Pulled starter out, to see broken bendix gear in half

ErikL97

Member
Location
North Carolina
Pulled the starter off my ford 8n to find my starter gear was broken in half and down in behind the ring gear.

What's next time to spilt in half, I have a new starter on hand, or is there any other way to get down in there to get it.

What is required for splitting in half, gonna probably one man army this thing. And really hope I don't have to get more parts at this moment (just joking) I'm ready for this thing to be plowing my garden 😆😆
 

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Pulled the starter off my ford 8n to find my starter gear was broken in half and down in behind the ring gear.

What's next time to spilt in half, I have a new starter on hand, or is there any other way to get down in there to get it.

What is required for splitting in half, gonna probably one man army this thing. And really hope I don't have to get more parts at this moment (just joking) I'm ready for this thing to be plowing my garden 😆😆
In most cases one can leave the parts in the bell housing and be just fine till it is time to do a clutch job
 
Some don't cause damage, its true.
But some do.
I've had 2 8ns with damage.
Found a hole under one, and made it into an inspection hole with a removable a metal cover plate.
Didn't see the cracks on this one ( from the outside) sure saw them when it needed splitting to fix a "jump out of reverse" repair.
It's gambling to just leave em.
 

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It usually is a pretty easy job but sometimes you do have to fight them a little I've seen them rusted or corroded in pretty tight so it can be a little tough to get them broke loose. I have also seen a couple bell housings broken like in Soaked's photo.
 
Here is a staged pic with sidemount engine on a stand, showing flywheel clearance with no clutch.
Never tried fishing with a lighted magnetic inspection camera...
Edit to add second pic
 

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I went through this with a 40 9N with a loader. I had a strong magnet to pick up to Bendix but never could find a hole or angle big enough for it to come through. I spent more time trying to avoid spitting the tractor than actually splitting it. Only needed about 3" for the gear to fall out.
 
Thank y'all for the information. I installed the new starter and the tractor is running,

I'm on to the next step now which was taking the gas tank off to clean what I could get
 
Did you end up fishing the broken teeth/bendix out from the bellhousing? They may sit in there fine and not cause any grief. But you wouldn't want them bouncing up into the flywheel teeth while it's running and causing grief. Probably best to get them out of there.

In one of your other posts, you mentioned you already have the fuel tank off for cleaning. Getting the hood off is the hardest part of splitting an N. If you've got it off, I'd take the extra hour or two with a couple rolling jacks (or rather: one rolling jack and one fixed one) and split it to get those pieces out of there. As long as you keep both halves well-supported and level, you may not even need to split it fully: Keep the jacks raised and both halves level, put a couple longer bolts in place of some of the stock ones, and slide it apart on those long bolts a few inches. They'll keep it aligned for easier re-assembly, and a couple inches is probably all you need to reach in there with a pickup tool and pull the pieces out.
 
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Did you end up fishing the broken teeth/bendix out from the bellhousing? They may sit in there fine and not cause any grief. But you wouldn't want them bouncing up into the flywheel teeth while it's running and causing grief. Probably best to get them out of there.

In one of your other posts, you mentioned you already have the fuel tank off for cleaning. Getting the hood off is the hardest part of splitting an N. If you've got it off, I'd take the extra hour or two with a couple rolling jacks (or rather: one rolling jack and one fixed one) and split it to get those pieces out of there. As long as you keep both halves well-supported and level, you may not even need to split it fully: Keep the jacks raised and both halves level, put a couple longer bolts in place of some of the stock ones, and slide it apart on those long bolts a few inches. They'll keep it aligned for easier re-assembly, and a couple inches is probably all you need to reach in there with a pickup tool and pull the pieces out.
I did leave the piece in there for now, I haven't heard anything really rattling or anything since I installed the new starter, I did get the hood off for the fuel tank, and yes I had trouble with it but I did however got it off by myself, haven't put it back together yet, figured I would rewire my head lights when I get everything back together. The hood was easy once I put a piece of wood up under the steering wheel side to allow me to get up under the hood while standing on the side of the tractor and I was able to move it forward and up at the same time, but I got it off 😁
 
I did leave the piece in there for now, I haven't heard anything really rattling or anything since I installed the new starter, I did get the hood off for the fuel tank, and yes I had trouble with it but I did however got it off by myself, haven't put it back together yet, figured I would rewire my head lights when I get everything back together. The hood was easy once I put a piece of wood up under the steering wheel side to allow me to get up under the hood while standing on the side of the tractor and I was able to move it forward and up at the same time, but I got it off 😁
You're 70% of the way there with the hood off … go ahead and do the necessary, and you'll not have to worry about it any more.
 
You're 70% of the way there with the hood off … go ahead and do the necessary, and you'll not have to worry about it any more.
It's a work in progress is there anyway I could get something to run wires through like I've seen metal tubes I just don't like wires dangling just want to keep it nice and neat
 
What wires are you talking about specifically? The spark plug wires (and wires to the coil and generator) run through a metal tube atop the engine:

IMG_9293.JPG


Screenshot 2025-12-28 at 3.06.56 PM.jpg


For the main wiring harness, I used zip-ties to neaten up the wiring and keep it from flopping around (tractor pics are from the recent rewire of my '50 front mount).

Wiring to the head, tail and work lights follows this diagram:

TXqFYsih.jpg


If you use the correct clips, the installation is neat and won't be hanging loose anywhere (I used a woven loom to protect the wires):

IMG_9669.JPG


IMG_9670.JPG
 
What wires are you talking about specifically? The spark plug wires (and wires to the coil and generator) run through a metal tube atop the engine:

View attachment 145547

View attachment 145548

For the main wiring harness, I used zip-ties to neaten up the wiring and keep it from flopping around (tractor pics are from the recent rewire of my '50 front mount).

Wiring to the head, tail and work lights follows this diagram:

View attachment 145549

If you use the correct clips, the installation is neat and won't be hanging loose anywhere (I used a woven loom to protect the wires):

View attachment 145550

View attachment 145551
I like that that's clean, yes main concern was spark plug wires and the alternator wire, and was gonna redo the headlight wires was looking for a place to tie them up, did you make the metal pipe your self?
 
I like that that's clean, yes main concern was spark plug wires and the alternator wire, and was gonna redo the headlight wires was looking for a place to tie them up, did you make the metal pipe your self?
No, that's a factory part. If your tractor is missing it, I would expect you can buy a replacement.

This site sells the clips used to attach the headlight wiring to the underside of the hood.
 
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