2N Manifold Stud Removal Help

[BDevlin]

Folks,

I need to remove at least two of the manifold studs on a 2N. The threads at the manifold end are so deteriorated I can’t torque the nuts enough to seal the gaskets.

What I’m looking for are recommendations/suggestions on how to remove those studs without breaking them. My fear is I’ll break one and then need to pull the head for a trip to a machine shop.

If the answer is it’s not a job for a shade tree mechanic, and I should get the tractor to an actual shop, I can live with that.

Thanks,
Bill

 

[Powered By IH]

My fear is I’ll break one and then need to pull the head for a trip to a machine shop.

Well, think of it this way:
Option A: Send the block out to the machine shop, pay for the services, and don't worry about it.
Option B: Try to get them out, best case scenario they both come out. Worst case one or both studs break and the block still goes to the machine shop.
See what I'm getting at? Either way the end result is the same, so no hurt in trying.
Good luck

 

[BDevlin]

Well, think of it this way:
Option A: Send the head out to the machine shop, pay for the services, and don't worry about it.
Option B: Try to get them out, best case scenario they both come out. Worst case one or both studs break and the head still goes to the machine shop.
See what I'm getting at? Either way the end result is the same, so no hurt in trying.
Good luck

Thanks, I see your logic and don't disagree. It's just to avoid the machine shop route I'm looking for tips on how to get them out if they don't simply back out. In my mind it's heat, maybe tapping the sides when they cool, and at some point maybe penetrating oil. Maybe even more than one round. But I've been wrong many times.

 

[Don B.]

Can you get the manifold off? Are studs broken? Enough sticking out to get a nut on? (Even if it doesn't thread on that's ok)
Weld the end of nut, let cool a bit and put a wrench on it. If enough to get vise grips on, heat, put vise grips for r small pipe wrench on and see if it moves. (hand held propane bottle torch won't be enough, mapp gas might)

 

[Don B.]

Where located? A member here in your area might be able to help

 

[Gary(Stoneboro)]

Folks,

I need to remove at least two of the manifold studs on a 2N. The threads at the manifold end are so deteriorated I can’t torque the nuts enough to seal the gaskets.

What I’m looking for are recommendations/suggestions on how to remove those studs without breaking them. My fear is I’ll break one and then need to pull the head for a trip to a machine shop.

If the answer is it’s not a job for a shade tree mechanic, and I should get the tractor to an actual shop, I can live with that.

Thanks,
Bill

This is a flathead engine. The manifold mounts to the engine block, not to the head.

 

[BDevlin]

Where located? A member here in your area might be able to help

I’m just west of Fort Worth TX. I suspect there are several shops in the area. I just haven’t looked yet. There’s a reasonable fair chance my car club contacts would know of some.

The studs are intact so there won’t be a problem gripping them. I don’t have a welder to weld a nut on the ends. The threads are so shot I doubt any kind of jam nut scenario would work. Mapp gas looks to be readily available.

 

[BobTx]

Original 2n Ford?? My old Ford is a flat head, the manifold is attached to the block. It won't cost any money to take the head to the machine shop, but it won't do much good. lol BobTx

 

[BDevlin]

This is a flathead engine. The manifold mounts to the engine block, not to the head.

Yes, I mislead folks. The studs are in the block.

 

[Don B.]

This is a flathead engine. The manifold mounts to the engine block, not to the head.

That does not matter. Same thing applies on the "how to" remove studs. I also have an induction heater that heats up just the stud, works like a microwave oven but won't work at all if stud is broken off flush

 

[JD2N]

Heat the studs hot, let them cool and repeat a few times then try and thread them out with a vice grip. An induction heater is very useful for this kind of heating but an oxygen torch will work as well. Map gas might do it but not as likely. This is how we it on semis if we have them long like your saying. Welding a nut is an option if you have a welder. We will also drill them if it’s broken flat or recessed but heat is the preferred method.

 

[Non-farmer]

Buy a stud puller. They're not very expensive. Much better choice than vise grips imo. And yes, heat them first, multiple times if you like.

 

[Don B.]

I've welded nuts on flush broken studs and bolts before and walked them right out

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Just go ahead and twist them off . Get the manifold out of the way. Saw them off flush with the block. Now the key operation is, spend some time, hours if you have to, to perfectly center punch for the drilling operation ; once you're off center , you'll never get it straight again without an end mill. Because ultimately, you're gonna have to drill them out. And if you break off an EZ-OUT in there, then you'll really have a mess.

If you had some means of constructing a jig over the stud with a drill bushing, a double cut end mill of the correct tap-drill size of the stud would be the way to go. If you get close enough, the remains of the threads will come out like a heli-coil insert.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If you want to try heat, don't heat the block with no water in it.

 

[Don B.]

Just go ahead and twist them off . Get the manifold out of the way. Saw them off flush with the block. Now the key operation is, spend some time, hours if you have to, to perfectly center punch for the drilling operation ; once you're off center , you'll never get it straight again without an end mill. Because ultimately, you're gonna have to drill them out. And if you break off an EZ-OUT in there, then you'll really have a mess.

If you had some means of constructing a jig over the stud with a drill bushing, a double cut end mill of the correct tap-drill size of the stud would be the way to go. If you get close enough, the remains of the threads will come out like a heli-coil insert.

This would be my last resort

 

[John Deere D]

Folks,

I need to remove at least two of the manifold studs on a 2N. The threads at the manifold end are so deteriorated I can’t torque the nuts enough to seal the gaskets.

What I’m looking for are recommendations/suggestions on how to remove those studs without breaking them. My fear is I’ll break one and then need to pull the head for a trip to a machine shop.

If the answer is it’s not a job for a shade tree mechanic, and I should get the tractor to an actual shop, I can live with that.

Thanks,
Bill

I've had 100% success with solving the above problem...
clean stud protruding with wire brush.
Place a size for size washer over the stud...
Weld washer to stud......
Allow washer to cool....
Weld a nut to the washer..........
Allow to cool....
Remove stud........

Bob...

 

[Don B.]

I do the same but the intermediate step of a washer has never helped but has hampered success

 

[Non-farmer]

I don’t have a welder to weld a nut on the ends.

Either some people didn't read this, or they're choosing to ignore it.

 

[Lynn Patrick]

These work sometimes: