TED20 rebuild

[Tp1987]

Hi all just after some advice on the rebuild I’m doing

I rescued the tractor from a hedge where it had stood for 20 years or more, managed to free up the engine and start it but soon discovered water in the oil. Decided to go ahead with a full rebuild as suspected the liner seals.

ive now got the engine out and on a stand to do the rebuild but discovered a crack in the water jacket between cylinders 2 and 3. I’m hoping this shouldn’t matter as it’s not A critical sealing face but would appreciate some advice!

On another note what is the best way to clean up the block face? I’m reluctant to use sandpaper ! I’ve now got the studs out and having the head itself skimmed by a local machine shop so just wanted to clean up the block face a bit better before putting back together

many thanks photos below

 

[Tom H.]

This is a comm problem with the TO30 blocks. If you can, you can drill and then tap for a bolt under the crack. Look up pinning block on this site. I have had a local machine shop do blocks for me.

 

[Mule Meat]

Nylon brushes with a 1/4" shank are great for cleaning up metal surfaces without damage. Comes in a few different grits. I use them to clean the inside of aluminum rims when applying stick on wheel weights. I buy them in bulk at harbor freight along with 4" flapper disc for an angle grinder. Flapper disc are good for cleaning metal also. They are more aggressive and will remove metal. I use them for cleaning the bead seats on rusted corroded aluminum and steel wheels.

 

[Jim L WA]

This is a comm problem with the TO30 blocks. If you can, you can drill and then tap for a bolt under the crack. Look up pinning block on this site. I have had a local machine shop do blocks for me.

Tom, I thought that the cracks that the TO series engines got were on the bottom end near the main bearing journals. TP1997's photo of his TED20 is on the upper end just under the head. I don't know, but it looks like that might not be a big deal.

 

[Bruce(OR)]

So the crack separates the water from the water. So what happens if the water mixes with the water?
Now if water was to mix with oil, you might have a problem or a bigger problem if the oil was to mix with the water.
Generally however, oil mixing with oil isn't a bad thing unless the oil that is being mixed is contaminated on one side or a different viscosity.
So that must be the problem that the water mixing with the water is a different nature on one side of that crack in regards to the other side.
Now the proper way to repair this is to increase the depths of your wallet prior to proceeding with repairs.
So take a pair of scissors and cut the bottom out of your wallet so that there will be no problem with a bottomless supply of finances in keeping the water mixing with the water.
I wish you the best of luck with your genuine endeavor in regards to water separation.

 

[Jim L WA]

So the crack separates the water from the water. So what happens if the water mixes with the water?
Now if water was to mix with oil, you might have a problem or a bigger problem if the oil was to mix with the water.
Generally however, oil mixing with oil isn't a bad thing unless the oil that is being mixed is contaminated on one side or a different viscosity.
So that must be the problem that the water mixing with the water is a different nature on one side of that crack in regards to the other side.
Now the proper way to repair this is to increase the depths of your wallet prior to proceeding with repairs.
So take a pair of scissors and cut the bottom out of your wallet so that there will be no problem with a bottomless supply of finances in keeping the water mixing with the water.
I wish you the best of luck with your genuine endeavor in regards to water separation.

Excellent suggestion

 

[Tom H.]

Tom, I thought that the cracks that the TO series engines got were on the bottom end near the main bearing journals. TP1997's photo of his TED20 is on the upper end just under the head. I don't know, but it looks like that might not be a big deal.

The cracks can happen at top and bottom webs. I had a Massey Ferguson dealer about 45 minutes from me and the shop guy was very good at drilling, tapping and bolting across the cracks. Haven’t had a block worked on for over ten years now. Hope one of the younger guys got trained and keep these old girls going.

Tom

 

[Tp1987]

Thanks all , not worth getting too worried about it by the sounds of things!

