Gleaner A raddle chain repair

[ESVADuke]

I was going to replace the raddle chain with wooden slats with a Manchester steel one, then I thought the steel would wear the false bottom whereas the wood would wear instead and shape itself to the floor, So I decided to repair the wooden one. 7 slats were broken or missing, so chisled off the rivets and saved the end caps where I could, but missing caps for 4. I had a 3/4" piece of white oak to cut into slats, cut the ends to match the old slats. Found 13/16 x 1" steel barrel bolts 8-32 with thread lock to use in place of rivets. The caps I found as the protective clips put on 3/4" plywood to keep metal bands from digging into the wood. A slight bit shorter, but as close as I could find. Gave everything a coat of boiled linseed oil. Hope it works.

 

[centash]

Looks as good as new!

Ben

 

[Bob Bancroft]

I was going to replace the raddle chain with wooden slats with a Manchester steel one, then I thought the steel would wear the false bottom whereas the wood would wear instead and shape itself to the floor, So I decided to repair the wooden one. 7 slats were broken or missing, so chisled off the rivets and saved the end caps where I could, but missing caps for 4. I had a 3/4" piece of white oak to cut into slats, cut the ends to match the old slats. Found 13/16 x 1" steel barrel bolts 8-32 with thread lock to use in place of rivets. The caps I found as the protective clips put on 3/4" plywood to keep metal bands from digging into the wood. A slight bit shorter, but as close as I could find. Gave everything a coat of boiled linseed oil. Hope it works.

I never had any trouble with the one in the E. I had purchased it at auction for several hundred dollars. And then about doubled the initial cost of the combine by replacing most of the belts! Then I had a K2 for a short while. Then a well used F2. I was as about as far from home with it when things messed up inside. It was serious enough I had to bring it home. The metal raddle had wadded up inside. I had to cut it out. It started to rip up the floor. I don't remember how I fixed that. Local dealer had a new raddle. I think it was about $400 at the time. While working on it I discovered the problem. Some idiot had placed a trap door spring on the raddle slip clutch, such that it couldn't slip! Never had a moments trouble with it after correcting that. The F2 has been gone 17 or 18 years now, since I switched to 6 row. Time marches on.

 

[centash]

If you are combining corn, you may want to get the saddle cob shield...fits behind the saddle chain and prevents cobs from following the chain around and go under the saddle floor where they get pinched between the saddle and the floor, and then the clutch slips. Also, check your saddle floor is not bellied down, such that the centre of the saddle slat is not touching the floor when the outsides of the slats do. This also may cause cobs to get pinched.

Ben