Cracked engine block

[Tp1987]

Got to the end of A full rebuild and discovered I’ve got a crack in the block just behind carb where oil breather pipe enters, and radiator fluid leaking through very slightly. Looks like a previous repair has been done at some point but now wondering if this is salvageable with grinding out and JB Weld or is it a case of scrapping the block!?

suggestions welcome I’m tempted to try the fix as it’s only slight drips and the oil is clean nothing leaking into it, frustrating as the rebuild has meant it’s now running smooth as ever!

 

[Fixingfarmer]

As long as the water isn’t getting in the oil patch and paint away. Sand it down look like nobody’s been there when your done the previous job doesn’t look too bad. Probably can have it done tommorow afternoon before it gets cold even. Glass half full! Runs good!

 

[Jim L WA]

As long as the water isn’t getting in the oil patch and paint away. Sand it down look like nobody’s been there when your done the previous job doesn’t look too bad. Probably can have it done tommorow afternoon before it gets cold even. Glass half full! Runs good!

Yep, you've got nothing to loose except some of your time and some J.B. Weld. Good luck and let us know how it went.

 

[Tp1987]

Thanks both so today I’ve ground out the area with a small die grinder (pics below) sealed it with JB Weld Steelstik (at the same time wondering if I’d be best using the two pack epoxy!) but result, it sealed fine and ran for 15 mins with no sign of any water.

Bad news is it’s now leaking slightly the other end of the crack beside the brass drain tap this block has certainly been patched heavily in the past but reluctant to take any more of the original repair out that i need to. I’ll give the second area the same treatment and try again. I’d like ideally to change the block but they’re hard to come by and if this will last another 10 years tempted to call it fixed. See pics below. I’ll update when I’ve given it a proper run up to temperature a few times!

 

[stevieb49829]

The problem with using the putty is it isn't thin enough to force into a crack. Sort of like packing grease into a wheel bearing. If you can, chase the crack just a bit with a dremel tool to v it out a bit, then force some 2-part JB weld into the v and crack. Is there still coolant in the block? It will work better if you drain the coolant and heat up the crack with a propane torch to dry it out, before packing in the JB. Is there any kind of stress on that banjo fitting that is helping to recrack it? Steve

 

[Tp1987]

Thanks Steve - yes agree the putty isn’t quite liquid enough , I did drain the block and then hot air gun to dry it out followed by cleaning out the crack with a die grinder, and then clean throughly with brake cleaner and airline before putting putty in. It does seem to be holding in that place (just leaking by the brass tap now!) but if it fails I’ll try with the Weld Paste instead

 

[Jim L WA]

I had a crack on my Ford 2N block. I ground a V all along the crack and filled it with the two pack J.B. Weld. You have to let that stuff cure for 24 hours. Mine has never leaked. But in my case is was just a crack not a hole like yours.

 

[stevieb49829]

If that is a true banjo fitting, there should be a copper compression washer on either side of the brass fitting; against the block, and under the bolt head. So it takes a really flat surface on the block, and probably some new washers if they are squished bad. steve