Next issue , I’ve now thoroughly cleaned liner seats and installed the new figure of 8 liner gaskets and new liners. Test fitted one set dry and measured out perfectly. Annoyingly, I then used a second set (being ultra safe as I slightly twisted the first set when removing), the measurements of this set were ever so slightly thinner (typical) and I’ve now got perfect .002 thousands protrusion around all cylinders but 1 low spot on 1 side of cylinders 2 and 3 where I would say the liner is level using a feeler gauge.

i know the answer would really be to remove and refit 2 sets or a different set of seals….BUT this will mean freeing up the loctite 515 I’ve fitted the liners in with and not sure how easy that will be !

question is - am I being too fussy here, how critical is this? I’m aware it’s a tractor not a race car and also think8ng the thick copper head gasket will allow for some degree of leeway. Suggestions please before I bolt the head back on

 

[Bruce(OR)]

Loctite 515?
I vaselined my o~rings, popped the liners in the holes and clamped the head down. My only horrendous mistake was working late in poor lighting, being tired and not noticing the torque wrench was adjusted to Newton meters and NOT Foot pounds.

 

[John Deere D]

Hi all just after some advice on the rebuild I’m doing

I rescued the tractor from a hedge where it had stood for 20 years or more, managed to free up the engine and start it but soon discovered water in the oil. Decided to go ahead with a full rebuild as suspected the liner seals.

ive now got the engine out and on a stand to do the rebuild but discovered a crack in the water jacket between cylinders 2 and 3. I’m hoping this shouldn’t matter as it’s not A critical sealing face but would appreciate some advice!

On another note what is the best way to clean up the block face? I’m reluctant to use sandpaper ! I’ve now got the studs out and having the head itself skimmed by a local machine shop so just wanted to clean up the block face a bit better before putting back together

many thanks photos below View attachment 61545

Thanks all , not worth getting too worried about it by the sounds of things!

Next issue , I’ve now thoroughly cleaned liner seats and installed the new figure of 8 liner gaskets and new liners. Test fitted one set dry and measured out perfectly. Annoyingly, I then used a second set (being ultra safe as I slightly twisted the first set when removing), the measurements of this set were ever so slightly thinner (typical) and I’ve now got perfect .002 thousands protrusion around all cylinders but 1 low spot on 1 side of cylinders 2 and 3 where I would say the liner is level using a feeler gauge.

i know the answer would really be to remove and refit 2 sets or a different set of seals….BUT this will mean freeing up the loctite 515 I’ve fitted the liners in with and not sure how easy that will be !

question is - am I being too fussy here, how critical is this? I’m aware it’s a tractor not a race car and also think8ng the thick copper head gasket will allow for some degree of leeway. Suggestions please before I bolt the head back on

Here is pic of one of my TEA 20 rebuilds.. Yes this is not the same as a T02...T030 Engine block. The TEA sries are made by Standard Engine in England.

Hi all just after some advice on the rebuild I’m doing

I rescued the tractor from a hedge where it had stood for 20 years or more, managed to free up the engine and start it but soon discovered water in the oil. Decided to go ahead with a full rebuild as suspected the liner seals.

ive now got the engine out and on a stand to do the rebuild but discovered a crack in the water jacket between cylinders 2 and 3. I’m hoping this shouldn’t matter as it’s not A critical sealing face but would appreciate some advice!

On another note what is the best way to clean up the block face? I’m reluctant to use sandpaper ! I’ve now got the studs out and having the head itself skimmed by a local machine shop so just wanted to clean up the block face a bit better before putting back together

many thanks photos below View attachment 61545

Your engine is nothing like a T0 30 or T0 20 Engine block. Your engine was made in England by Standard engine company.If you do not have adequate LINER Strand off...your head gasket shall leak....as well the bottom gasket in the Engine block counter bore can leak. Pic is of a TEA20 Engine rebuild.The HEAD MUST drive he LINER down evenly onto the lower gaskets,into the bottom block castling counter bores.

 

[Tp1987]

Thanks , yes mine is the Standard British engine. That all makes sense, ive got protrusion all round 4 sides of each liner from all but 1 corner of 2 of the liners where it is slightly lower (level) i wondered if these 2 low spots will even out when I torque head down properly and I’ll “loose” this minor imperfection with the gasket?

I’m loathed to remove liners now and try another set of liner gaskets as set in with loctite ! I’ve done a water test on the block and no leaks with the liners held down with bolts, hoping this means I may be ok!?

 

[John Deere D]

Thanks , yes mine is the Standard British engine. That all makes sense, ive got protrusion all round 4 sides of each liner from all but 1 corner of 2 of the liners where it is slightly lower (level) i wondered if these 2 low spots will even out when I torque head down properly and I’ll “loose” this minor imperfection with the gasket?

I’m loathed to remove liners now and try another set of liner gaskets as set in with loctite ! I’ve done a water test on the block and no leaks with the liners held down with bolts, hoping this means I may be ok!?

Yes....Install Piston assemblies...Install Head....Retorque Head after engine coolant reaches what ever the Thermostat is set at...

 

[John Deere D]

Thanks , yes mine is the Standard British engine. That all makes sense, ive got protrusion all round 4 sides of each liner from all but 1 corner of 2 of the liners where it is slightly lower (level) i wondered if these 2 low spots will even out when I torque head down properly and I’ll “loose” this minor imperfection with the gasket?

I’m loathed to remove liners now and try another set of liner gaskets as set in with loctite ! I’ve done a water test on the block and no leaks with the liners held down with bolts, hoping this means I may be ok!?

The Siamese gaskets that are between the bottom flange of the wet Liners and the counter bores of the Engine block. What color were they? Were they metal,or some type of fiber ? I have seen both types. What was the Locktite product you used ? Product #?
Thanks

 

[Tp1987]

The Siamese gaskets that are between the bottom flange of the wet Liners and the counter bores of the Engine block. What color were they? Were they metal,or some type of fiber ? I have seen both types. What was the Locktite product you used ? Product #?
Thanks

Metal , a light grey (so not copper) then coated in loctite 515 flange sealant which in fairness seems to have worked well - water tested block with towel underneath over night and water in block (liners held down with bolts and washers), no leaks at all

 

[John Deere D]

Metal , a light grey (so not copper) then coated in loctite 515 flange sealant which in fairness seems to have worked well - water tested block with towel underneath over night and water in block (liners held down with bolts and washers), no leaks at all

I'm quite familiar with Locktie 515......Its anaerobic.

 

[Tp1987]

Hi again , crankshaft oil seal question please?! Ive seen videos of installing this with the sump on and sliding it in place with grease although having great trouble getting the seal in the tight space without damaging it ! I’ve got the engine out on a stand is it easier to remove sump again and big end bearing carrier and drop it in with the pistons all in situ? Advice appreciated , should have dome this whilst rebuilding but forgot! Thanks

 

[John Deere D]

Hi again , crankshaft oil seal question please?! Ive seen videos of installing this with the sump on and sliding it in place with grease although having great trouble getting the seal in the tight space without damaging it ! I’ve got the engine out on a stand is it easier to remove sump again and big end bearing carrier and drop it in with the pistons all in situ? Advice appreciated , should have dome this whilst rebuilding but forgot! Thanks

Pic of my TEA20.......A damaged REAR Crank Oil SEAL will cost you $$$'s.......Oil and clutch is not good. I would NOT take a chance on a short cut installing a REAR CRANK OIL SEAL given the engine is not attached to the Transmission.

 

[Tp1987]

Thanks - did it your way in the end ! Those rope seals were a bind !! Anyway job done and agree it doesn’t make sense trying to fit it without removing big end bearing

 

[Tp1987]

Can anyone please give me the bolt sizes / lengths for the bell housing to engine ? I seem to be missing 2 of these. I know some are longer than others so even just the width would be helpful! Many thanks