John Deere 2630 Clutch Replacement Help Needed

tmel

New User
Hello Guys,

I have a 1974 John Deere 2630A.

It has gotten to the point where my clutch will not let me drive the tractor the way I would like.

The problem I am having is finding the right clutch. I have not torn the tractor apart yet. I would like to order the part before I do. The PTO is a continuous PTO and transmission has Range I and II with 4 gears each. (I am short on terminology.)

If someone on here has a similar tractor and has done a clutch already. If you could post the clutch you used or help point me the right way that would be great. Let me know if there is more information about the tractor needed.
 
The A after the 2630 model number designates your tractor has the collar shift transmission. When you say continuous PTO it means you have a two-stage clutch. You push the pedal halfway down and the tractor will stop traveling, but the PTO stays running until you push the pedal fully down. Is this correct?

If so, the link below will take you to the page of the 2630 catalog (PC1401) which shows that clutch. You can use the arrows to scroll from that page to check other parts as well.

JD PC1401

I believe you can get a complete clutch kit from this site and many others. They should know what their part numbers are if you tell them you need a two-stage (or dual) clutch kit. They may ask you which type disc you want for the traction clutch as there were options of button type or woven.

Or the pressure plate is rebuildable and the PTO clutch disc in it can be replaced while doing that. You will want to replace at least the pilot and throw-out bearings as well the clutch discs while you are doing it. Some kits include the alignment tool for the shafts; you will want to ask about that. You will want to purchase a service manual if you decide you want to replace the PTO clutch disc, for info on rebuilding and setting the pressure plate.

You don't say just why the clutch won't let you drive the tractor the way you would like. More info on that issue would be good. If you have oil inside the clutch housing and it is dripping from the weep hole under the clutch, you have more problems to be fixed.

I will ask if you have fully adjusted the clutch linkage and free play, by the manual, it can make a difference.

Do you have the tools to split the tractor to replace the clutch? There will be some hydraulic seals that will need to be replaced as lines need to be unhooked and the transmission needs to be drained.

I believe the picture below is the clutch kit YT offers that would fit your tractor, but you need to confirm that with them. It has a woven disc.

Clutch.jpg
 
Yes, that is correct, the clutch does have two stages. If I press the tractor stops halfway, and the PTO keeps running. If I push all the way in it all stops.

I am pretty mechanically inclined; this will be my first tractor clutch. I do clutches on other vehicles and whatnot.

To be honest i have not checked the linkage. But it is slipping to the point where the mower may quit spinning, but the tractor won't stall out.

I do not think the clutch has been done before on this tractor. The tractor does get run pretty hard. Mainly pulls a 15 ft batwing for cutting pastures. The tractor will also struggle pretty badly trying to pull a pasture drag. Basically, the clutch is slipping to the point where I am having to run the tractor really light.
 
If the tractor struggles to move, without the engine being pulled down and the mower quits spinning that means both clutches are in need of repair/replacement, as they are separate discs.

Does your batwing have a slip clutch on the input shaft? When the mower stops spinning is the PTO shaft still spinning or stopped? If the shaft from the tractor is still spinning at speed, the slip clutch on the mower might be slipping. I really expect you would have seen smoke and smelled burning clutch if that was the case, but best to ask.

Do you have the John Deere technical manual TM1085 for your tractor? Or a copy of that publication number?

And I advise checking the pressure plate finger settings once the pressure plate is mounted on the flywheel before joining the tractor back together.
 
Yeah the mower has slip clutches, but not on the main input only the gear boxes. I know its the tractor because I have had times where the tractor stops moving when pulling the drag but the RPM barely changes.


So I will look at doing the tractor clutch. Theres just a lot more to it so I want to make sure I got a good start before I split the tractor.
 
Like dtridess said check it over good, like sliding the disk on the splines to make sure it fits. Kits for 2550 come with the wrong disk and have to buy the right one for the tractor.
 
I gotcha, I appreciate the help. I may just have to bite the bullet and split the tractor first.

I just have a weird situation as far as shop space and how long the tractor can be apart for etc.

But I will find a way to make it work, and I will do it right by splitting the tractor first and comparing clutch kits till I find the one.
 
Looking at the JD parts catalogs the 2630 and the 2030 two stage clutch (I recently did one with the same transmission and PTO), I see they can use the same clutch discs. I believe the 1"-15 spline, 11" diameter is right for the transmission disc size and the 1-1/2"-23 spline, 9" diameter disc is correct for the PTO disc. The options for the traction disc friction material will be organic (often button type) or woven friction facings, sometimes you have to ask if they only show one or the other.

Where are you located? If you want to wait to order the clutch and time is a factor you may need to talk to a local dealer and see if they stock one or will bring in the ones you might have, that's a big maybe. Or you order the one it should be and go from there if it is not.

The link I gave you above shows you what the JD parts catalog has for the clutch arrangement used in a 2630 with a collar shift transmission and continuous PTO.
 
Thank you. I am located in Central Texas. Well, the tractor is in central Texas, but I am pretty much in the Dallas area. There are John dealers on every corner.

But I think I will take the tractor apart then refer to the information given in this forum to make my purchase. I have a much better idea of what to look for now, thanks to y'all.
 
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