Adding a hydraulic breaker to Case 680E backhoe

[Cowboy JP]

Greetings all,

I am currently working on adding a breaker to my Case 680E backhoe loader. I got a good deal on a Toft 750 locally and really needed this for the hard digging I've been doing on the property. Rental fees were getting out of hand. That said I'm a seeking advice on the best way to go about adding the breaker to the backhoe. I do not have an extendahoe unfortunately. I'm also not sure if I have a power beyond port, not sure if that was a thing on this particular model or not or how common it was on the 680E machines. So with that in mind I figured I have two options.
1. Use the curl function to power the hammer (less than ideal but gets me running quick) and simply route both hammer lines through the curl function. Or plumb the return line back to the hydraulic return line with a T fitting somewhere. Some folks say this is far preferable and will prevent damage to the backhoe spool valves. Not sure how accurate that is.
2. Would be to plumb in some sort of diverter that allows me to switch from the curl function to the hammer with a flip of a switch. I have little knowledge or experience of this technology and am not even sure if it's possible with my machine.

Any advice, tips, tricks or feedback would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
JP

 

[Fritz Maurer]

With a machine that nice, id be looking to add another factory valve segment to the stack, especially for the flow requirements for a breaker, rather than cobble something together. Then all the controls will be available from case or a wrecked machine.

 

[Cowboy JP]

With a machine that nice, id be looking to add another factory valve segment to the stack, especially for the flow requirements for a breaker, rather than cobble something together. Then all the controls will be available from case or a wrecked machine.

Hi Fritz,

Thanks for the reply, I think that makes the most sense. Are you talking about replacing the factory backhoe valve stack with one that has an extra port for the hammer? or maybe replacing it with an Extendahoe valve stack so I can tie into those?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Hi Fritz,

Thanks for the reply, I think that makes the most sense. Are you talking about replacing the factory backhoe valve stack with one that has an extra port for the hammer? or maybe replacing it with an Extendahoe valve stack so I can tie into those?

The whole stack should be in segments to where you just buy another segment from a junkyard and add to it with longer studs. You don't actually replace anything.

I have never seen a 680E up close, but that is the way 95% of other MFR's do it.....

 

[Nordic]

Hi Fritz,

Thanks for the reply, I think that makes the most sense. Are you talking about replacing the factory backhoe valve stack with one that has an extra port for the hammer? or maybe replacing it with an Extendahoe valve stack so I can tie into those?

I think Fritz has very good input. I'm now on my third Case 680, currently the H model, my first one was the 680E. While not exactly practical, but if you have a third valve for the front bucket to handle a clam/4 in one bucket you could try using that valve bank. It would involve longer hoses but less parts and labor.

 

[Cowboy JP]

I was under the impression the whole backhoe valve segment was one piece at least that is what I have seen in the service manual and the parts I have found online as well as in talking with the local "kind of" a case dealer and they were not much help and had no interest in looking longer than they had to for "parts for an old obsolete machine". I sadly do not have the clamshell bucket valves either. It's a fairly basic machine and now I'm really kicking myself for not getting and extendahoe machine like I was originally trying to get! I was thinking of perhaps adding a diverter valve assembly to it from Summit and then maybe plumbing the return line of the hammer directly to the tank return line from the backhoe valve assembly another fellow on the heavy equipment forum suggested that because the hammers don't like back pressure. My hydraulic guy seemed to think it would be fine running through the backhoe valve so I don't know what to do! However if it is easier to simply add another stack to it I think that would be the way to go. Plus it would look clean and I like the idea of that. Poor girl had some leaks before I got her so excuse the mess under there. She's also been working hard as of late.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

You mentioned tying into the curl circuit before. Only problem with that (among other things) is you would have to be certain that the bucket cylinder is held in a locked position while operating the hammer.

If you select the " curl in" line to power the hammer, for example, then the curl valve will have the opposite end of the cylinder open to the reservoir, and then there is no way to hold the cylinder steady. Your diverter valve will have to incorporate both lines, to insure the the bucket cylinder stays locked.

