Oliver 88 Row Crop won't go into either reverse

[J.Nyberg]

Just bought my first Oliver tractor, a '49 88 Row Crop wide front with F11B loader. It will not go into reverse in either range, I can't feel a detent... I can't even feel gears bumping when I push the stick where the reverses should be. It goes into all the forward gears no problem. Pointers on where to start looking? Or common problems? Also there is a case of some kind with two sticks (both have been snapped off at the boots) centered in the foot area. what is that? I'm going to buy a repair manual soon but thought I would ask the world of experience.

 

[rrlund]

Could be, maybe, a broken shift rail. I broke one in my 1550. That one would go in to reverse and wouldn't come out, but it could be broken on the other side of the fork maybe.

 

[scootergmc]

Just bought my first Oliver tractor, a '49 88 Row Crop wide front with F11B loader. It will not go into reverse in either range, I can't feel a detent... I can't even feel gears bumping when I push the stick where the reverses should be. It goes into all the forward gears no problem. Pointers on where to start looking? Or common problems? Also there is a case of some kind with two sticks (both have been snapped off at the boots) centered in the foot area. what is that? I'm going to buy a repair manual soon but thought I would ask the world of experience.

The box thing with two broken levers is the hydraulic /pump unit. FYI, there is a "long" PTO shaft that runs from the actual rear end PTO all the way to the flywheel hub on the engine, and through the pump drive. If you want to pull the engine/hydraulic unit etc., you need to pull this shaft first. Youtube can be your friend.

 

[greg krush]

Could be, maybe, a broken shift rail. I broke one in my 1550. That one would go in to reverse and wouldn't come out, but it could be broken on the other side of the fork maybe.

Possibly broken rail but I would look at the detent balls that might be rusted, the balls and guides are in front of the transmission, more in the engine compartment, there are 3 rails under a cover if you do not have an endless belt pully or under the belt pulley drive if you have one.

good advice from scooter if you are not familiar with olivers. easy to pull PTO shaft, remove tranny cover and see what you have going on.

 

[Gary Mitchell]

Just bought my first Oliver tractor, a '49 88 Row Crop wide front with F11B loader. It will not go into reverse in either range, I can't feel a detent... I can't even feel gears bumping when I push the stick where the reverses should be. It goes into all the forward gears no problem. Pointers on where to start looking? Or common problems? Also there is a case of some kind with two sticks (both have been snapped off at the boots) centered in the foot area. what is that? I'm going to buy a repair manual soon but thought I would ask the world of experience.

Could be bent a fork. You might pull the PTO shaft out a ways and remove the hydrolic unit for a real good look.

 

[tom upton]

Just bought my first Oliver tractor, a '49 88 Row Crop wide front with F11B loader. It will not go into reverse in either range, I can't feel a detent... I can't even feel gears bumping when I push the stick where the reverses should be. It goes into all the forward gears no problem. Pointers on where to start looking? Or common problems? Also there is a case of some kind with two sticks (both have been snapped off at the boots) centered in the foot area. what is that? I'm going to buy a repair manual soon but thought I would ask the world of experience.

Any info from previous owner when you bought it? There are 3 shift rails/rods of which gear shift lever end nub goes into one rail at a time. center one is for shifting between the upper and lower neautrals and the right hand rail as you are sitting on the tractor operates both reverses as well as 2nd and 4th gears. As you say it goes into all forward gears fine, it could be something up with detent block balls stopping that rail from moving back as someone else had mentioned OR rail was not in the correct position when put together and shift lever is actually going into the wrong slot in shift rail? ( Thats why it would be nice to know if PO had it apart?) Other remote possibility is something loose/moved on your reverse idler gear shaft. I cant see how a broken shift rail would allow you to shift fine into 2nd and 4th? Relatively easy thing to try is put shifter into either neutral, remove shifter. ( two bolts) A word of caution there are 2 springs and there cups that reside under the shifter base that will fall into the tranny if you are not carefull . Using a suitable pry bar into one of the recesses in rail you can try to move right hand shift rail back into reverse. Maybe try working it ahead and back to free up? If it wont move back into reverse you are into pulling cover off, etc. to see whats going on. Good luck with your 88. One of my favorite tractors.

