Penetrating oil test...the ACTUAL ARTICLE

[NDIHC]

Since the 12 year old penetrating oil thread was getting pretty convoluted I figured I'd post a screenshot of the actual article to dispell the misinformation given about nuts and bolts.

 

[Non-farmer]

Good find, I came up empty searching. Now at least further complaints can be focused on what was actually involved

Happy to realize I almost missed the last part of the first column of text by scrolling incorrectly.

 

[NDIHC]

Good find, I came up empty searching. Now at least further complaints can be focused on what was actually involved

I remembered reading the article when it was new. It wasn't necessarily strictly scientific but since he had more than one sample of each product it may have some merit. And since there were no threads to distort or bolts to stretch it eliminated most variables other than if each sample wasn't equally rusted.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

Since the 12 year old penetrating oil thread was getting pretty convoluted I figured I'd post a screenshot of the actual article to dispell the misinformation given about nuts and bolts.

Well done !

 

[Butch(OH)]

Lubricant plus a thinner, to allow it to creep
There is no magic to ATF plus acetone or any penetrating oil except whatever one chooses to believe and nobody is going to change those minds. For many years we had some sort of spray can penetrating oil on the farm. One day we were changing out shovels on the cultivator and none was to be found. I went to the parts washer, dipped in pumper can in the Stoddard that was dirty with oil and grease and it worked as good as anything we had ever had in the shop and it's all I've used since.

 

[Texasmark]

Yes Kroil is expensive but cost isn't in the equation. When I was in industry the mechanical guys used Kroil. I figured that since they were making a living doing what they did, they didn't fool around with second best. I have WD, and PB Blaster in my array of rattle cans....not using WD, and usually PB on mediocre problems, but for the tough guys it's Kroil......and it has never let me down. I don't fool around mixing my own array....not like some folks brag that they get cans of alcohol, light mineral oil, and naphtha to make their own Sea Foam.

 

[Ozlander]

I'm surprised that WD-40 was almost as good as PB Blaster.

 

[bmaverick]

Its about 20 years old.

A more scientific and deeper study has been done by the Torque Test Channel. All based on SAE and ASTM standards.
Let's say, PB blaster (aka antifreeze) is a lubricant, not a penetrate in the mix.

 

[Fred Werring]

Project Farm Penetrating oil video

Project Farm Penetrating Oil 2

 

[Texasmark]

Project Farm Penetrating oil video

Project Farm Penetrating Oil 2

Well sir, I decided to watch these videos.....I just have one comment..........WOW!!!!! I surely didn't expect the results.

I want to thank you for this eye opener and I am in remorse to some extent.....I just bought another spray can of Kroil and it was up around $20.....but I will use it and then convert to the cheap stuff.

 

[Duner Wi]

I have good luck with brake clean for initial movement. Then I switch to lubricant. If you are soaking it for period of time , brake clean won't do anything. Air wrenches and brake clean work well together.

 

[NDIHC]

Liquid Wrench has been by go-to for over 20 years. I was always too cheap to buy Kroil or PB! The Traveller brand at TSC is a lot like LW...I sometimes wonder if they might be the same thing. If I need a lot and want to soak things down over a period of time I use diesel fuel mixed with a light weight oil like MMO or transmission fluid. I can put it in a squirt can and refill it several times if needed.

 

[Texasmark]

I have good luck with brake clean for initial movement. Then I switch to lubricant. If you are soaking it for period of time , brake clean won't do anything. Air wrenches and brake clean work well together.

I keep a handy supply of Brake Cleaner around the shop. It's perfect for (me in) degreasing things that you want to get the lube off...in easy to clean situations, and doesn't hurt any hurtable...... surfaces.

 

[bob p mn]

Haven't heard anybody chime about JB 80 yet, we used alot of it in the shop I worked in we bought it by the case and I was always happy with the results when using it. Now at home I still use it in my shop and try to buy it on sale when I can as the JB products are a little spendy but they always seem to do the job. I also use the ATF acetone mixture keeping it in a SureShot sprayer just got to remember to shake before using each time.

 

[NDIHC]

K&W Knock'Er Loose was some pretty good stuff too. CRC makes Freeze Off that I have used with good results too.

 

[TerryfromSWIowa]

Bought some Free All from Bomgaars that works well.

 

[Fred Werring]

Well sir, I decided to watch these videos.....I just have one comment..........WOW!!!!! I surely didn't expect the results.

I want to thank you for this eye opener and I am in remorse to some extent.....I just bought another spray can of Kroil and it was up around $20.....but I will use it and then convert to the cheap stuff.

Yeah, I like his videos. He really tries to do an honest comparison. Although I'll admit there's times (OK a lot) I just fast forward to the end for the results.

Company I retired from bought Kroil for us maintenance guys to use. My coworkers thought it was the best stuff ever, I was never that impressed.
Yeah, it worked on bolts in a factory environment, but that's not REALLY that rusty. Try it on some old farm equipment that's been sitting outside or salt corroded fasteners under a car if you want a real test.

 

[Steven Allen]

I am skeptical about the lab-engineered problem being able to accurately duplicate a real problem created by 80 years of rust, dirt, and neglect.

 

[Gary Mitchell]

Per Google search:
DIY mixes like ATF/acetone sometimes outperform commercial products like WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil, with results varying by brand and soak time, though heat is usually the most effective loosening method.
gm

 

[NDIHC]

I

I am skeptical about the lab-engineered problem being able to accurately duplicate a real problem created by 80 years of rust, dirt, and neglect.

I don't think the tests duplicate it either. I don't think anything really could. In fact, even an 80 year old piece of machinery wouldn't be a real test because to have an accurate test each bolt or part would have had to have the exact same exposure to weather, dirt and neglect as the next. I think what the tests can do is compare how each penetrant affects the rust bond on similarly oxidized nuts/bolts/pins.