Another downside to hitchhiking on an existing circuit is it may work against you in the future if you get another hydraulic attachment that needs to be powered while crowding (and curling) , such as a hydraulic auger or vibrating plate.

It looks expensive on the surface, but by going with factory parts, you will have two lines running up the boom and no other oddball fittings, valves or hoses (to say nothing of whatever operating system required in the cab) , and have the added benefit of having full power, or at least 95% of it, to the attachment while performing other functions. What you can do simultaneously is limited only by the GPM of the pump.

I don't see how a factory remote could hurt the resale value, either. If that clean valve is any indication of the condition of the rest of the machine, you have a nice unit there.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

In case is misunderstood your first sentence, that is most definitely a segmented valve. The nuts on either end are what's holding the whole mess together. You would also need longer through-rods to add a segment.

 

[Cowboy JP]

In case is misunderstood your first sentence, that is most definitely a segmented valve. The nuts on either end are what's holding the whole mess together. You would also need longer through-rods to add a segment.

Hi Fritz,
Okay, now that all makes perfect sense!! I appreciate the information. I'll reach out to the case dealership again and see if I could get my hands on another segment for this machine and try to do this properly. Then, it is as simple as tying the hammer into that segment and running the hammer? That almost sounds too easy and too good to be true!

Kindest regards,
Jeremiah

 

[Nordic]

Hi Fritz,
Okay, now that all makes perfect sense!! I appreciate the information. I'll reach out to the case dealership again and see if I could get my hands on another segment for this machine and try to do this properly. Then, it is as simple as tying the hammer into that segment and running the hammer? That almost sounds too easy and too good to be true!

Kindest regards,
Jeremiah

If you have no success going to the Case dealer for a valve segment and you live in the US, you should be able to get a whole valve bank for an extendahoe that is being wrecked out. For the age of these machines they have to be around?? You might even come across another 680E, G or H with the hydraulics you need and you can sell the one you have. Because I've had several of these machines I guess I'm partial to the benefits they have.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

It's unclear whether you have a parts book, if not, you should get one. Then can offer different views that may be missing in the service manual. Make sure it covers your serial number range.

 

[MeanGene1]

My 680E had a breaker on it before I got it- a friend had bought it with the breaker on it. There is a notch cut in the floorboard, and I remember hoses running across the platform and out the back. It spun a main bearing, and my friend happened on to a decent 680H, and they swapped the breaker on to that tractor. No idea where it was plumbed into the tractors

 

[Case Nutty 1660]

Greetings all,

I am currently working on adding a breaker to my Case 680E backhoe loader. I got a good deal on a Toft 750 locally and really needed this for the hard digging I've been doing on the property. Rental fees were getting out of hand. That said I'm a seeking advice on the best way to go about adding the breaker to the backhoe. I do not have an extendahoe unfortunately. I'm also not sure if I have a power beyond port, not sure if that was a thing on this particular model or not or how common it was on the 680E machines. So with that in mind I figured I have two options.
1. Use the curl function to power the hammer (less than ideal but gets me running quick) and simply route both hammer lines through the curl function. Or plumb the return line back to the hydraulic return line with a T fitting somewhere. Some folks say this is far preferable and will prevent damage to the backhoe spool valves. Not sure how accurate that is.
2. Would be to plumb in some sort of diverter that allows me to switch from the curl function to the hammer with a flip of a switch. I have little knowledge or experience of this technology and am not even sure if it's possible with my machine.

Any advice, tips, tricks or feedback would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
JP

we sold Ingersoll breakers in the 60's and 70's for CASE hoes,, we always installed a separate control valve that you mounted beside the foot rests, they had a "button" and spring return valve, step on it the breaker ran, let off it stopped, worked great,, but Boy are they super hard on pins and bushings,, we set one 580CK up with one to demo, 8 hrs use it had noticeable wear already,, I rented few units here for rock breaking both were CAT units WOW was they sloppy lol just saying you will see wear fast if you use it much,, 680 has plenty of weight and flow to use one very well of course