 

[tom upton]

Just bought my first Oliver tractor, a '49 88 Row Crop wide front with F11B loader. It will not go into reverse in either range, I can't feel a detent... I can't even feel gears bumping when I push the stick where the reverses should be. It goes into all the forward gears no problem. Pointers on where to start looking? Or common problems? Also there is a case of some kind with two sticks (both have been snapped off at the boots) centered in the foot area. what is that? I'm going to buy a repair manual soon but thought I would ask the world of experience.

Any info from previous owner when you bought it? There are 3 shift rails/rods of which gear shift lever end nub goes into one rail at a time. center one is for shifting between the upper and lower neautrals and the right hand rail as you are sitting on the tractor operates both reverses as well as 2nd and 4th gears. As you say it goes into all forward gears fine, it could be something up with detent block balls stopping that rail from moving back as someone else had mentioned OR rail was not in the correct position when put together and shift lever is actually going into the wrong slot in shift rail? ( Thats why it would be nice to know if PO had it apart?) Other remote possibility is something loose/moved on your reverse idler gear shaft. I cant see how a broken shift rail would allow you to shift fine into 2nd and 4th? Relatively easy thing to try is put shifter into either neutral, remove shifter. ( two bolts) A word of caution there are 2 springs and there cups that reside under the shifter base that will fall into the tranny if you are not carefull . Using a suitable pry bar into one of the recesses in rail you can try to move right hand shift rail back into reverse. Maybe try working it ahead and back to free up? If it wont move back into reverse you are into pulling cover off, etc. to see whats going on. Good luck with your 88. One of my favorite tractors.

 

[J.Nyberg]

Any info from previous owner when you bought it? There are 3 shift rails/rods of which gear shift lever end nub goes into one rail at a time. center one is for shifting between the upper and lower neautrals and the right hand rail as you are sitting on the tractor operates both reverses as well as 2nd and 4th gears. As you say it goes into all forward gears fine, it could be something up with detent block balls stopping that rail from moving back as someone else had mentioned OR rail was not in the correct position when put together and shift lever is actually going into the wrong slot in shift rail? ( Thats why it would be nice to know if PO had it apart?) Other remote possibility is something loose/moved on your reverse idler gear shaft. I cant see how a broken shift rail would allow you to shift fine into 2nd and 4th? Relatively easy thing to try is put shifter into either neutral, remove shifter. ( two bolts) A word of caution there are 2 springs and there cups that reside under the shifter base that will fall into the tranny if you are not carefull . Using a suitable pry bar into one of the recesses in rail you can try to move right hand shift rail back into reverse. Maybe try working it ahead and back to free up? If it wont move back into reverse you are into pulling cover off, etc. to see whats going on. Good luck with your 88. One of my favorite tractors.

PO only knew it was grandpa's old tractor. Hadn't moved in years. Could be rust in detent balls I keep hearing about? I pulled the shift tower off and found out about the springs and cups, a magnet saved me. It seemed all I could see was ok, if not worn significantly. I only investigated that far, as it was snowing at the time and I just needed the tractor off my trailer. I had my wife pull it back with a strap.

 

[John Schoenauer]

J.Nyberg congratulations on purchasing an Oliver. Most of us on here think there the best tractor made. The first thing I do when I purchase a new tractor is to purchase an operators manual and in you case I would suggest purchasing the service and parts manuals. I buy my manuals from the Floyd County Museum in Charles City, Iowa 641-228-1099. The museum received most of the manuals when the factory closed so they have a lot of information about everything from White-New Idea all the way back to Hart-Parr.

 

[GermantownGreen]

PO only knew it was grandpa's old tractor. Hadn't moved in years. Could be rust in detent balls I keep hearing about? I pulled the shift tower off and found out about the springs and cups, a magnet saved me. It seemed all I could see was ok, if not worn significantly. I only investigated that far, as it was snowing at the time and I just needed the tractor off my trailer. I had my wife pull it back with a strap.

Y tube.
That Oliver Guy, Chris Losey.
Ross the Oliver man.
66 Farm boy.
Wisconsin Oliver Nut

Chris has lots and so does Ross. Very worthwhile.

Korves Oliver parts in Illinois
Maibach parts in Ohio
Welters Farm supply, Verona Mo.

Good luck. Congratulations on your purchase. GG Wes