batteries. I'm thinking about getting 2 small 12 batteries instead of 2 6 volts and hooking them up that way.
Careful with this. The wiring might not be designed for that much extra voltage and current, creating a fire risk.

Seeing as those you're a well known member and are actually working on it yourself, I would assume you're already familiar with this, but just in case, or for any new members, here is a basic run down:
If the 6V batteries were wired in series (in the case of a negative ground system, this would be one battery positive to the starter solenoid, that battery's negative terminal hooked to the other 6V battery's positive terminal, and that battery's negative terminal grounded) , they would essentially function as a 12V system, but would only have the amperage of one of the 6V batteries.
If the 6V batteries were wired in parallel (both positives go to the starter solenoid, both negatives are grounded), so the system would still be 6V, but the amperage would double.
 
89 MJ
A super 88 diesel originally was a 12 volt system. The generator was also set up with the positive cable on the battery going to the ground.
I figured that it might have been a negative ground set up based on the year, I just used positive ground as an example
 
Careful with this. The wiring might not be designed for that much extra voltage and current, creating a fire risk.

Seeing as those you're a well known member and are actually working on it yourself, I would assume you're already familiar with this, but just in case, or for any new members, here is a basic run down:
If the 6V batteries were wired in series (in the case of a negative ground system, this would be one battery positive to the starter solenoid, that battery's negative terminal hooked to the other 6V battery's positive terminal, and that battery's negative terminal grounded) , they would essentially function as a 12V system, but would only have the amperage of one of the 6V batteries.
If the 6V batteries were wired in parallel (both positives go to the starter solenoid, both negatives are grounded), so the system would still be 6V, but the amperage would double.
My thought was to use 2 small 12 volt batteries, like 650 CCA, use a short cable from one battery to the terminal on the other battery cable end, positive to positive, negative to negative. I'll have to check battery prices to compare cost. trying to get away from removing the hood to replace battery when it goes bad, but with any luck, a new battery should outlast me.
 
My thought was to use 2 small 12 volt batteries, like 650 CCA, use a short cable from one battery to the terminal on the other battery cable end, positive to positive, negative to negative. I'll have to check battery prices to compare cost. trying to get away from removing the hood to replace battery when it goes bad, but with any luck, a new battery should outlast me.
I'm liking that plan!
 

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